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Replacing starter motor brushes - solder, weld or crimp?

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jimster
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 30 Apr 2022    Post subject: Replacing starter motor brushes - solder, weld or crimp? Reply with quote

Hi all,

I am going to replace the starter motor brushes on my starter motor for my Yamaha Diversion 900. I only have a soldering iron and I've realised they might be welded. Do I need to weld on the replacements? Or can I get away with soldering / crimping them in?

And if solder, what power soldering iron am I likely to need? I have 25w and 40w. Lidls have a gas powered soldering iron in this weekend @ the bargain price of £15, so that's another option.

Thanks Smile
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 00:26 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say the brushes are probably soldered on. Your 40W soldering iron should do the trick. See if you can find something to wedge the brushes in the brush holders when you solder the pigtails. That way, you don't fight the action of the springs and have both hands free for the solder job. Afterwards, remove the wedges to allow the brushes to spring against the commutator.
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struan80
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PostPosted: 01:46 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Solder. Any of the irons will do the job. Just may take longer to heat the metal and flux.

Strangely enough I used to solder brushes on DC motors when I was in the Navy 35 years ago. I'm shit at soldering on a circuit board though. I'm too shaky due to my drinking habits.

On another note, just buy a recon starter.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 02:05 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

They will not be welded.
They'll either be soldered or have terminals crimped on the copper braid pigtails and fastened by screws or crimped to the terminal lugs.
This is why you ought to 'Test don't Guess' and
examine it first before spending money.

How do you even know if they're worn?
I serviced a 21 year old starter last year that only needed a damn good clean out (I used carb cleaner) and the commutator polishing up.
the brushes were nowhere near the service limit.

If the brushes are below the service limit you can buy the whole kit
base plate, springs and new ready attached attached brushes for £60 ish
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 08:31 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: T Reply with quote

What do the CMSNL exploded views suggest.

They tail wires etc may be spot welded...

What year etc is your divvi ?
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jimster
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Re: T Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
What do the CMSNL exploded views suggest.

They tail wires etc may be spot welded...

What year etc is your divvi ?


Thanks! What's a CMSNL exploded view?? Laughing

It's a 1997 divvy, 900cc.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

On automotive starters, sometimes the brush holders have two small holes drilled into them. You can depress the brush into the holder, compressing the spring, and insert a paperclip wire through the holes to retract the brushes for ease of assembly.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 15:59 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a Divvy starter service kit from Ebay
It looks to me that the brush tails are crimped to the base on the earth side and have an eyelet terminal attached to a peened over stud on the positive side.
You could of course cheap out and buy individual brushes to try to fit them yourself, or just cough up the dosh.

I still maintain you should examine the fecker first
instead of playing swap and hope.
There's more to starter motors than brushes, what if the commutator
is burn out,winding insulation heat damaged or bearings and seals worn?


https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/l7wAAOSwnz9br0u3/s-l1600.png
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ZebraDriver
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PostPosted: 18:34 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Be careful if your trying to solder the leads on the brushes shown in the photographs. Its too easy to have enough heat in the wire to make solder wick along it making it rigid enough to snap later on when it tries to move.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:11 - 01 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
What do the CMSNL exploded views suggest.

They tail wires etc may be spot welded...

What year etc is your divvi ?


This

ZebraDriver wrote:
Be careful if your trying to solder the leads on the brushes shown in the photographs. Its too easy to have enough heat in the wire to make solder wick along it making it rigid enough to snap later on when it tries to move.


And very much this. They might well be resistance welded brush braids often are, or crimped. If you do solder them use the largest iron you can find and do them quick.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 02 May 2022    Post subject: T Reply with quote

Google CMSNL, follow your nose and find your exact bike.

Find the exploded view of interest.

Find the number of the part of interest.

Find the part in the list, and open the picture of the actual part....
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B1N
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 02 May 2022    Post subject: Re: T Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Google CMSNL, follow your nose and find your exact bike.

Find the exploded view of interest.

Find the number of the part of interest.

Find the part in the list, and open the picture of the actual part....


Wow, thats brilliant, thank you Thumbs Up
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 02 May 2022    Post subject: T Reply with quote

Don't thank me, thank CMSNL. A really handy informative and free resource.
I even buy stuff from them occasionally.
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jimster
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 02 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
I still maintain you should examine the fecker first
instead of playing swap and hope.


Thanks for the picture!

I did measure the brushes with callipers a few months ago. They were well below spec. Everything else seems fine. I have ordered replacement brushes. I'll be able to open the starter motor up again tomorrow and hopefully will be able to figure out better how the current brushes are attached.

You mention "peening"...what does that mean in this context? I've never heard of peening before and wikipedia suggests it involves hitting the metal while cold, possibly after welding.

does that suggest the brush on that side might be welded on after all?
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Previous: Yamaha Diversion 600cc, Piaggio Zip 50cc, Honda CG125-W, Siamoto Caddy 50cc moped


Last edited by jimster on 13:38 - 02 May 2022; edited 2 times in total
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jimster
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 02 May 2022    Post subject: Re: T Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Don't thank me, thank CMSNL. A really handy informative and free resource.
I even buy stuff from them occasionally.


Wow, that site looks more comprehensive than wemoto and the diagrams are amazing!!

Their prices do seem a bit high (€350 for a replacement starter motor...ouch!!) but I suppose if you need one, you gotta pay!!
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 02 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

jimster wrote:


Thanks for the picture!

I did measure the brushes with callipers a few months ago. They were well below spec. Everything else seems fine. I have ordered replacement brushes. I'll be able to open the starter motor up again tomorrow and hopefully will be able to figure out better how the current brushes are attached.

You mention "peening"...what does that mean in this context? I've never heard of peening before and wikipedia suggests it involves hitting the metal while cold, possibly after welding.

does that suggest the brush on that side might be welded on after all?


Peening after welding is a technique for deforming the surface of metals prone to shrinkage cracking (for example welding cast iron). It induces surface stresses by putting a large number of golf-ball dimples in a surface to stretch it. I use the same tecnique/principle for straightening thin cast iron machine parts.

In this context, it means similar to rivetting, crimping or 'upsetting'. Metal is hammered to deform it and trap the braid in the terminal for a good electrical connection.
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buddy
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 08 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tldr BUT
be careful if you solder them.
Last time i used too much flux... As a result the solder flashed down onto part of the copper "copper ribbon/cable/wire/whatever u wanna call it" resulting in a brush that was stiff on its cable.... Very annoying.

The moral is be stingy with the solder and flux.
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