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Cheap 50cc can’t get it to run

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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 16:59 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The collets should be removable.so that you can check the flatness of.the head
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 17 Jun 2016
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked with a steel ruler, looks flat to me, the outer section is slightly deeper than the inner part but that seal on the outer edge has been fine so far.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 17:25 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using a ruler won't work.
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just took a mirror down sat it flush on it and ran my thinnest feeler gauge all round in every angle, seems flat to me, is that how I should do it?? Thanks again
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 17:52 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds okay.
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any other ideas? I have to buy a complete kit of gaskets just to get the one I need, so may try and buy some o-rings from somewhere else as I think these ones are just to weak or something, there’s literally no reason I can find why they are going, I checked the thermostat and that works fine, something isn’t right somewhere
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

At the risk of insulting your intelligence...and maybe i've just misunderstood...but you do know there's another gasket in the smaller circle..? With four tabs/circles sticking out?
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 22:18 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Yeah look at the two pics I’ve posted the o-ring Oates is the one that came out.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, yeah i saw but i only see one black outer gasket...one already in there, and one fucked one. I don't see the inner one with the four tab bits...?
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 22:28 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it’s different it doesn’t have the 4 tabs they are all separate, so basically the kit is 6 o-rings:

1 outer seal (big one)
1 inner seal (the one around the piston that keeps going)
4 small seals (that are next to the head bolts)

Hope that’s what you meant?
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are all seals.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, i see, that makes sense. Yes, that is what i meant. Fair enough.

The only other thing i can think that it might be is the wrong torque setting. The 18Nm seems unusually low...is that what it says in the manual?

Edit: Also, you can buy just the inner ring (with the tabs) on its own...i'd go for a genuine Peugeot too, at least to eliminate the chance of that gasket being a cheapo one.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401582731923
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found this, there’s no manual as such is a 70cc upgrade kit. But the way the seal is flattened I’m wondering if it’s too tight??

The all in one seals are for the newer model heads, they have an indentation for the joint seals unlike mine unfortunately!
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't have thought so, tbh. How trustworthy is your torque wrench? Smile

You mention that it's a 70cc upgrade, could it be that the gasket you've used is indeed a cheap one, and it just can't handle the extra capacity?
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 02 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque wrench is only a Draper expert one, not a strap-on but never had any complaints.

I’ve ordered some VITON Rubber O-Rings the same size, which will hopefully be stronger and take more temp, not sure what the current o-ring is made from but should really last longer than a couple of minutes.

I was literally sat with the cap off the rad from cold letting the bubbles come out, it had stopped yet water still not that hot, I picked the bike up and it gushed out a load of water and started smoking out of the radiator cap, then cut out, obviously wouldn’t start again! Did exactly the same the time before.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 12:56 - 04 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the gasket blew and pressurised into the cooling system, blowing the coolant/exhaust fumes out. All i can suggest is try the new gaskets and see what happens. Good luck. Thumbs Up
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 20:24 - 04 Sep 2021    Post subject: Update and next issue! Reply with quote

So it’s running and we’ve had a good half an hour in the field, the new seals that I got are noticeably much better quality and I also tightened the head to 20nm.

Next problems ha ha

The odd time the bike stalled while my son was riding it, one of the first times he’s been on a 2 wheeler, anyway it all of a sudden had a reverse! I stopped it put it in neutral then it was fine, but not sure why it did that?? I’ve changed the gearbox oil for fresh, happened 3 times for some reason?

Also the battery isn’t charging and the only electrical component that seams to work other than the engine is the horn!

The oil pump isn’t connected either so I just used the fuel from my strimmer but was thinking around 40-1 for the future?
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 04 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to say I admire your enthusiasm Smile

20Nm sounds a bit low for head bolts, I'd check to see if that's correct Thinking

With regards to "reverse gear" probably there was some kickback when starting. 2-stroke motors have a symmetrical operation - they're entirely reversible - unlike 4-stroke that can't run backwards. (Whether they can run efficiently in reverse is a separate matter!)

Battery charging issue will most likely be the stator, magneto or whatever the bike has or the rectifier/regulation system.

You have no oil pump or the oil pump isn't being fed oil? Bear in mind that these little pumps aren't intended to run dry. 40-1 is perfectly fine for a normal engine but you might consider dropping to 32-1 or maybe 20-1 as it's a fresh head you're breaking in.
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 21:25 - 07 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been riding the bike a bit more, seems to run fine and good fun across the field for my son, he’s a bit off riding my CRF450 but he’s learning!

Still the odd time, it will struggle to find neutral then literally set off in reverse, what would cause this?? It doesn’t happen all the time but shouldn’t happen at all??

I’ve got the back light/brake light to work, however one of the back indicators come on with the rear light and the indicators just light up not flash, also the come on with the headlight switch not the indicator switch ha ha.

Anyway I’m more bothered about the gears and it reversing??
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 02:08 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like the timing is too advanced. If the engines only just ticking over, and the ignition fires too early, it'll send the piston back down before it reaches TDC, causing it to run backwards.

Retarding the timing a bit should stop that.
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 08 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the flywheel is in the right spot, It will ride absolutely fine, go through the gears fine, but then won’t go into neutral when coming to a stop, turn it off start up again but it in first and it will go backwards!

Stop the bike, start again and it’s fine and goes forward!
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Farmingstock
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PostPosted: 15:34 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

What would this be? After re-wiring yet again I can’t get the indicators to work and am wondering what this is?
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 15:53 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is two diodes
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Farmingstock
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 16:22 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no indicator relay anywhere, would that be on the rectifier?

Can’t seam to find the diodes.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 10 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Farmingstock wrote:
There is no indicator relay anywhere, would that be on the rectifier?

Can’t seam to find the diodes.


It looks like the two diodes are they to 'drive' the indicator dash/instrument warning.
One from each indicator set.
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