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Bike veers to the right

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Abaaba
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 14 Nov 2021
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 04 Apr 2022    Post subject: Bike veers to the right Reply with quote

Hi All,

Not sure if this is a big thing or just normal.

I was doing 20mph on a quiet road and for some reason took my hands off the handlebar and noticed the bike veers to the right..........tried a couple of times to make sure it wasn't the road or I was leaning without realising but both times the bike wants to go right............what could this be and has anyone had it?

The bike is: Honda CBF600 2008 Model.
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struan80
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PostPosted: 23:16 - 04 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea but I guess a rear wheel alignment after a tyre change or something may cause this. Take it your tyre pressures are all ok?

Could be your right bollock is bigger than the left causing unusual weight distribution. Laughing
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Abaaba
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PostPosted: 23:18 - 04 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

struan80 wrote:

Could be your right bollock is bigger than the left causing unusual weight distribution. Laughing


LOL - I was expecting this sort of response but not this quick.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:21 - 04 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

First thing I'd check is the wheel alignment. Could be the rear is misaligned on the adjusters or sometimes the front can be twisted slightly in the yokes. A CBR6 should track straight with no hands on the bars.

Have a look at the tyres and see if there's any uneven wear.

An old trick for straightening up the front end is to loosen the pinch bolts on the yokes and pump the front end up and down a few times with the brake on then re-tighten them. Not so loose as the forks slip down through the yokes but enough so they can move a bit if they need to.

You can check the wheel alignment with the bike on the mainstand and a straight edge held on the rear wheel so it's touching the tyre in two places and see if it's the same distance from two points on the front when the steering is central. You can even use a tight piece of string to do this.
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DJP
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 05 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also check that you don't have any tight cables. Get the front wheel off the ground and check that the steering moves freely from side to side.
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 05 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
An old trick for straightening up the front end is to loosen the pinch bolts on the yokes and pump the front end up and down a few times with the brake on then re-tighten them. Not so loose as the forks slip down through the yokes but enough so they can move a bit if they need to.


I've seen it done by loosening the bolts and with the bike upright and bars straight, lightly bumping the front wheel into a wall. Precision engineering obviously, but it works. Laughing
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds as though someone has been messing with one the fork preload adjusters.This happened to a friend who had got his bike back from the dealer after the fork seals and oil had been replaced.One preload adjuster was on the hardest,the other was on the softest.A quick adjustment with a screwdriver and all was good.
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notbike
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheel misalignment, bent or misaligned forks, bent frame. Could be any. My Cat D R125 had this issue.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:09 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you buy it off Donk?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 07 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
It sounds as though someone has been messing with one the fork preload adjusters.This happened to a friend who had got his bike back from the dealer after the fork seals and oil had been replaced.One preload adjuster was on the hardest,the other was on the softest.A quick adjustment with a screwdriver and all was good.


You'd have to wonder if they seated the damping adjuster needle properly if that was the case.

I wouldn't expect that to make the bike to pull to one side either, the whole front end should be moving as a unit. Like many bicycles have a spring in one fork and damping in the other.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:


I wouldn't expect that to make the bike to pull to one side either, the whole front end should be moving as a unit. Like many bicycles have a spring in one fork and damping in the other.


Quite - and some motorcycles too I believe
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:24 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't it compression adjustment in one fork and damping in the other? (Springs with pre-load in both.) But yes, same principle would apply.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 13:08 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Isn't it compression adjustment in one fork and damping in the other?

In the context of this conversation, compression damping in one fork leg and rebound damping in the other leg.
Quote:
Springs with pre-load in both.

Springs don't have preload, preload is an adjustment that can be made to the compression damper.

Wink
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:

Springs don't have preload, preload is an adjustment that can be made to the compression damper.

Wink



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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
rebound


Ah yes, that was the word I was looking for Smile
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Ste
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PostPosted: 14:05 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Rolling Eyes

Yes, that diagram shows that the spring is just a spring and preload is an adjustment that's independent of the spring.

Springs can be changed to one(s) of a different rate and then the preload would need setting for that spring rate.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Rolling Eyes

Yes, that diagram shows that the spring is just a spring and preload is an adjustment that's independent of the spring.

Springs can be changed to one(s) of a different rate and then the preload would need setting for that spring rate.


Preload acts on the spring, preloading its tension.

Compression damping is done by altering how open a valve is in the oilway used when the shock gets compressed, just like the rebound damping does the same for an equivelent valve in the return oilway.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preload applies only to springs, it's the amount the spring is pre-compressed before it begins to travel. Not seen any that you adjust with a screwdriver though.

Compression and rebound are two types of damping nowt to do with the spring.

Damping should not affect the geometry since once the fork stops moving damping has zero effect.as above, many bikes have compression damping on one fork and rebound on the other.

Edit:Nobby got in there first.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 20:48 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preload doesn't just apply to springs as it also applies to air shocks.

If someone has the wrong spring then they're never going to be able to set the preload correctly.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Preload doesn't just apply to springs as it also applies to air shocks.

If someone has the wrong spring then they're never going to be able to set the preload correctly.


I would remind you that this isn't really a cycling forum and air suspension isn't really a thing on bikes.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 08 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:


I would remind you that this isn't really a cycling forum and air suspension isn't really a thing on bikes.


Quite a few rear shocks are nitrogen gas damped.

In any case, the suspension settings aren't why the bike is veering to one side. It's going to be an alignment issue.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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SpiritMr89
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PostPosted: 04:47 - 09 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've accidently dropped into one of the very few potholes on our roads, it could have slightly twisted the bars.

Your brain will not register the difference, since it is used to riding straight and compensating for it.

Pretty sure (many moons ago), a maybe wrong.

Piece of string down back wheel to front to check alignment?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 09 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
Preload doesn't just apply to springs as it also applies to air shocks.

If someone has the wrong spring then they're never going to be able to set the preload correctly.


In air shocks (fournales etc) the air is the spring.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 10 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Fizzer Thou wrote:
It sounds as though someone has been messing with one the fork preload adjusters.A quick adjustment with a screwdriver and all was good.


You'd have to wonder if they seated the damping adjuster needle properly if that was the case.


On the Exup-R that I mentioned there are no damping adjusters,only stepped fork pre-load.These are under the small plastic caps typically found not only on the 1989 Exup-R but also on the 1991 FJ1200-3XW and are adjusted by using a blade screwdriver.

As for the OPs situation,my brother had a similar problem on his GSXR1100H.One of the original fork springs snapped.

The only way to find out what the fault is would be to strip them down to individual components.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 09:47 - 11 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The most obvious one is somebody adjusted the chain slack, and trusted the markers on the swing arm were accurate/the same either side.

You should be able to tell if the rear is aligned by eye, lying on the ground, using the lined up edges of the rear tyre as a reference, but string or a straight bit of wood is how I did it in the early days.
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