ER6-F - Questions on the replacing Flywheel/ Magneto/ Rotor

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

QUESTIONS AND GENERAL NOOBERY IN POST FURTHER DOWN

Hi all,

Trying to determine whether I need to actually change the flywheel on my ER6-F. Visually it looks in > 95% condition. A small skliff of the magnet surface was ablated off from the looks of it, but since the magnet runs deep in the rotor, I would guess 99.99% of the magnets volume remains. Would it be ok just to smooth it up again using some sandpaper and clean it off?

Someone mentioned checking the run-out on the rotor to see if it needs placed. Is there a way to measure it without removing the rotor from the bike? If I do have to take it off the bike, would I just be putting it in my lathe and using an indicator gauge to measure the run-out?

Finally, what is an acceptable run-out?

Thanks all!
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PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U.

[Hong Kong Phooey]

You would measure it in situ, so put it in gear, rotate the rear wheel on the centre stand or paddock stand.

The runout would need a dial test indicator, just brushing the part to be measured. Can't help you with the required tolerances.

Generally if you can feel any axial or radial play in the system, that would indicate a bearing needs to be replaced, or something has broken.
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'81 CG125, '97 FZS600 : '99 CBR600F4, '09 KTM RC8

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

OK to update the thread, I decided to just go ahead and buy the used rotor from eBay, it should turn up at the end of the month with all the other parts needed for the 100% rebuild.

I was able to get everything that was on my schedule in the other thread for £312.55, admittedly most parts are used with the exception of most of the hardware (some hardware was included in certain parts - the generator cover I bought comes with all hardware, the sprocket cover comes with the screws for it, etc, etc). The only thing I have not bought yet is an oil filter and 4 litres of oil so I can do that at the same time.

So I am looking for a tool to pull the flywheel off, but do I need anything special to put the replacement one on the bike? The one I noticed online, is this the right one? Does anyone know of any good write-ups/ tutorials on how to do it?

https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/workshop__and__tools/motocross_tools/motocross_engine_tools/motion_pro_flywheel_extractor_puller_tool_-_m35x1.5_rh_internal_thread?gclid=CjwKCAjw7fuJBhBdEiwA2lLMYRY4XhOmNdcSb1mljY51mWyCHJe9NMyPHgEoKSEuRraOsrHcmniEgBoCwMwQAvD_BwE
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PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U.

[Nobby the Bastard]

No special tools to put one back on, just watch out that you don't damage any windruff key on it.

Don't know whether it has one but there will be a mechanism to keep the rotor still in relation to the crank's rotation.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

Just an update on this, I measured the run-out on the rotor is was within +/- 0.5mm when measuring at the centre of the rotor, when I moved to the edge it was hard getting a good reading because of the surface smoothness at the part where the bike hit the ground.

It was a bit of a mute point as I already bought a used rotor on eBay, it was more for curiosity sake.

I've been watching videos on YouTube of people taking off various rotors from different motorcycles and it seems to literally be a case of using a special tool to take it off, it just pulls straight off and replacing it is a case of aligning the new part so that the key recesses match up and you put the key back in position and push it on.

I guess I will just need to hammer it on with a rubber mallet and then use the retaining bolt to snug it back down? Any need to Loctite it or anything?
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PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U.

[A100man]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[A100man]

[Evil Hans]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[P.]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

Need some more advice, I was able to find a service manual here:

https://mototh.com/files/kawasaki/Ninja-650R/Kawasaki-Ninja-650R-Service-Manual-EN.pdf

The procedure is noted on pages 520 through 522.

Do I need that big holder tool? It's insanely expensive online. Is there another option?

Also I noted that it says the puller tool is "Special Tool - Flywheel Puller Assembly, M38 × 1.5/M35 × 1.5: 57001-1405", so will the tool that I bought work? It's an M35 x 1.5 RH tool.
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PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U.

[WD Forte]

You might be able to stave off buying the rotor holder 57001-1658
by using a strap wrench on the outer surface of the rotor
I suspect many of us have devised impromptu and ad hoc versions of this
tool in similar situations
You cant/shouldn't use a 3 legged puller because of the toothed starter gear wheel inboard of the rotor
although I have seen people try and get away with it, its not recommended practise.

I cant any pics but a wee scuff on the rotor would not have me rushing to change it, only say worn sprag clutch rollers would have me pulling the rotor off unless it's off axis
If it aint broke.........

M38 is the inside thread for the rotor while M35 is bolt size that works against it to draw it off the taper where a WOODRUFF key holds it in position.

(or is it Woodbine key? Windrush key?)
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bikers smell of wee

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[stinkwheel]

In the early 90's, kawasaki had big problems with magnets coming off rotors then getting chewed up and spreading magnetic swarf throughout the engine.

If you're proposing to re-use the old one, bear this in mind. If it's not immediately obvious, magnetic swarf circulating in your engine is a total disaster. Even with a full strip-down, it's near impossible to remove all of it. I seem to recall reading in one of your posts you had damaged one of the magnets anyway?

In terms of locking the rotor to undo the bolt without a holding tool, a trick I use is to insert a piece of folded denim between the teeth of the primary drive sprockets (or chain and sprocket if it has a primary drive chain). Note there is a risk you could damage the teeth and it'll put a fair bit of force on the bearing seats but I've never done it yet.

The really easy way is using an impact wrench to remove it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WD Forte]

It appears to be a quite common system there
Basically you've got 3 thread sizes involved.
The holding bolt of say M25/M28? at a guess to hold the rotor on the shaft/taper
M38 cut inside the rotor body which in normal use does nothing

Once the holding bolt is removed
The M38 outer removal tool screws in to the rotor until it butts up against the shaft.
then the M35 runs inside the tool until it too meets the shaft
its diameter too big to damage the inner threads
and when tightened up jacks against the rotor body and shaft/taper
(often assisted by a whack wiv a nammer)
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

When I remove a rotor I want to use again
I have 2 clean carrier/freezer bags ready to immediately drop the rotor into and seal up.
Left on the floor those feckers will pick up any ferro magnetic debris and dust within a 50 mile radius it seems and getting them clean is almost impossible.
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bikers smell of wee

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

[stinkwheel]

[steve the grease]

[Fat Angry Scotsman]

I put her back together yesterday and she once again lives ... well, maybe.

The hardest part of the whole job was getting the bolts that hold the clutch mechanism to the back of the rotor off the rotor. I had to use the same screws, coupling, washer and one-way bearing as was on the old rotor.

I just couldn't get a grip on the rotor body to get enough torque on the bolts by hand. The way I did it was to put the puller tool back on the main thread of the rotor and then a big set of gland clamps on the flat spots of the puller and just turn them in opposite directions.

Now that I have 20/20 hindsight I would have just clamped the rotor to a workbench

Anyway I got it all back together, I ripped the first cover gasket I tried to put on but luckily I had a spare.

I took her out a spin, some town streets then onto the dual carriageway and she was riding nice for about 20 miles. You could tell there was a bend in the handlebar though.

Then last night I took her to fill the tank and on the way back at a mini-roundabout I took a very hard right and leaned round and I heard a horrible grinding noise coming from the bike and a slight shake. It didn't sound like it was coming from the alternator though it sounded as if it was coming from the right hand side of the bike.

Guess when it stops raining sometime this week I am draining the oil back out of her, buying a new gasket and opening her up for a look inside to make sure

https://i.imgur.com/McstwWo.jpeg
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PRESENT: 2018 BMW S1000XR SE Sport.
PAST: 2009 Kawasaki ER-6F. 2021 Zontes ZT-125U.

[A100man]

did you just touch a peg down or part of the exhaust?
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600