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Did an oppsie on highway, need help diagnosing

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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 16:36 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may just need the idle turning up, should be a knob on the carbs to do it.

It does sound noisy at very low engine speed, but that could just be because it's running too slow and trying to stall. Sounds fine on choke.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 16:59 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if that's clutch rattle? Does the noise go away/change when you pull in the clutch?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fact it starts on the button like that makes me think there's not anything mechanical wrong with it.

I would go with my usual standby of coil(s) failing cause stalling after a couple of minutes but as it didn't use to need the choke to start and now it does I'll go with something fuel related.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:18 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't divvies have an oddball mechanical fuel pump? I wonder if the tank's getting low and the pump is misbehaving. You could try it with a full tank and see if the problem goes away.
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GfromLT
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cant remember now about pulling the clutch and the noise, will check tommorrow. Filling up the tank is no biggie.
Someone suggested that I use a screwdriver to listen where the sound is coming from.
I had filled up gas only once, a week before "the incident". I dont know how long the bikes been stored before I purchased it and I ran it on reserve for a few times. Could there be a posibility, that the violent shock of my dumb-ass gear change shook up all kinds of shit in gas tank and now the pumps/filter/carbs are clogged?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would mean it would run like a dog all the time. As soon as you turn on the choke it pursts into life quite happily and seems to run cleanly so I suspect not.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:49 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
That would mean it would run like a dog all the time. As soon as you turn on the choke it pursts into life quite happily and seems to run cleanly so I suspect not.


Unless it's the fuel pump. I checked and some models do indeed have a mechanical vacuum operated fuel pump which if it was iffy, might not be making sufficient pressure at low rev speeds? Then a starter enricher circuit would come into play, like me trying to start my enfield tonight with the fuel tap off. It would fire up and idle on choke but die without the choke.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:05 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't see a vacuum tap or any sort of pump being bothered by crap in the fuel but openingthe choke fixing it.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Can't see a vacuum tap or any sort of pump being bothered by crap in the fuel but openingthe choke fixing it.


If it's not pumping at low revs leading to a low float height, opening the starter enricher might get enough fuel in for it to fire up. Then when it's spinning up faster, normal service would be resumed.

I remember there being a thing with these XJ fuel pumps that they struggle to get enough fuel to the carbs if you run out of petrol at a standstill before the battery is flat.

Flicking the choke on was always the way to get your bike to fire up again on the fly if you conked out and had to put it onto reserve while still rolling. Not just on XJs and not just on bikes with a fuel pump.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 19 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

OP, if you're absolutely sure it's firing on all cylinders at idle in that last video, then I strongly suspect it's the famous Diversion clutch rattle. If so, it's nothing serious and nothing to worry about. Sounds like rod damage/engine death, but it's absolutely nothing.

Step one: get your carbs perfectly in sync. I expect that this will significantly abate the unpleasant noise.

Step two: investigate the gear behind the clutch basket. Remove the clutch basket. You will see that a gear right behind it is retained by a little metal dowel about 10mm long. This should have absolutely no play in it. If it does, you'll need to make a new one (use a section of HSS drill bit - you may need to file down a 4.5mm or 5mm or 5.5mm or 6mm - depends on your particular case). Press/force/drift the new dowel in firmly. It should have no play in it.

Speculation/mythology: the price of these extremely robust-engined bikes may have been kept down by people who couldn't figure out the source of that clutch noise (which often appears at around the 30-40K mile mark), and who were driven to artificially advancing the auto cam chain tensioner by one click to deal with the noise (don't do that) and then flogging it. However, I can't say that for sure.

All I can tell you is - basic things first. Get those carbs in sync. I expect you'll come back and say the noise has gone away. If you don't , then whip off the clutch basket.
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GfromLT
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PostPosted: 09:00 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:

Step one: get your carbs perfectly in sync. I expect that this will significantly abate the unpleasant noise.

Step two: investigate the gear behind the clutch basket. Remove the clutch basket. You will see that a gear right behind it is retained by a little metal dowel about 10mm long. This should have absolutely no play in it. If it does, you'll need to make a new one (use a section of HSS drill bit - you may need to file down a 4.5mm or 5mm or 5.5mm or 6mm - depends on your particular case). Press/force/drift the new dowel in firmly. It should have no play in it.

Thank you for response and clear instructions, allthough im not gonna be able accomplish that.
However it is getting clear that the culprit is fueling system / carburetors. As far as I know, I didnt clean the carbs, and previous owner definitely didnt clean the carbs before selling the bike, so visit to a mechanic is due.
I am going to try changing oil on my own, have a strong magnet gonna fish for pieces, in the old oil, with it (if there are any).
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Once started even on choke, give it a thrash, see if that clears your carb issues.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi one other idea..

The older XJ engine like the one in my 550, I'm told has a hydraulic primary chain tensioner, mine also sounds sh!t at low revs - maybe the Diverson is the same - they do share some parts like the sump

You have to make sure the oil level is close to the upper limit and turn the idle up a bit for the noise to quieten down.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe it has an electric fuel pump as in the second 002 vid
you can hear it priming (sort of a soft buzzing sound)
when the starter button is released.

In vid 003 it does sound a bit lumpy, do I detect a bit of
an exhaust leak?

Whatever it is, it doesn't sound fatal just an old bike in need of
some attention.
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GfromLT
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PostPosted: 17:30 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I played around with the bike today trying different scenarios. What I noticed was:
- When cold bike starts up okay-ish with choke half-way pulled. Giving throttle makes engine go VROOOOM.
- putting it in gear, without releasing the clutch, makes RPM go down 1.5-2k (wtf?)
- Idle rpm isnt stable (when fired up with choke, 3k rpm, going up and down +-300rpm.
- I left it to idle for as long as it could. While engine is hot, it doesnt wannt to start even with choke, If it does start, rpm rises to ~4k because of how much choke is pulled and then start falling, falling, and stalls in like 2 minutes of total idling
-While RPM is falling, twisting throttle kills the engine.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpa-yIf46hg

Tried to push bike in different gears, there is some free play, but gears are there. Engine knockin indeed is clutch rattle. Didnt find anything metal in engine oil.

At this point it has to be the fueling?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 22:44 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know the bike from personal experience but shouldn't normal tickover be around say 1100 -ish?
and fast idle, using choke, say 500 rpm ish faster?
3000 seems way to fast.
Fairly sure those carbs have rubber diaphragms in as Yamaha use them a lot and they can go hard or crack with age.

I'd have the carbs off for inspection and give it a general service otherwise you'll just keep guessing
Buy a workshop manual off Ebay if you cant find an internet freebie.
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Last edited by WD Forte on 22:57 - 20 Apr 2022; edited 1 time in total
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 20 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's overdue a service. It does sound like there are a number of minor issues that need to be put right. Your engine races, and behaves differently when warmed up. When you pull in the clutch the revs go down when you shift into first. That's most likely your carburettors out of balance but you may also have a vacuum leak. A holed exhaust is another possibility. I would just go through everything one thing at a time. A proper service will solve things.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 02:22 - 21 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked that tank breather yet?
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