Stuck bolt

[Pete.]

Threadlock needs around 400 degrees C to get it to release. That's not quite glowing dull red (metals all start to glow at 525degC, called the Draper point) so if you make the fastener glow any at all that'll be more than hot enough to break the rust bond and the threadlock.

Being a stressed fastener you'd be best off not making it unnecessary hot.

Of course one you have one released a few judicious clouts on the bracket should turn it a little and release the other.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[bikenut]

What's the smallest tip you have, 1, 2, 5 ?

A 7 may be toooooo big.

If you can see the part of the hub where the bolt screws in, try warming ( warming ! Just warming ! ) that area and trying the bolt.

Warming and sudden chilling cycles can help.

An assistant would be good to hand the torch to, fire watch etc.. have a bucket of water handy.

Try and set up a breaker bar, long extension and tool bit so ALL the torque goes into the torques bolt with everything being in line, so tool bit does not go "out of line" thus buggering the "teeth" in the torques bolt and then rounding them off.

An axle stand to support the extension near the breaker bar, with the stand acting as a "fulcrum or pivot point" will help all the torque go into the bolt head squarely and in line.

Again an assistant will help.

Take your time, get stuff set up and use isaccs help ( gravity ).

Good luck and consider a freeze spray...

Don't round off the torques hole and drive.

Ps, is one bolt out ? The caliper/pad carrier could be tapped gently round a bit anticlockwise to encourage the stuck bolt out, but may not be possible...just tap gently as the casting can be FRAGILE !

Post a picture before you go in guns blazing and wait for a reply....

Which side of the car is this on and why do you need to remove the caliper carrier, you need to take the disc off ?

Sometimes removing the disc from the hub plate can be very problematic due to corrosion, sometimes needing some " violence"....

Have you tried giving the bolt head some taps with a brass drift and suitable sized ( small first ! ) hammer ?

Just don't break anything !
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nuts about bikes

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

Thanks guys, got it off. Heat the bolt up somewhere between dark and cherry red, then let it cool down a good bit then yanked on the breaker bar. Got both of them off. Of all the calipers only the front-left gave me an issue.

Replaced both bolts with new ones I got off ebay in a kit along with the two torx head pins that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket.
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PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U.

[UncleFester]

I'd run the new bolts through the threads back and forth a few times and then clean out with either compressed air or a pipe cleaner brush and then put new bolts in with a dab of threadlock and at the correct torque.
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Module 1 and 2 passed - October 2014. Happy owner of a 2017 Z1000SX, ex owner of a YBR125 / CB500 / VFR800.