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clutch slip

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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 12 Jun 2022    Post subject: clutch slip Reply with quote

clutch has started slipping when the bike gets into the powerband, pulls fine until then. neutral can be a bit hard to engage whilst stationary. so im guessing i need new friction plates? bike has done 34500 miles.

wheres the best place to go for parts?
im guessing i will need friction plates, a gasket and also an oring for the pushrod end piece.

also ive just changed the engine oil, will it be ok to reuse it once the new plates are in?
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Ariel Badger
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 12 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you use the right oil, some synthetics will cause clutch slip? You can of course reuse the oil provided it is the right grade.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 09:23 - 13 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can measure them, there will be a specified minimum thickness for both types of plate, check the steel plates for flatness, check the edges of the basket for notches, check the release mechanism for smoothness of operation, if there is a push rod, check it's straight and corrosion free and measure the spring free length.

Anything out of spec needs replacing, most commonly friction plates and springs or some people would just replace them anyway.

Fot checking things are flat and straight, put them on a flat piece of glass and see if they rock about or if you can get a feeler gauge under them.

If it's all ok, clean off the plates in a solvent (petrol works) and give the metal plates a de-glaze by sticking a sheet of wet and dry paper to a sheet of glass using water and rubbing them in a side-to-side motion. Then thoroughly clean off any abrasive residue.

Usually scraping the old gasket off is the biggest bit of the job.

There is an argument for trying to keep the old oil then changing it after a few miles on new clutch plates because they tend to shed a bit of material which will then contaminate the old oil and filter. This can be thrown away with an oil change after 50-100 miles. Others may disagree. If you lean the bike far enough over to the left, you can usually get the clutch changed without losing any oil. Seen it done many times in a rally field.

In terms of sourcing plates and springs, I'd say there is a good argument for OEM parts and they can often be cheaper than pattern ones. I know this was the case last time i did the clutch on my VFR750, Honda did a complete clutch rebuild kit with all the plates, gaskets and springs included in little honda baggies for less than a set of EBC plates. Worth a look in any case.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 09:38 - 13 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just make sure it isn't the push rod which disengages it sticking slightly due to road and chain crud.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 13 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

doggone wrote:
Just make sure it isn't the push rod which disengages it sticking slightly due to road and chain crud.


thanks for the tip. checked it this evening and its nice n clean.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 20:37 - 13 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ariel Badger wrote:
Did you use the right oil, some synthetics will cause clutch slip? You can of course reuse the oil provided it is the right grade.


i used castrol power 1 10w40 4t. semi synthetic.
as far as i know, the oil is ok for my bike.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 14 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I accidentally put fully synthetic into the bike as a stop gap until I was to do a full oil and filter change and my clutch has decided to start slipping. I will be doing a full oil and filter change next week so hopefully it will sort the slippage out.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 14 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've concluded over the years that the oil type doesn't actually cause clutch slip, it just highlights a clutch that was on the verge of letting go anyway.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 03:06 - 15 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I've concluded over the years that the oil type doesn't actually cause clutch slip, it just highlights a clutch that was on the verge of letting go anyway.


Correct. Mostly.

Car type oils with friction modifiers can cause clutch slip but bike oils which won't have friction modifiers only highlight an already weak clutch.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:14 - 15 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

Car type oils with friction modifiers can cause clutch slip but bike oils which won't have friction modifiers only highlight an already weak clutch.


I don't use bike oil in any of my bikes and haven't done for decades (unless it was on a super cheap special offer) and the clutches don't slip.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 15 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I don't use bike oil in any of my bikes and haven't done for decades (unless it was on a super cheap special offer) and the clutches don't slip.


Do you use car oils with friction modifiers?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:52 - 15 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
stinkwheel wrote:
I don't use bike oil in any of my bikes and haven't done for decades (unless it was on a super cheap special offer) and the clutches don't slip.


Do you use car oils with friction modifiers?


Dunno, I use whatever semi-synthetic is cheap.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 16 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put fully synthetic in mine and within a week the clutch started to slip, doing a full oil and filter in a couple of days, just hope that it sorts things out as a clutch change on a GS is a bastard.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 22:17 - 16 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skudd wrote:
I put fully synthetic in mine and within a week the clutch started to slip, doing a full oil and filter in a couple of days, just hope that it sorts things out as a clutch change on a GS is a bastard.

If your GS is an old '80s era Suzuki GS500, GS850, GS1000, then synthetic oil might indeed cause your clutch to slip. All BMW GS bikes utilize a dry, single plate clutch, to the best of my knowledge. Barring a failed rear main seal, synthetic oil could not possibly cause the clutch to slip.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 23:23 - 16 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffyjeff wrote:
Skudd wrote:
I put fully synthetic in mine and within a week the clutch started to slip, doing a full oil and filter in a couple of days, just hope that it sorts things out as a clutch change on a GS is a bastard.

If your GS is an old '80s era Suzuki GS500, GS850, GS1000, then synthetic oil might indeed cause your clutch to slip. All BMW GS bikes utilize a dry, single plate clutch, to the best of my knowledge. Barring a failed rear main seal, synthetic oil could not possibly cause the clutch to slip.


It's worth noting that you can get a friction plate that's oil resistant as well. Thumbs Up
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 05:59 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

It was just that the oil and the slight slipping coincided with each other. It was a strong did what I wanted clutch before this. Still doing an oil change and selling my testicles to get a new clutch. As for fitting, what a bastard of a job that's going to be. The Varadero was an hours job.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skudd wrote:
Still doing an oil change and selling my testicles to get a new clutch..


What did they fetch out of interest?
(asking for a friend).
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 14:53 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Skudd wrote:
Still doing an oil change and selling my testicles to get a new clutch..


What did they fetch out of interest?
(asking for a friend).


I have to ask my soon to be ex-wife if I can have both bollocks back before I can sell them.
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

took the clutch plates out today. tomorrow ill measure things.
any tips for removing the old gasket from the cover. it looks to be very well stuck on.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:05 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Either a gasket scraper or a stanley blade and lots of patience. There are no shortcuts Laughing
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was afraid of that Sad
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its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 17 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stanley blade seems best. A strip of duck tape along the back to save your fingers.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 06:56 - 18 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Stanley blade seems best. A strip of duck tape along the back to save your fingers.


So you are saying that the angle grinder is a no no then? Shocked Laughing
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 07:00 - 18 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skudd wrote:


So you are saying that the angle grinder is a no no then? Shocked Laughing


i was hoping to take my Dremel to it.
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Skudd
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PostPosted: 07:02 - 18 Jun 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

to v or not to v wrote:
Skudd wrote:


So you are saying that the angle grinder is a no no then? Shocked Laughing


i was hoping to take my Dremel to it.


Be a Devil, go on, I dare you, I Double Dare You. Do It, go on, DO IT.
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