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What have you done to your bike today?

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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 18 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blurredman wrote:

I think you think i'm talking about cars which have computers and can run off various grades of fuel without any intervention. The computer does it all.

I've used various grades in my car which is carbed and does not have ECU, and 95 or not, E10 has a significant impact on the idle quality and a very noticable lack of power. Infact it was crippling- the car runs a bit lean anyway.
It was very interesting when I first experienced this (E10 is much cheaper abroad than E5, I was being cheap Laughing - next fill up with E5 the vehicle returned to normal operation).

The fuel contained is still 95 ron sure, but from what I could research there's now up to 10% less of the 'actual' fuel, which didn't seem to make much of a difference when actual easily 'combustable fuel' was at 95% (e5), which is up to 5% Ethanol (most of the time 3%). I suppose you could think about it like changing pre-mix on a 2t from 50:1 to 30:1 (there's only like 1.5% less petrol) but it's perfectly usable and safe and not too lean.

But if 90-95% true petrol of a fluid that is easily combustable then it's going to run lean, and more than reasonable.
When the forecorts start changin 95 to e10, i'll definately be experimenting with the above as it'll be cheaper in the long run than buying 98. There's been no need for me to until the near future.

In places of E10 it is recommended by manufacturers to increase jet sizes.
But in the end: I'll have to try it out and adapt Laughing Laughing


Or am I totally wrong? I mean, ethenol does burn of course, but not as well as petrol. It made an effect on my car, and then after 7 hours of burning it off and replacing with e5 95, all was grand. Maybe it was just shitty ukrainian fuel. I'll give it another go when it's in the petrol stations.


E10 will resist knock more than E5, you could try advancing the timing a few degrees first before mucking around with jets. But if it is running lean as confirmed by exhaust gas analysis then you need to sort that first anyhow.

I suppose you're running a relatively low compression ratio and it's not turbocharged, with more advance you'll make more power.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 19 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rode it home Wub
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 19 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:


You're very much one of those "embrace the sickness" type people Laughing Here's hoping nothing falls off on the way home Wink
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 19 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does that mean?
Never heard that expression before.
Laughing
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:14 - 19 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellkat wrote:
What does that mean?
Never heard that expression before.
Laughing


Immediately revving the bollox off it is not what I'd expect from a decent and upstanding citizen Tut Tut

...at least let it warm up a bit first!
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 19 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing
Ohhhhh I see.
Laughing

Nahhhh, the vid was done outside my house, after I got home.
(I wouldn't have been so gauche as to do a excited-girly stylee video in front of the shop where they fixed it. Shocked )

Crikey ... give me some credit for being *slightly* cool Rolling Eyes Laughing )

So it was warmed up already, cos I had ridden it back from Greenwich to ma hoose by then.

In fact the hottie at the shop, who reminded me strangely of our very own Grrr666 (same chin *wibble* ) warmed it up for me.

... showed me how the choke was a bit dodgy, rode it up and down to check it was going to keep ticking over, and all the time I was just watching thinking "Nice arse, bit skinny, but worth a perve"

Choke, what choke?
Laughing
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:36 - 19 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah so warmed up already... the bike that is Wink I'll let you off then.
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om15
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 20 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sold it. Very, very reluctantly, had my last ride on my Baker Express Interceptor 650 yesterday. Sadly my knees have now reached 70 years old and they found it rather hard going, it is quite a heavy bike and just pushing around was a pain.
It is a shame because it was a great bike, however I still have the Himalayan to potter around on.
Not sure what I will get next, maybe another Street Twin or something lighter.

Knees can be a bugger.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 21 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:


E10 will resist knock more than E5, you could try advancing the timing a few degrees first before mucking around with jets. But if it is running lean as confirmed by exhaust gas analysis then you need to sort that first anyhow.

I suppose you're running a relatively low compression ratio and it's not turbocharged, with more advance you'll make more power.



Agreed- definately the first thing to do- it's free! Cool
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Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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hellkat
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PostPosted: 11:54 - 22 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhhhhrgh, I think I have to faff about with a V62 before I can properly cane the GSX, FFS Rolling Eyes LOL
Buggre.
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Brava210
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 24 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attempted to repair a cracked panel..........and fucked it to a stump

Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 25 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did a bit of mild porting to the cylinder head of my project bike.

The idea is to put back in any horses it's lost over the years, and maybe a few more. It's getting fresh(er) valves and valve springs, from Germany. It also has lighter aftermarket ignition advancer springs (from Z-Power) a custom 2-into-1 intake (which I've heavily flowed), and this mildly ported head. The porting I've done (just with a Dremel) is only for flow, not volume, and it's just taking out hard angles and casting flaws, because the standard cam is going back in. I haven't found anyone who makes a performance cam for this bike, although there are performance valves available (which I'm not getting, as they're very expensive and as far as I can see they also increase the size of the combustion chamber with their concave faces).

https://i.ibb.co/mGtxFrD/porting.png
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 12:47 - 26 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Changed out the brake fluid on my YBR. Two years since purchased new, but 2015 model year (old dealer stock). The fluid did not look this bad in the sight glass; I was surprised when it came out of the caliper looking like tea left overnight in the pot. 4,315 miles on the bike when I performed this service.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51272383804_e3753540c4_c.jpg

Brake reservoir says use DOT3 or DOT4. Did an internet query; DOT4 has a higher boiling point, but higher hydroscopic properties (absorbs water easier), DOT 3 lower boiling point (401F vs 446F) but has longer lifespan in service due to lower water absorption. My single piston YBR front brake got new DOT3.

New brake fluid resembles light salad oil in the tube during brake bleed. I was pleased to see Yamaha put in a small stainless deflector in the bottom of the reservoir to prevent squirting during the brake bleed procedure.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 26 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brake master cylinder replaced, on project bike.

There was absolutely nothing wrong with the old one, except that it didn't activate the brake light when you pressed the brake. This is how it was designed, which is great, but it didn't feel safe when I took it for its MOT. So I bought a new brake master cylinder, which had a switch fitted. It's considerably smaller, and the reservoir fills up with seemingly just a few drops, but I've hooked it up, tested it and it all works. The switch is wired in to close the same circuit as the rear brake switch. The brake does work, but at the angle of the handlebar, the fluid level reads minimal even though it's brimmed on one side.

https://i.ibb.co/SQ9QBJz/new-master-cylinder.png


Cylinder head coming along nicely. Valves lapped in, residue of lapping compound pressure-washered off, new valve stem steals fitted, etc. New manifold gaskets made (out of the proper stuff - Flexoid). They're matched to the cylinder head (rounded/flared out at the inrakes) and to the manifold.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:48 - 27 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the old master meant for a pressure switch mid way down the brake pipe?
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 02:19 - 27 Jun 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Is the old master meant for a pressure switch mid way down the brake pipe?


Hahaha no. The old master is included just to be a star in the photo to show old vs new. It isn't connected and it's heading for the bin. The brake light activation switch is connected to the new brake lever, as per modern bikes. It doesn't need the brake to actually work, or for there to be any fluid in the reservoir, to activate the brake light. There's DOT4 in there now, and the brake works, but all this was just to make me feel better about the BMW drivers and such behind me when I rode the bike.

A couple of years ago I tailed a group of classic Kawasaki riders. The one at the rear had this model of bike. It sounded awesome and I wished I had one. Then I almost ran into him when he slowed for a roundabout Laughing Just because his rear brake light hadn't lit and I was on a familiar road and was just on autopilot admiring his bike.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 08 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Listed the 250 Tuesday evening, sold it today. Even quicker sale than the 500, bloke just asked if it was available, was it reliable, and would I deliver. Yes, yes and maybe. I thought he'd want to come over and view the bike, but no, he had "cash waiting, when could I drop it off?". Just dropped it off, cash was waiting, no haggling, no inspection other than checking the fuel tap and the steering lock. Weird.

Anyhoo, back to shopping, before the good lady wife fills the garage space Smile
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 15:14 - 09 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decided sod it, took the valve cover (which is also the rocker arm retainer) off the head. Spotted the problem immediately.

It's kinda hard to set the valve clearance when the button on top of the valve stem decides to part company with the rest of the valve stem. It's sat all nice and shiny by the gold head nut. Cock. Explains why I couldn't get it set for love nor fucking money.
https://i.imgur.com/gxsIparl.jpg

Trying to get the spec off the importer, as I know they're out of stock of, well, everything, at the moment. It's a KW157FMI engine, so I may just grab a GS/GN/GZ set of valves and hope they're not EN. Also get to brush up on DIY valve spring compressors.
I'm gonna chuck a new cam (longer duration?) and rockers n while I'm in there, this one has evidently been starved of oil at some point. Got a 150 kit sitting around, will chuck that on at the same time.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:10 - 09 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

On spring compressors I'd have to say a purpose made tool makes the whole operation a doddle. Well worth buying/borrowing one to save some swearing.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 09 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with Easy, it's a PITA bodging it when a cheap tool is around £10 and makes it simple.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 10 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hadn't realised they were so cheap. Last one I played with was on a mates insane V8 and the pricetag made me wince, but thinking about it, that bloke's motor was the thick end of £50K (NRE Twin turbo V8), so he's not shy about buying shiny tools.
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wr6133
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PostPosted: 14:27 - 10 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cheap ones do tend to bend a little after multiple uses but can be bashed straight again. For home use they are fine.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 15:33 - 10 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

wr6133 wrote:
The cheap ones do tend to bend a little after multiple uses but can be bashed straight again. For home use they are fine.

I've done/pulled valves 3 times in my life before. This is the first time on my own vehicle, and first on a bike, so even a cheapy will likely outlast me.
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 22:56 - 10 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost done rebuilding dr650 swingarm + linkages. All powdercoated + new bearings/seals.

https://puu.sh/HTHZH.jpg[
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Simon13245
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PostPosted: 23:43 - 11 Jul 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I installed those tank grips by "Eazigrip". They were not tailored for NSR 125, but they work just fine. It made a huge difference for me. I am finally not sliding around while braking Smile
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