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ER6-F - Questions on the replacing Flywheel/ Magneto/ Rotor

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Fat Angry Scotsman
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Joined: 12 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 11:12 - 27 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
did you just touch a peg down or part of the exhaust?


Unfortunately nothing so simple I think, when I righted the bike back up on the straight it continued for another second or two then went away. I pulled over and gave the engine a rev and there was no further sound.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 15:49 - 27 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just had a nightmare and now I am sweating bullets. I re-read the instructions in the service manual and I have noticed two things I didn't do:

1. Re-apply moly oil to the idler gear, I just left it as it was the original and oily as fuck already,

2. Apply non-permanent thread lock to the three bolts that hold the the one-way clutch assembly to the rotor. I definitely torqued them up to the correct amount but I never lock-tite'd them.

Going to order a new gasket. For the cost of a gasket and some oil and a little time I am going to open it back up, check in case anything is fucked and then re-torque down and thread lock those screws.

EDIT: Does anyone know if the rotor still spins when the bike is in neutral?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 27 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:

EDIT: Does anyone know if the rotor still spins when the bike is in neutral?


The rotor is fixed to the crank so if the engine is running, yes
if the motor is stopped and you turn the back wheel in neutral, no
if the motor is stopped and you turn the back wheel in gear, yes
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Nobby the Bastard
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Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 27 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rotor should be attached to the crank so they should spin together.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 09:35 - 28 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you gentlemen, I rode it last night and it happened again but it happens when leaning in hard-right only and I am convinced it's either something in the steering or the final drive train.

I don't think it's the alternator, if it was then it wouldn't be so heavily circumstantial on leaning in hard-right.

I checked my chain and sprockets and while the rear sprocket is really due for renewal there wasn't any play that I could feel and the chain tension is in spec and I oiled it when I replaced the alternator as the bike was up on the paddock stand anyway.

I am going to take the sprocket cover off when I get home and have a look in case the problem is I routed something incorrectly when putting it back together.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:41 - 28 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

As you is a self confessed fat bastard
maybe when all the weight is on one side
it's the bike way of saying
"Owwwww! ya fucker!"
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 28 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
As you is a self confessed fat bastard
maybe when all the weight is on one side
it's the bike way of saying
"Owwwww! ya fucker!"


I actual thought it might be something like that due to flexure of the suspension or swing arm as the suspension strut is on the right of the bike and the final drive train components are on the left.

Genuinely could it just be because I’m heavy as fuck?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:21 - 28 Sep 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's almost impossible to say from just reading a few lines of text
and any forum advice is best guess at best based on what we read.

The bike 'shaking' sounds more structure/suspension/brake related than internal gubbins to me and I'd want go over it an check it's all
tight and secure before going out on it again.
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