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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Hong Kong Phooey |
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Hong Kong Phooey World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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A100man |
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A100man World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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A100man |
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A100man World Chat Champion
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Posted: 11:52 - 15 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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Fat Angry Scotsman wrote: | A100man wrote: | Yes. No - just use the correct torque setting. |
I can't find the correct torque setting for it, I was thinking of just doing it as tight as possible with the long breaker bar since I don't think I will ever be doing this again on a 12 year old bike.
I will go hunting for the correct torque again now though. |
Don't go mad with it - strip the thread and you're in deep trouble. I'm guessing it's on a tapered shaft so it needn't be too tight. ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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Evil Hans |
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Evil Hans World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Posted: 13:09 - 15 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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Fuck ____________________ PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U. |
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P. |
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P. Red Rocket
Joined: 14 Feb 2008 Karma :
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Posted: 13:17 - 16 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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Need some more advice, I was able to find a service manual here:
https://mototh.com/files/kawasaki/Ninja-650R/Kawasaki-Ninja-650R-Service-Manual-EN.pdf
The procedure is noted on pages 520 through 522.
Do I need that big holder tool? It's insanely expensive online. Is there another option?
Also I noted that it says the puller tool is "Special Tool - Flywheel Puller Assembly, M38 × 1.5/M35 × 1.5: 57001-1405", so will the tool that I bought work? It's an M35 x 1.5 RH tool. ____________________ PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U. |
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 14:17 - 16 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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In the early 90's, kawasaki had big problems with magnets coming off rotors then getting chewed up and spreading magnetic swarf throughout the engine.
If you're proposing to re-use the old one, bear this in mind. If it's not immediately obvious, magnetic swarf circulating in your engine is a total disaster. Even with a full strip-down, it's near impossible to remove all of it. I seem to recall reading in one of your posts you had damaged one of the magnets anyway?
In terms of locking the rotor to undo the bolt without a holding tool, a trick I use is to insert a piece of folded denim between the teeth of the primary drive sprockets (or chain and sprocket if it has a primary drive chain). Note there is a risk you could damage the teeth and it'll put a fair bit of force on the bearing seats but I've never done it yet.
The really easy way is using an impact wrench to remove it. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 15:21 - 16 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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Fat Angry Scotsman wrote: | |
With that, it'll probably just rattle off without locking anything due to the inertia in the crank/flywheel. Sometimes adding a little more resistance with a gloved hand helps it along. Remember if it's in gear and you rotate the crank, the bike will roll forwards off its stand!
One trick I've used before is to mark the position of the bolt head in relation to the key (file a small score on it level with the key) before removal then tighten it back to the same position when re-fitting. This should achieve the same stretch on the bolt providing you're not a full rotation out. I did that for the huge 48mm nut that holds the rear axle on my VFR because I don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 140ft/lb.
Oh yeah, check which direction the bolt is done up. The sometimes use reverse threads to preven precession. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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steve the grease |
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steve the grease Crazy Courier
Joined: 26 Jan 2018 Karma :
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Posted: 16:52 - 16 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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Fat Angry Scotsman wrote: | a case of aligning the new part so that the key recesses match up and you put the key back in position and push it on.
I guess I will just need to hammer it on with a rubber mallet and then use the retaining bolt to snug it back down? Any need to Loctite it or anything? |
Push and hammer are rather different- just lightly offer the flywheel up to the crank- visually aligning the key way slot with the key in the flywheel. As you engage the slot in the key , the flywheel will slot into place and fit very snugly ( unless you've knocked the key out of its slot) I use the word snug because the flywheel will locate on the taper and sit there, it just feels right , the taper holding in alignment. The nut there just to lock it in place , rather than do any of the holding. No hammers ( rubber or otherwise) please. ____________________ All the above is my personal opinion, you can see my lips move, but I'm talking out of my arse.
I've been riding, and fixing , bikes for 50 years, in that time the more I learn, the less I am absolutely sure of..... |
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Posted: 09:45 - 27 Sep 2021 Post subject: |
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I put her back together yesterday and she once again lives ... well, maybe.
The hardest part of the whole job was getting the bolts that hold the clutch mechanism to the back of the rotor off the rotor. I had to use the same screws, coupling, washer and one-way bearing as was on the old rotor.
I just couldn't get a grip on the rotor body to get enough torque on the bolts by hand. The way I did it was to put the puller tool back on the main thread of the rotor and then a big set of gland clamps on the flat spots of the puller and just turn them in opposite directions.
Now that I have 20/20 hindsight I would have just clamped the rotor to a workbench
Anyway I got it all back together, I ripped the first cover gasket I tried to put on but luckily I had a spare.
I took her out a spin, some town streets then onto the dual carriageway and she was riding nice for about 20 miles. You could tell there was a bend in the handlebar though.
Then last night I took her to fill the tank and on the way back at a mini-roundabout I took a very hard right and leaned round and I heard a horrible grinding noise coming from the bike and a slight shake. It didn't sound like it was coming from the alternator though it sounded as if it was coming from the right hand side of the bike.
Guess when it stops raining sometime this week I am draining the oil back out of her, buying a new gasket and opening her up for a look inside to make sure
https://i.imgur.com/McstwWo.jpeg ____________________ PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U. |
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A100man |
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A100man World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 2 years, 211 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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