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ER6f 2008 Excessive fuel useage 12mpg

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: ER6f 2008 Excessive fuel useage 12mpg Reply with quote

The ER6 has gained a problem since the rebuild, it is only doing 12 or so MPG.

I've connected it up to an OBD reader and there are no faults.

I've checked the TPS and the voltage is out by 0.2v but the resistance on the actual TPS is within range which points at the ignition.

The exhaust sensor 02 sensor is being changed as it's 50K old but no fault on the OBD.

None of the throttle body sensors are available seperately.

So what do people suggest?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well... I can't be *very* helpful, but my first thought is that it must be something big because a 1-5mpg difference might be an annoyance, a 20mpg difference might cause some concern, but you're talking about a quarter of the fuel range or a quadrupled fuel consumption with that bike... Yikes.

The only thing I can think of is to check connections to any and all sensors on the bike. Sorry, you said it has a new O2 sensor. Have you tested it's resistance? Don't forget that bikes don't actually comply with the OBDII standard yet, so are variable on the results you get from diagnostics.

Apparently there is some property of the engine that needs to be read to meet the official definition of the spec that is difficult on bikes due to the high revving nature of the engines. I suspect this means in practice that the implementation of the spec is variable...
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:04 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a Healtech OBD so compatability isn't an issue.

o2 sensor isn't replaced yet, waiting for it to turn up. Old one is within spec.

With an o2 eliminator it's still rich which again points at the ignition.

Bike normally does 60ish mpg.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

One would guess on a fuel injected bike that it will just misfire if there is an ignition fault. The injection system won't compensate for something it doesn't know about, so surely this points to the ECU getting bum signals? Either that or both injectors have worn to the point they are just pumping a tonne of fuel into the engine? That sounds implausible, and a duff ECU would just stop the bike working, which leads back to sensor inputs again *shrug*.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't it run completely differently if it was using that much fuel? Wouldn't it bog, or stall a lot? My question is simply what are the other symptoms other than massively increased fuel consumption. I won't have any cures to suggest but I'm just genuinely curious.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:23 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it stupid to suggest a leak?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I was thinking - but wouldn't it stink all the time? Maybe in hot weather it would evaporate a lot quicker and so not smell as much because it's not around long enough to.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:38 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Is it stupid to suggest a leak?


Or someone is nicking it somehow, either to use in their own vehicle or to fuck with you?

Was it parked in direct sun? It's been hell of a hot the last few days and I've seen bikes empty the tank through fuel expanding and contracting in the heat and managing to find its way out through an overflow. Admittedly that was on a carbed bike with an ordinary petcock which had been left on.

Have you checked your airbox and engine oil to make sure it's not leaking through somewhere and left you with a sump full of petrol?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Is it stupid to suggest a leak?


Or someone is nicking it somehow, either to use in their own vehicle or to fuck with you?

Was it parked in direct sun? It's been hell of a hot the last few days and I've seen bikes empty the tank through fuel expanding and contracting in the heat and managing to find its way out through an overflow. Admittedly that was on a carbed bike with an ordinary petcock which had been left on.

Have you checked your airbox and engine oil to make sure it's not leaking through somewhere and left you with a sump full of petrol?


^^That. I'd lift the dipstick and see if it stinks of fuel.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:43 - 05 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be able to smell 12mpg.

I vote fouled injector.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 01:39 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

ECU codes? Heck, I'd take a look at the plugs first - need to ascertain whether excess fuel is going through the engine or leaking out the bike.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 01:41 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Should be able to smell 12mpg.

I vote fouled injector.


Only smell it, I would've thought you'd be able to see it, either filling the sump, pouring out of the exhaust or leaving a big stain on the floor, hell, my Corvette gets better consumption than that, booting it around town!

Such a dramatic drop must result in some kind of running fault, I don't see how you could be dumping that much fuel into the engine and it not have any effect on the way it performs.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
Such a dramatic drop must result in some kind of running fault, I don't see how you could be dumping that much fuel into the engine and it not have any effect on the way it performs.
That's my thinking, yes.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

No real running faults just a very lumpy power delivery. Idle had to burned from 1200-1600 but didn't seem fast
Stinks of petrol, soots the plugs and the end of the exhaust is black after 50 miles. It is VERY obvious it is running rich.

No faults reported on the OBD from the injectors but I had thought about those as well.

In regards to the throttle body area nothing is available separately except the injectors so the fast idle throttle servo and TPS cannot be replaced you need to buy the complete throttle body assembly at £862.


It could be an earthing problem between the ECU and the battery but this is unlikely as everything else is good but if it is this it will need a new loom or some serious messing around rewiring.

Checked the tank size which is 15.5 litres and its getting 50 miles per tank so 14.6mpg.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:15 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checked the loom and it's all good.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

have you got the old lambda sensor? The ECU doesn't normally identify a fault with those and if it goes open circuit it will assume too much oxygen and pump loads of fuel in to compensate.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
have you got the old lambda sensor? The ECU doesn't normally identify a fault with those and if it goes open circuit it will assume too much oxygen and pump loads of fuel in to compensate.


The old one is still fitted, waiting for the new one from Kawasaki as no one keeps them on the shelf.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:44 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering if the fast idle (thermo-wax) valve was sticking, and I recall you changed the coolant recently. Air lock? I’ve no idea if this is feasible though.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:55 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd have thought the lambda sensor would only have a moderate effect: it only controls the closed-loop idling and cruising Thinking

Can you get any of the sensor output from the OBD2 tester? I have an app that links to my Bluetooth dongle and I can read out things like manifold pressure... maybe one of the other sensors the ECU uses is wonky and that's throwing out the fuel table.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:17 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I was wondering if the fast idle (thermo-wax) valve was sticking, and I recall you changed the coolant recently. Air lock? I’ve no idea if this is feasible though.


This is a possible as I can't remember it cycling.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 21:24 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
I'd have thought the lambda sensor would only have a moderate effect: it only controls the closed-loop idling and cruising Thinking


Which is why I'm leaning towars the ecu.

Easy-X wrote:
Can you get any of the sensor output from the OBD2 tester? I have an app that links to my Bluetooth dongle and I can read out things like manifold pressure... maybe one of the other sensors the ECU uses is wonky and that's throwing out the fuel table.


Mine reads everything, intake pressure was 102kpa, inlet temp 25degrees, coolant as you'd expect, o2 senser within values etc.


Last edited by sickpup on 22:05 - 06 Jun 2021; edited 1 time in total
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

TLDR

Old British army trick.

Sit the beast on a sheet of 'clean' cardboard.
Engine cold and off for an hour.

Then engine running.

Look for wet patches of those stains that dried petrol leaves on stuff.

12MPG sounds like a leak.

If it's leaking onto something warm it will evaporate rather than drip.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
12MPG sounds like a leak.


It isn't.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 06 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
£862.


sweet mother of yahweh
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Robby
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 07 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the plugs on one cylinder is fouled, I would be looking at the injector for that cylinder. If it's both cylinders, then something is telling the injectors to squirt in too much fuel. Are both plugs fouled?
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