Unable to remove exhaust header nuts.

[sapstar]

Hi all, I just bought a black widow exhaust to install on my Kawasaki ER6N 2015. The 4 nuts holding the exhaust headers were very rusted to start with. I was able to apply some WD40 and using a bolt remover sockets, I was able to move 3 of the 4 nuts. One of the nuts seems to be rounded and the 12mm bolt remover socket is not able to get a hold of it. The 11mm is too tight to fit.

Any advise on how I can remove this nut? Also I want to buy new nuts to replace them. Can you recommend what I should buy to replace them?
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[Old Git Racing]

Get some plus gas, much better than WD40, apply liberally and leave to soak for 12 hours. Get a torx socket that is slightly small and hammer it on, it will either bring the nut off or the nut and stud together.

OGR
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2022 Tiger Sport 660 2019 Street Twin 2003 K3 gixxer 1000 1998 Srad 600 track hack

[sapstar]

[Old Git Racing]

Yep, just bray it on and give it a go, nothing to lose. I dont know about replacement nuts but they are usually generic sizes you can get from any local nut and bolt supplier. Get stainless steel if you can and put a bit of copperslip grease on the threads.

OGR
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2022 Tiger Sport 660 2019 Street Twin 2003 K3 gixxer 1000 1998 Srad 600 track hack

[Weisse Schlange]

Take your time.
It’s a major fuck up if you wreck a thread in the heed .
Release agent, time to soak in, PROPERLY fitting socket or spanner and plenty heat.
A little shock with a hammer etc if required but first, add more heat.

When you think it won’t go add some heat. The heat it again.
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Hing Oan

[sapstar]

[Old Git Racing]

You wont wreck a thread undoing it, the stud will come out before you do. Your best bet is to probably take it to someone who can. Not putting you down but if you dont have the confidence and feel to do it, get an experienced person to do it. As an engineer all my life you have to be brutal sometimes, if its rusted on there's only one way it comes off.

OGR
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2022 Tiger Sport 660 2019 Street Twin 2003 K3 gixxer 1000 1998 Srad 600 track hack

[stinkwheel]

Replce the nuts with brass ones. They will tend not to stick and if they do, the nut is softer metal than the stud it's on.

I think "being brutal" is bad advice. Sounds like a recipe for snapping a stud off flush with the head and they are a total ball-ache to extract if you do.

If you have access to a welder, welding another nut to the top of it is usually very effective.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[MCN]

[davebike]

Use heat
Use proper penetrating fluid like Kano Kroil I use Wurth Rost off but that is trade

Soak heat try (DO NOT BREAK) repeat

Cost to do professionally Time at hourly rate + small charge fro materials from 1 hour £50 with me to several and a drilled / timesert repair may be £200 !

Exhaust studs are often a problem Hopefully pro's would have good heating I use a big propane torch or an inductive heater and proper penetrating fluid + patience! Me I hate having to drill them so am very careful
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Dave
NC750Xdct + others at work !
davebike1@gmail.com

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[A100man]

Heat is 10x better than any penetrating oil IME.

BUT you need a proper source - a regular propane torch heat will be sucked up by the aluminium heatsink (sorry head). A MAP gas torch will be better. The welder trick also causes a heat 'shock' Induction heaters are I think what the pro's use.
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[sapstar]

[sapstar]

I see the consensus is to use penetrating fluids, heat and go slowly. I will get a good penetrating oil and give it a go. See attached photo. The second nut from the left is the one which is currently rounded.

I don't think I will be able to heat it enough with my electric heat gun. Will just try with penetrating oils and if I can't get it to move, I will just take it to a professional.
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[Easy-X]

Damn... I sympathise. I've always said if I'd left my bike another season I'd probably end up in the same situation.

My nuts didn't look as crusty as yours (fnarr, fnarr!) but I still soaked them with WD40 the previous day and then blasted them with a MAPP torch. Bear in mind that this is an area of the bike than gets supremely hot just in normal running so whacking it with heat isn't going to damage anything.

Similarly hammering on your too-tight nut extractor. The mere act of hammering it on will jar the stud a bit which is a good thing. The tool, nut, stud and exhaust flange are all sacrificial. I'd say give it a go as if you fuck it up and shear it off at the head you've still got three studs to hold the exhaust on with while you ride it to the garage

"But if I fuck it up I'll have to take it to a garage!" so, err... the solution instead is to take it to a garage?!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[A100man]

[to v or not to v]

have you tried mole grips?
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current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.

[MCN]

Find a single hex socket that is tight AF on the nuts.
If you can get the nuts red hot then malkie the socket over them they will come off by carefully loosening. And tightening. When you get the bastirts moving then spray with what ever Jizyou have. It's all snake oil mostly. If it lubricates and can wash out some rust it might help once you get the phukers moving.
Those nuts aren't too bad.
Waste of time and cash spraying any shite on them alone. Penetrating fluid only penetrates where there is a gap. Rust expands as it grows so plugs any gaps.
If you can't move the nuts then they're effectively watertight.
Heating and cooling might help fluid get in but time wasting.
Don't set fire to anything when heating your nuts.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[sapstar]

Thanks for all the advise. I think I am just going to get it fitted. Little worried that I may damage something. Called a garage and was quoted upto £80 to fit it which isn't bad.
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[A100man]

[sapstar]

[Pete.]

I'd have that off in two shakes of lamb's wotsit.

Wouldn't be tking it to no bloody garage that's for sure. They might be good and get the nuts off the rusted bolts, or they might shear the bolts and wreck the head trying to drill them out.

Time will tell....
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[sapstar]

Got the exhaust fitted today. I was charged £70 which I thought was quite reasonable. But there are a few isssues .

The garage tells me that the exhaust is leaking where the headers connect to the engine and some gaskets need to be fitted. Got the bike back today, but will need to go back after the gaskets arrive. Also I noticed that the exhaust is slightly touching the bottom of the foot peg hanger. Need to get this sorted as well.
For now exhaust sounds too loud even with a baffle, probably because of the leakage.

Also can someone clarify if this is normal. When easing off the throttle, sometimes I hear a slight backfire. This is more obvious at slower speeds and not as noticeable at highway speeds.
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[Pete.]

You will get popping on the over-run if your exhaust is leaking at the headers because fresh air is drawn in through the leak after every exhaust event and that allows any un-burnt hydrocarbons within the exhaust to ignite - causing the backfire. It's normal for your circumstances.

The gaskets you can get and fit yourself now that the garage has fitted the exhaust. They should have changed the rusted nuts out for new ones.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good