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Randomperson |
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Randomperson L Plate Warrior
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A100man |
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A100man World Chat Champion
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Posted: 11:50 - 04 May 2022 Post subject: Re: CBT motorbike questions? |
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Randomperson wrote: | Hello there,
i want to get into motorbiking and i've already got my provisional a couple years ago. I know the first step you have to do is complete your CBT (Compulsory basic training) however i have a few questions before booking one.
1. My glasses prescription recentely changed, i know legally eyesight requirment is to be able to read a number plate from 20.5 metres. i was checking the other day to see if i could and i was able to see a car number plate from 5 car parking spaces. is this around 20.5 metres. Also when you get asked is it exactly 20.5 metres? and i'm guessing you only get one chance? I can see perfectly fine also when cycling on roads. With number plates do they ask you to read a car or motorbike number plate or does it depend?
2. Is it better to learn manual or automatic? if you learn manual with no experience how hard is it to get to grips with the clutch and gears?
3. My closest training centre, bikes and gear are borrowed (Helmet, motorbike/moped gloves, jacket, hi-viz) however they don't mention about trousers or boots is it reccomended to bring your own?
4. I'm type 1 diabetic and from applying for my provisonal. I had to fill out forms to do with this so the DVLA is aware and i know the legal requirments you have to do. However is it best to let the CBT instructor know before or during the CBT?
5. When i reaserching it says the only requirment you have to have is your provisonal obviously and that it's helpful if you know how to ride a pushbike (bicycle). I already know how to ride a bicycle but i unless balance is similar. I don't quite get how that helps with motorbikes?. Could someone expand on this further?
6. Are CBT instructors used to teaching people with no experience of motorbiking etc..?
7. Can you fail your cbt?
8. the training place only has automatic mopeds and geared motorbikes. If you were to do your CBT on an automatic moped. I assume your restricted just to automatic moped and can't ride automatic motorbikes or geared motorbiikes etc..
Sorry if some of these questions are weird. I just want to know more info before i book especially as i'm completley new to motorbiking.
(country: England) |
Welcome.
1) Car plate - distance in car lengths is about right
2) Yes as stout as you can find but with some flex to change gear with your left foot.
3) Manual
4) Seems sensible
5) Just balance I guess.
6) Yes
7) Yes, but 'not easily' I heard.
8) Dunno maybe not. ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 12:20 - 04 May 2022 Post subject: |
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Point 8: if you have a CBT certificate for an automatic it's automatic anything but TBH you'll not find many CVT-driven automatic motorcycles.
The main advantage of doing manual is you're also entitled to ride automatics - 2 for 1 deal - that and automatics are for kids ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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UncleFester |
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UncleFester World Chat Champion
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KiwiBob |
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KiwiBob Borekit Bruiser
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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Ste |
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Ste Not Work Safe
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blurredman |
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blurredman World Chat Champion
Joined: 18 Sep 2010 Karma :
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Posted: 15:35 - 04 May 2022 Post subject: |
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Agreed, CBT does not restrict the user in terms of what type of transmission the vehicle was used to do it with.
I did mine on a twisty 125cc. No restrictions there. Then I went on my CG125 and learned gears my own way and in my own time. ____________________ CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, MZ TS150 - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k. |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Zen Dog |
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Zen Dog World Chat Champion
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Posted: 16:25 - 04 May 2022 Post subject: |
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Randomperson wrote: | 7. Can you fail your cbt? |
Yes. Well not fail, but they can refuse to issue you a CBT if they think you're not safe.
When I did a CBT refresher in the mid-2000s the instructor refused to give a cert to the two 17-year olds there on the day. One of them was a bellend (trying to wheelie the scooter he was issued, generally not listening to the instructor) so fair enough. But the other one was just nervous, he'd never been in charge of a motor vehicle before, and the instructor refused to give him the CBT because he'd drifted a bit wide on a roundabout. Which seems like exactly the kind of thing you'd do if you've never been on a motorbike before, and what you'd think the training was FOR.
Seemed a bit harsh to me (and I think the instructor was having a bad day), but that's my experience for what it's worth. ____________________ Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011 |
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yen_powell |
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yen_powell World Chat Champion
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struan80 |
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struan80 World Chat Champion
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Randomperson |
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Randomperson L Plate Warrior
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Zen Dog |
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Zen Dog World Chat Champion
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Posted: 09:43 - 05 May 2022 Post subject: |
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Randomperson wrote: | motorbikes are slightly cheaper than cars. |
In most circumstances, this probably isn't true compared to a small car. Vehicle, tax and insurance costs are probably similar, but with a bike you need to buy a whole load of gear (helmet, jacket, boots etc,).
Fuel will be cheaper on the bike though (and this will become more of a factor if fuel prices continue to increase), but you'll need to keep the vehicle for a while to really start making those savings. And if you keep the bike outside, you're probably looking at more wear and tear than a car.
If it were me, the deciding factor would be where I lived. If you're in the inner city, and traffic congestion and parking space is a major issue, maybe a bike is better. Otherwise, get a car, all else being equal, cars are a lot more practical and convenient day to day. ____________________ Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011 |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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BRUN |
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BRUN Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 15:43 - 05 May 2022 Post subject: |
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1. the place I learned with had number plates on a wall, a set distance away
2. definitely do manual, the gears was something i thought id never get the hang of before i tried, id never been on a bike before, but got used to them fairly quickly
3. legally you dont need any, but personally i would, i was warned steel toe cap boots were not suitable
4. I would tell them, doesnt sound like it will be a problem
5. I am not sure on this part, I already had a full car licence, your experience on a push bike will help a bit as you counter steer on that too
6. yes, i had never been on a bike before ever and I was nearly 40 at the time
7. you can fail but its unlikely, you will need to know the highway code as you will get asked a few questions about rules of the road etc but nothing too technical
8. do all your training on a manual is my advice, honestly you will get used to the gears a lot quicker than you expect |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Evil Hans |
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Evil Hans World Chat Champion
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Zen Dog |
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Zen Dog World Chat Champion
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Posted: 20:40 - 05 May 2022 Post subject: |
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ThunderGuts wrote: | A 125 is way cheaper than a car in all probability - tax, MOT, fuel and servicing (inc consumables such as tyres) are all much cheaper. |
Is it really though? Back of a fag packet calculations but -
YBR125
COST - 1200
TAX - 16
MOT - 30
TYRES - 110
AIR FILTER - 13
TOTAL - 1369 (1869 if you factor in 500 for gear)
CITROEN C1
COST - 1200
TAX - 20
MOT - 50
TYRES - 200
AIR FILTER - 6.5
TOTAL - 1476.5
Even if you don't take the gear into account, it's not a massive saving with the bike. Although the further you're travelling the more you'll save over time in terms of fuel with the YBR being about 100mpg and the C1 being more like 60mpg. I love bikes, but if I could only have one, it was going to be used as a tool to do a job, and I didn't live in a ULEZ/congestion charge area, I'd take the car every time for the extra practicality alone. ____________________ Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011 |
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Keithy |
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Keithy Spanner Monkey
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Fat Angry Scotsman |
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Fat Angry Scotsman World Chat Champion
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Posted: 11:15 - 06 May 2022 Post subject: |
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Zen Dog wrote: | ThunderGuts wrote: | A 125 is way cheaper than a car in all probability - tax, MOT, fuel and servicing (inc consumables such as tyres) are all much cheaper. |
Is it really though? Back of a fag packet calculations but -
YBR125
TAX - 16
MOT - 30
TYRES - 100 (assume £10 a tyre fitting and Conti tyres)
AIR FILTER - 13
OIL (1L) - 9
Fuel (assume 2k miles and 100mpg, £1.60 a litre) - £145
TOTAL - £313 operating costs (without insurance)
CITROEN C1
TAX - 20
MOT - 50
TYRES - 200
AIR FILTER - 6.5
OIL (3L) - 27
Fuel (assume 2k miles and 50mpg) - £290
TOTAL - £594
Even if you don't take the gear into account, it's not a massive saving with the bike. Although the further you're travelling the more you'll save over time in terms of fuel with the YBR being about 100mpg and the C1 being more like 60mpg. I love bikes, but if I could only have one, it was going to be used as a tool to do a job, and I didn't live in a ULEZ/congestion charge area, I'd take the car every time for the extra practicality alone. |
Added / adjusted a bit. I've also taken out the purchase costs because I think in 3 years a YBR will be worth most of what you bought it for, a C1 will probably be worth a lot less - I suspect the difference in residuals is quite substantial. The car is more likely to have electrical gremlins too - there is just a lot more to go wrong, especially on an older car. I'd doubt an old C1 managing that sort of economy either, especially in the real world - I've given a generous 50mpg and a conservative 100mpg for the bike. I don't think you can really count gear either, or at least you need to split it across the years of use as it isn't an annual cost.
A bike can be home serviced with a handful of spanners (for the most part); cars require more skill, tools and knowledge (these days at least). ____________________ TG. |
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Ayrton |
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Ayrton World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 2 years, 30 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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