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MT10 Generator Cover Removal - Help

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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 28 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
TravisBickle wrote:
By widening my search slightly I managed to find a what appears to be compatible puller for £9.99 so I'll have to wait for that to be delivered I guess...


Be careful, make sure you got both the clockwise and anti-clockwise threads specified correctly. A cheap generic puller was useless on my Kwak, I had to shell out £60 on the proper puller. The cheaper one was still £30 but I returned it to the store as it was unused.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 11:27 - 28 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yup pretty sure I've done my research correctly as I searched for the part numbers given for the puller that Kawasaki Jimbo kindly supplied. Those part numbers are listed with an M35 internal RH thread. I'm 99.9% sure the one I ordered is the same.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 28 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
TravisBickle wrote:
Yup pretty sure I've done my research correctly as I searched for the part numbers given for the puller that Kawasaki Jimbo kindly supplied. Those part numbers are listed with an M35 internal RH thread. I'm 99.9% sure the one I ordered is the same.


Good man, I remember doing the exact same thing as you're doing now on my ER-6F and at the time I was frustrated with it and getting it done. Looking back now, it wasn't all that bad. If I ever had to do it again in future, it would be done in a fraction of the time.

Same with the fairings that I had to replace. It was a nightmare taking them off and working out the correct order to put them back together but it worked out and I remember the right way to do it after making loads of mistakes. It was a massive pain in the arse. Seriously, I was ready to part it out at one point and right it off, but it was fine. Looking back on it, I would be pretty comfortable fully disassembling it and putting it back together again but the one thing I still dread is ever having to connect the electricals again. Fuck me, that was hard as fuck.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 28 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
TravisBickle wrote:
Yup pretty sure I've done my research correctly as I searched for the part numbers given for the puller that Kawasaki Jimbo kindly supplied. Those part numbers are listed with an M35 internal RH thread. I'm 99.9% sure the one I ordered is the same.

When I did my R1 I started with a Laser 3-arm puller but the flywheel was on so tight it snapped one of the arms. Generally I’m a firm believer in using the right tool for the job as long as it’s not ridiculously expensive, even if it only gets used once.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 28 Feb 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yeah can't complain at a tenner really but on my initial search I did think that nearly £40 was a bit steep!
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 06 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5Q0KlC2LUs

Bike won't start still.

Off to get some petrol but something tells me this isn't the problem. Swishing the tank sounds like there's a bit in there.

Any ideas PLEASE???!!!
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Last edited by TravisBickle on 22:07 - 08 Mar 2022; edited 1 time in total
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 06 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Also anyone know if those red 50a fuses are a special Yamaha fitment or can they be picked up from Halfords or the like?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 07 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
TravisBickle wrote:
Also anyone know if those red 50a fuses are a special Yamaha fitment or can they be picked up from Halfords or the like?


If the fuse is a standard bladed one then you'll be able to pick up a replacement at any spares supplier.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 01:25 - 07 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
I lolled when, having just demonstrated the value of a fuse, you immediately replaced it with a screwdriver. Top bodging indeed. Impressive honesty though. What was that whistling sound? Is there an alarm/immobiliser, and a fuse? Otherwise you’ve surely got to suspect the thing that whirred momentarily (fuel pump?) but is quiet now.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 04:04 - 07 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Islander wrote:
If the fuse is a standard bladed one then you'll be able to pick up a replacement at any spares supplier.


Doesn't look like any 'standard' blade type fuse I've ever seen, but then I'm more used to working on cars than I am on bikes. Looks like a female version of a blade fuse, but with the slots for the blades going the other way. See here:

https://static.motorcyclespareparts.eu/mspparts/4/5jw821511000-yamaha-1.jpg

Cheapest one I can find on Ebay is £14 which is daylight robbery for just a fuse, but I'm searching for the part number and if these are indeed just a generic part and not Yamaha-specific I dare say they'll be available for under a fiver from Inta or Laguna in Maidstone?



Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
I lolled when, having just demonstrated the value of a fuse, you immediately replaced it with a screwdriver. Top bodging indeed. Impressive honesty though. What was that whistling sound? Is there an alarm/immobiliser, and a fuse? Otherwise you’ve surely got to suspect the thing that whirred momentarily (fuel pump?) but is quiet now.


Bodgery goes hand in hand with buggery. I take what you're saying about the whole purpose of a fuse in the first place, but by this point I was at least 51% sure I had the polarity correct this time so figured I had good odds of not making it any worse while I impatiently bodged it just to see if it would start and run Embarassed Laughing

2:45am and I've only just got indoors from poncing around with the bike. I made a start on the plastics that needed replacing, front headlight cowl was a PITA! But got there in the end. The bike is coming along ok now, most of the cosmetics are done. Front end is pretty much done just now need to replace the bent tail tidy and replace the rear indicators and the levers and put the mirrors on but I have all the parts so should be good to go soon. Other than that, it's just down to seeing if the bloody thing will run. I'll try giving it a good cranking session again tomorrow with a charger connected, as it's too late to try starting it now but I filled up the tank with another 5 litres of petrol. Fingers crossed!

Not sure what whistling sound you're referring to? I just watched the video back to myself and you can hear the pump prime for a couple of seconds when the ignition is turned on, is that what you're referring to?

When I connected the battery the wrong way round I'm pretty sure it was the fuel pump that was whining (very loudly, like, cause for concern loudly!), so the fact it's actually priming should indicate at least there's no fuse blown for the pump there and that the pump is actually working?

Not sure about alarm but surely must have an immobiliser. If it's a fuse there that's causing it not to start, would there be a light on the dash?
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Islander
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 07 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
A quick Google image search shows that it's a standard part so should be available from a number of sources. Smile
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:00 - 07 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Standard or not still cost me twenty bloody quid at Laguna! Should have got the one off Ebay for £14 but to be honest while I was actually stood at the Laguna parts desk with the prospect of walking away empty handed after already having made the trip there, only to wait another 3 days or so for delivery, just to save £6... Nah, fuck it!

Anyway I had another go at trying to start it after putting 5 litres in. Still no good! I've taken another video to try to capture as much of the sound as possible. There's a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust when I crank it but it won't fire up. Any ideas? Could I have cocked something up in the generator cover with the pickup, maybe?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxHrkTuWfpM
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 07 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Got there in the end!

7.5amp Electric Throttle Valve fuse had blown. Whether this was caused by my incompetently connecting the battery the wrong way round, or whether the fuse had been blown since I got the bike, I don't know. The important thing is it's running now. Coughed and spluttered a bit and had to hold the throttle open a tad while it warmed up for the first time in about a year, but finally got it running under its own steam and she settled down and started running smoothly.

Happy boy!

Now just need to finish a few cosmetic bits tomorrow then it'll be ready to go to Aylesford to have the rear wheel repaired.

Happy boy!

Thanks to everyone who helped me regarding getting the generator cover off and changing the stator and flywheel etc. Couldn't have done it without you guys! Very grateful!
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 00:34 - 08 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
I think of these things as learning experiences Laughing if I didn’t then I would cry. Like I said earlier in the thread I would happily change the rotor and stator on my bike again. I’d get it done in a fraction of the time now.

I’m probably going to have to change the headlight housing in my ER6F which means taking the fairing off completely again. I’m not bothered with taking it off and breaking it down to constituent parts. The thing that I’m not looking forward to is the reconnecting the electrical again. That was a nightmare.

Congratulations on finishing your repairs. What’s your plan for her now?
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 00:53 - 08 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
Like I said earlier in the thread I would happily change the rotor and stator on my bike again. I’d get it done in a fraction of the time now.


Definitely! Although to be fair to me, it wasn't helped by the fact that the flywheel was damaged which was causing me trouble getting the bloody cover off in the first place. If it had been an undamaged bike it would have been a lot more straight forward.

But yeah even now I've had the plastics and front end off now, I'd be far quicker doing it again next time!

So it's a 2017 standard MT10 with 8k on the clock

I have a 2021 MT10 SP with 3k on the clock which I bought new

Everyone keeps telling me I should keep the 2017 and sell the 2021 SP but I dunno. I do love my baby! So I think I will sell the 2017 and be grateful and think myself lucky if I manage to get back what it owes me without making any profit. There was a lot more to it than what I could tell from the photos. Was £5,500 including auction fees and I've spent another £1,100 on it so far (mostly genuine brand new parts from Fowlers) so I reckon it'll be knocking £7,000 by the time it's finished.

Only things left to do now are replace the damaged aftermarket levers with the stock levers that came of the 2021 SP. The tail tidy is bent but I already bought a tail tidy for the 2021 SP but haven't got round to fitting it yet so if I put that new tail tidy on the 2021 SP, the 2017 can then have the stock rear end that comes off the 2021 SP. I'll flush the oil and do an oil and filter change (already got the filter) just in case there's any small fragments of plastic floating around from the damaged stator and flywheel, I'll replace the sump plug with a magnetic one just in case there's any metal in there too.

From there it's off to Maidstone Motoliner in Aylesford to repair the buckled rear wheel, then it'll be ready to go on the market.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 01:03 - 08 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
TravisBickle wrote:
So I think I will sell the 2017 and be grateful and think myself lucky if I manage to get back what it owes me without making any profit.


Having said that, the cheapest 2017 on Auto Trader with under 10k is £8,500. Factor in this is a private sale, not trade, and also the fact it's a can N... Shouldn't have too much trouble getting £7,500 for it???
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Fat Angry Scotsman
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 08 Mar 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
TravisBickle wrote:
Having said that, the cheapest 2017 on Auto Trader with under 10k is £8,500. Factor in this is a private sale, not trade, and also the fact it's a can N... Shouldn't have too much trouble getting £7,500 for it???


No idea mate, the market is crazy right now. I've seen second hand chink bikes going for damn near their new price.
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