Another newbie trying to get squared away.

[Mr tiddles]

[Ayrton]

The YBR seems prone to rust, especially those footpeg brackets. Wouldn't be difficult to remove them for a bit of paint though.

May as well do a full oil change and check the filter too. They may have lied about the service.

[Evil Hans]

[jeffyjeff]

That missing hose connection is for an Air Induction System (AIS). Basically, it passes filtered air to the catalytic converter (in the muffler) to help burn off more hydrocarbons. There is a reed valve under the tank that connects to the other end of the hose on your bike. Opposite that reed valve, a connection to the air box.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51252775227_e5acf1b92d_c.jpg
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History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[rpsmith79]

With regards to checking the oil, make sure you are doing it corrently, as some bikes/manufacturers do it differently

It is usually done with the bike upright on leval gound (not on the side stand), but some require the dipstip screwed in, other you need to unscrew, clean, and then just dip it (no screwing), so worthwhile checking the correct way to check the YBR

And if you do need to top it up, ensure you use the correct grade motorcycle specific oil (not car engine oil)
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Current Bike: Honda CG125 ES4 // Honda CB600FS Hornet // Triumph Street Triple R

[c_dug]

On a 125 I'd be tempted to do an oil change right off the bat anyway. It's likely only going to take a litre and so will cost sod all for a bit of peace of mind.

It's a pretty simple process even for a newbie: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmazZJXyDkM

The bike looks alright for a smidge over a grand, keep half an eye on the swingarm directly behind the tyre - it just looks to be surface rust at the moment but could get worse if you ride through a salty winter.
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I am a bellend, I am a man of constant sorrow, I am a gummy bear, I am a rock.

[Mr tiddles]

Later in the evening when there was less traffic I rolled the bike on the level pavement to check the oil it was there, it was obvioulsy new oil as well so a bit harder to see, so it would seem some of it was serviced before sale as they said.

The rust I was most thoughtful over was a large patch on the front suspension fork. I tried them and the rust does not go down into the seals and I see no oil lines after letting them out and they did not collapse down or quickly spring back up, so just a clean up may suffice?

Still not taken it out though, since it has arrived it has rained constantly . New rider who has never done manual before + no mirrors + rain + inner city = No (to me at least)

The mirrors arrived as well, the left one goes in, turns out the right socket has been completely threaded, looks like they had just yanked out the mirror, so will have to buy some more for the end of the handlebar.

[Ayrton]

If it doesn't hit the seals then I cant see it causing a problem, but you'd want to clean it and get something on there to stop it rusting further. You can get a set of forks brand new for £70 on ebay though so it's cheap enough and fairly easy to do if you ever decide to change them.
Also keep an eye on the exhaust rust, it seems very common for them to rust away.

Got to love all those LED lights though

[Nobby the Bastard]

Get some ACF50 on those forks. They are absolutely shocking. I'd be looking at replacing the stanchions as soon as possible.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Keithy]

[Mr tiddles]

Well I finally took my first 15m ride, thought I would relay the next chapter of the story as it may amuse some of you.

Had to slowly jimmy it out the entry I was using to protect it from the rain. Then very gingerly walk it backwards down the slope onto the road before awkwardly straitening it off at the side.

Started it, played with the gears, could not get it into neutral. Stalled it, played some more with the gears still could not get it into neutral. 5m later I decided to just try and move off....stalled it.

So I acted like I meant to do that and went back to playing with the gears then tried to move off a second time, jumped forward a little...then stalled. To be honest here with the jump I am glad it did :s

Third time! This time I made a wobbly move in the right direction and got going, took my amazing first gear prowess and went to a nearby dead end road 30 seconds away. Played with gears again, still can not get it in neutral, stalled it. There is pattern forming here.

Restarted went round the block a couple of times in first, then got all crazy and did it again in second. Tearing up the neighbourhood at 10mph, one women gave me nod, she digs it.

Hit third gear first by forgetting to let go of the throttle and then at too slow a speed, then put on too much throttle, got wobbly, but managed to stabilised. Now I am at an incredible 15mph. slowed down a bit for some downshift to second, let the clutch go a little too fast went umpfh. Another lap round in the block with a smoother up and down to third and second before taking a right to stall it going up my driveway hill, got off to push it up with an audience of some giggling kiddies. Discovered I have no issue getting it intro neutral with the side stand out, put for some reason can not do it while it is up.

And that as they say is the end of that. Hopefully my bumbling 15 minute escapade amused someone.

[Evil Hans]

[jeffyjeff]

Helps to shift transmission into neutral while you are still rolling.
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History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[Ayrton]

The mirror threads on mine stripped out too, so I bought another master cylinder, which is better than getting bar end mirrors I'd say. They are fairly cheap too. Cant say I remember them being left hand thread though, I'm sure it was just a normal thread.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313544846053?hash=item4900baaae5:g:xFgAAOSwidxgr8VO

[jeffyjeff]

[Mr tiddles]

I have it booked in at a garage, wont ride it till the forks are sorted then.

Garage says it will maybe take 0.5 - 1 hr to check the bike over properly, £15 for front brakes, £70 for suspension each side, £5 for the exhaust hose plus £30/hr labour.

I reckon my final bike costs will be such that, I might as well have paid the £1800 price tag at a dealer! And now I was just made unemployed

[A100man]

Ideally replace those stanchions but you could clean up the rusted area only with some emery tape and and paint with hammerite or similar metal paint since the damage is not in the swept area. With the rust out the way you can judge the condition better or post a pic for us.
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[ThunderGuts]

[Mr tiddles]

Well the next part of my first bike chapter has progressed as I have gotten it down to the garage to be looked at the verdict is as follows:

They are suspicious as to whether it was actually given at full service properly as the spark plug is seized, and the chain and sprocket is not new.

They suggested with the way the left foot peg is damaged that is has been thrashed about a bit as well.

Parts

Front suspension is bad as I already new, parts + labour £180
Front pads as I knew but the disc is also shot £50
Rear suspension is rusted and pitted with no oil at all £50 - £150
Missing hose £5
Rear brake is as I suspected as shot as in barley works at all £50
There is no pin in the throttle handle
Front and ear tires are cracked
Light wiring has been bodged and the spring for the brakes is too loose to activate the brake lights properly.

Labour for the rest is £30 an hour.

Based upon the above I would say I may have been 'done' by the seller or they were just ignorant.

Total cost based on estimate + £285 - £385

This brings the total expected purchase cost of the bike to north of £1300 - £1400 which is still a little below dealers local private sellers. But I have not accounted for the cost of replacing the tyres.

[to v or not to v]

to be honest, thats about par for the course for a learner bike a few years old.
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current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.

[WD Forte]

That pipe is usually connected to the exhaust for EGR purposes.

( Ahh! just seen Jeffys post.... wot he said!)

I suspect someone has put an older carbed model zorst on it
Shouldn't be a problem just blank it off and tuck it away
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

Those forks look shocking!
I often fix a guys 2010 ybr and while it has plenty of age related shabbiness it has nothing like that
the lower yoke on the Rh leg looks like it has a crack or is it just muck?
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

Closer look at lower yoke clamp area, crack or crap?
I'd also want to get those rusty exhaust bolts out ASAP and fit M8 stainless with lashings of copaslip
to prevent future arseache.
Getting a YBR exhaust off is a 10 minute job when nothing is seized
Otherwise it can be a total arseache.

Dump the shitty led add ons, they're useless
The nacelle look like it's taken a clout or three hence the cable tie

https://imgur.com/xnd8d43.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[Mr tiddles]

Well my first chapter continues bike is down the garage and they have started work.

Turns the front forks have rusted through and seized, the yoke has seized along with the springs and inner sleeves so the suspension will not get full travel. So after spending an hour to just remove the spring the garage thinks it is going to have to redo the whole lot. The part itself is only £15 more but it is the day of labour spent on it so far...

They have already had it two days, and I lost my income too. It hurts . Let's hope the bill is not as high as I fear it will be.

[Bhud]

Sorry to hear this bad news.

Obviously, the garage will be able to sort these issues out for you.
However, in the long run it may be worth thinking about having a go yourself, getting some manuals, watching a few videos, etc. It saves a lot of money. With older bikes, there's always something that needs doing, but once it's done, it's well worth it. Rusted, seized up forks simply won't work - these things need to be addressed and it isn't roadworthy until it's done one way or the other.

What you've got there (until it's completely sorted out) is a project bike rather than something you could reasonably rely on as a means of basic transport. Project bikes are never cheap. If the bill is getting a bit out of control, it might be worth letting the garage know, and getting their advice. Replacing all the fork internals with good parts from a reputed supplier is one possibility. Alternatively, getting a used but good set of forks and yokes might work out to be more cost-effective.