03 honda vtr 1000 clutch

[nook6]

Hi all
i have a vtr 1000 it had been sitting a couple of years got it all going again, but the clutch is only just biting.
I cleaned the clutch plates and changed the fluid in the clutch and bled the clutch system.

the lever feels like the clutch it working when i pull the lever the clutch plates go loose and tighten when i let out the lever. if i rev it up in gear it does move forward but very very slowly (probably less than 1mph).

when i pull the clutch in and put it in gear it sounds and feels like it all goes into gear ok.

Any hints or suggestions greatly appreciated
thank you

Nook6

[Hong Kong Phooey]

I'll presume the fault was there before you went near the clutch plates, but if you cleaned them with something incompatible that's not going to help.

I'll also presume it's not stuck in neutral, and the brakes are not binding, and this is a clutch issue.

Have you changed the oil recently or added anything like friction modifiers to the oil?

If the plates are excessively worn then it won't bite, so is the width of the plates in spec?

The other thing would be loss of clamping force, but for six springs to come loose is a bit improbable, but the push rod that the clutch slave actuates may be sticking so have you looked at that?
____________________
'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[nook6]

[Hong Kong Phooey]

It would have to be very bad for the oil to slip that much with car oil (modified for efficiency and reduced friction).

This is the parts stack for that bike, I was hoping it would show how many friction plates were in use.

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vtr1000f-firestorm-2003-3-englandasv_model6315/partslist/E__0700.html#.YLqkdCLTWDY

The important part is that the friction plates are on both the outer most ends and the middle alternates with friction, steel, friction etc.

If there were some plates missing, or the parts are not fitted like in the diagram then the final drive would would lose power. Might be an idea to double check. Also get hold of the service manual online if you can.

I take it that it's never worked since you've had it? Or you've not noticed slipping in the past that got worse?

Otherwise, measurement of the clutch pack is going to be necessary. Both how much thickness is on the plates and steels, and if in spec (from service manual) and what the gap is when closed to fully open from the pressure plate.
____________________
'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[nook6]

hi and thank you

the clutch was always working fine i had not noticed a problem with it , then a couple of years ago the starter solenoid went wrong then it stood for two years now got it sorted again.

after i done the solenoid and put a new battery on it there was nothing on clutch lever at all so thats then i started checking things, i had a look as the slave cylinder and made sure that was still moving, then i did the clutch fluid and bled that. but there was still nothing on the clutch lever so i then had a look at the clutch plates.

thank you

nook6

[Irezumi]

Not much to go on with a clutch, I'd go back to the start and re do everything by the book.

Id first take off the cover then while you can see the clutch pull the lever and see if it is engaging/disengaging ok/sufficiently. Id also when apart have a look at the plates in relation to where they should be.

Also go back and measure each plate and spring. Then make sure everything is torqued up correctly.

Finally check the lever/resevoir, potentially some air still trapped after bleeding? A possibility the slave cylinder is leaking maybe?

[nook6]

hi thanks all it was my own stupidity lol

when i took out the clutch plates they were all stuck together, when i wiped them over i put then in a pile to go back in and then promptly put them in backwards.
i have now turned them round and its all working fine

[to v or not to v]