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No power AJS Regal Raptor

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H4yburn
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Joined: 04 Jun 2021
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 04 Jun 2021    Post subject: No power AJS Regal Raptor Reply with quote

Hey all, first post on here, so go easy on me Laughing

I've recently acquired an AJS Regal Raptor DD125e-8. Its N/R currently but with it being my first bike after completing CBT, I figured why not get a bit of a project and teach myself the ropes around bikes. Lets face it, its always handy to know!

Working from a combination of Haynes manual, User manual and online resources to try and get this machine into a roadworthy bike.

Have an issue, similar to a post further down this forum where when the key is turned in the ignition I get nothing. No lights.
I do hear a very faint clicking from the throttle every half second, regardless whether the key is turned or not.

I replaced the battery & fuses first of all - no change. Next up i should check ECU & wiring Shocked trouble is I have no idea where the ECU is located - can anyone tell me where its located? I've picked up a digital multimeter for testing the wiring but I've no idea what I'm doing there. Youtube tutorials needed! Any tips?

I have spotted under the seat a green and a black&white wire and according to what i have, this is the negative & ignition wires. They're attached to nothing. One has a sleeve, one has the connector. It feels
like they shouldn't be open! again, any ideas?

Thanks for reading, appreciate any advice.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:26 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd get used to comparing the wiring diagram to the loom Smile Have you got a specific Haynes manual or just the "Chinese 125" generic one?

With regards to the loose wires normal practice is to connect like coloured wires together. BTW no one here will complain if you post up some photos Very Happy
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 12:23 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here’s a couple pics
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give you points for a pic but some more to give context would help.
IF say Honda colour code conventions are used as some are on chinese bikes, then a Green ( ground) and Black/White (ignition related) would be a starting guess.

More and better pics would help us make more and better guesses
Pics can also avoid a tedious, long winded back and forth of questions
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 20:12 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

you did charge the battery when you replaced it?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:31 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen B&W as a kill switch line and assuming Green is ground then the photo might me some unconnected cut-out like a kickstand switch Thinking

The background is more revealing though. Can we assume - and forgive the heavy technical term - that this bike has been "fucked with" ? Wink
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, its the generic Haynes 125 Chinese manual I have.
It does appear to have been fucked with, it’s had heated grips added previously.

Re the battery, I tested with a multimeter and it’s fine. Removed the CDI, ran some tests and that seems fine so I guess my next checks are the grounds and testing wires for breaks. .

Re the wires I found under the seat, there we’re another 2 of the same wrapped inside bit of insulating tape. According to the manual. It’s the kill switch.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 01:14 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adding heated grips isnt what I'd call fucking with a bike.

Fiddling with stuff without really knowing what you're doing
and how the bike works is more like fucking with a bike.
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
Adding heated grips isnt what I'd call fucking with a bike.

Fiddling with stuff without really knowing what you're doing
and how the bike works is more like fucking with a bike.


Maybe I misunderstood the context of what “fucking with a bike” is. I meant that because They don’t come as standard on this bike so I’d say that yes, it’s been fucked with. The wires being disconnected- also fucking with it.

Correct, fiddling with stuff without knowing what I’m doing is also fucking with a bike. But how else would I get to know about it? Surely trying to learn is better than going on the road with zero idea?

Fucking with a bike has taught me how to change fuses, battery, spark plugs, how to locate & test a CDI, how to remove a fuel tank, where to find the grounds on a bike and ensure they’re clean & secure this weekend.

It’s teaching me what to look for in XYZ scenarios, should they occur on the road.

I’m not daft mate, I know my limits and know when it needs to go to a pro but I’d just like to try myself first.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 10:17 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give the location of those wires, my first guess is that they're for the rear brake light switch.

Anyway, before worrying too much about ignition, let's focus on the complete lack of power to anything. You say you checked fuses - were any of them blown, and did you also check the 30A fuse on the starter relay (assuming this is an electric start bike).

Also, ignition wiring. Is the ignition switch even plugged in, have the ignition switch wires chafed on the headstock or been chewed up by the steering lock?

As for comments of it being fucked with - it's a 125. They get owned by a succession of 17 year olds with more confidence than skill, and no money. This leads to lots of interesting bodges to either keep it running, try to make it go faster, or fit questionable accessories.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:18 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Total electric failure? I always start by looking at the neutral light. It's about the simplest circuit in the electrical system, possibly even over the horn given the way I've seen Triumph do it Smile

I try and break things down into chains - one link broken then the whole lot fails - so for the neutral light on a simple 125:

Battery, fuse box, ignition switch, clock bulb, neutral switch, engine (i.e. frame ground) and obviously all the wiring in between.

So with a mutimeter black lead on the negative terminal of the battery check all the above points with the red lead for 12 volts.
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 21:06 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evening all,

Wee update - I now have power. Neutral light is coming on.
I'm not entirely sure but went back to the main fuse attached to the starter relay (as Robby suggested) - the fuse 100% replaced. Its only a 15A though - Not a 30. Anyway, inspected the fuse unit and the wire that runs from there to starter is coming away a bit - see pic 1.
I recall when I changed the fuse on saturday, what I can only describe as a pin that someone would use when tailoring a suit fell out. I didnt think anything of it, so i twisted the wire attached to the spade connector and we now have a neutral light but its intermittent - I'm gonna replace this.
Doesnt start, can hear the starter ticking so I'm going to do spark plugs tomorrow.

Robby, the wires were under the seat. Haynes manual says these are for engine stop switch. The wiring I found on motorcycle-manual (no idea how reliable) says its for rear brake light.

Hopefully getting closer to at least getting her running. First step!
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Robby
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sort out that wire properly and it should work. Starter motor relay ticking/clicking noise means either a flat battery, or a really shit connection.
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 07:44 - 08 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Battery is brand new. Tested it and its gone to 11V (because I'd left the key in the ignition overnight on Saturday - doh) I'll trickle charge to the full 12.5v and see if that gets her going. Picking up spark plugs today, will replace them. also the spade connection (if thats what its even called Laughing )Also its about £15 for a starter relay so I think I'll replace that. Fair bit of corrosion on it when I had it off.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 08 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start solenoids always have corrosion on the outside. Not sure why, they just tend to look crusty.

As a rule, I don't recommend mixing servicing and fault finding, or you can't be sure what the problem was afterwards. If you change 4 things and the problem goes away, you don't know what causes the problem. This is particularly annoying if some of those things were expensive, the problem comes back in a few weeks.

I would change the whole connector on the starter solenoid there. If one of the wires is coming apart, the other may not be far behind and the connector may have been damaged by heat. Be sure to use the correct type of crimps with the correct crimping pliers for a professional job that will last.
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 08 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:

As a rule, I don't recommend mixing servicing and fault finding, or you can't be sure what the problem was afterwards. If you change 4 things and the problem goes away, you don't know what causes the problem. This is particularly annoying if some of those things were expensive, the problem comes back in a few weeks.


Makes sense!

I'll be sure to replace the whole connector, hopefully that's the definite cause! I guess i'll know soon!

Thanks again, appreciate it.
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H4yburn
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 08 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:

I would change the whole connector on the starter solenoid there. If one of the wires is coming apart, the other may not be far behind and the connector may have been damaged by heat. Be sure to use the correct type of crimps with the correct crimping pliers for a professional job that will last.

Replaced the spark plugs.
Got a box of female spade connectors and a crimp, did that and we now have lift off.

Thanks again to everyone who offered some assistance. It’s appreciated.
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