Suzuki AP50 : oil mix pump priming?

[marc426]

Hello everyone,

For a reason unknown to me, my google search of a suzuki AP50 board/owner club led me here and for another reason, I decided to stay and try BCF!

I'm a vintage bike/cars (XT125, Motobécane LT2, Honda CB125, BMW E21, Mini, Dodge...) enthusiast and I recently acquired an old suzuki AP50 in quite good shape!

Problem is the following : I cleaned the oil tank (it's a separate lubrication 2stroke) and filled it up with some blue 2stroke synthetic oil.
I then undid the oil fittings at the crank bearing to check if any oil was leaking but...

Nothing... it got a bit greasy at one point but no proper flow to speak of (I was making the engine turn with a drill and a socket).

And though I realise the flow will be very little (2% of the fuel consumption isn't much...) but the oil hoses won't even turn blue of the new oil I put in.

Did I miss a part where I have to prime the pump or something?


Thanks a lot for your help!



Marc

[27cows]

Does the the motor not have to be running to draw 2T in?
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[marc426]

Yes indeed!

But I figured turning it at enough RPM for a certain amount of time would have the same effect (it's a positive displacement oil pump as far as I can see).

I did have it at 5-600 RPM for about 10seconds.

[MarJay]

On Yamaha autolube pumps there is a priming screw that you have to remove and wait for oil to flow through before the pump will work. Does your bike have a screw on the oil pump?
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[marc426]

Well it does have quite a similar screw!

And I did remove it trying to prime it. Some oil leaked but it wasn't "flowing".

I'll try it again tonight.

[27cows]

On the small strokers I'm accustomed to, it can take some little time with the motor running for the oil to make its way up to the carb. Hence using generous amounts in the bore etc being necessary when putting a top end together. It would certainly need to be running to draw oil in, I think.

Re the prime screw, it can often take a few minutes for the oil to emerge in a constant flow.

Nice bike, BTW. One of the classic tiddlers. Though thankfully not reaching the insane prices of the Fizzies as yet.
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[MarJay]

[blurredman]

Pre-mix with half a gallon and go around the block a few times.
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
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[Stonefly]

This ^
You should always pre-mix a 2t after a rebuild to give the engine lube while the pump does its thing.
Did you leave the oil filler cap off while turning the engine over? It may help to do so while the oil finds its way through the oil pipe.
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Current......Kawasaki ZZR1200 C2H and Kawasaki ZZR600 E7
Previous....Yamaha FS1E, Honda SS50, Suzuki AP50, BSA Bantam D14, Honda CD175, Honda CB250N, Kawasaki Z250A3, Yamaha RD250E, Kawasaki Z400, Kawasaki Z500, Kawasaki GPz550, Honda NTV600, Kawasaki GT750, Kawasaki Z1000R, Kawasaki GPX250

[27cows]

If you premix, you're going to be running weak and the chances of a seizure/holed piston increase considerably, IMHO. I have never premixed a bike with a pump and never had any issue.
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The RXS100: vehicle of choice for Chuck Norris

[bladerunner]

Once you have bled the pump....hold the oil pump cable fully open to speed up the oil delivery UNTILL you have purged the old oil out of the lines.
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Current bikes...cbr929, KDX200's, Rd125lc mk2, RGV250's

[blurredman]

[MarJay]

[uberkron]

Most workshop manuals advocate a mix of bleeding the pump and running pre mix. My gp125 had oil fed to the big end bearings and the manual suggested priming the pump, as pre mix doesnt get oil far enough on disc valve two strokes apparently.
My piaggio 2t has no provision for bleeding the pump, the pump is a throwaway item that lasts about 15000km, and the workshop manual advises to run 2 litres of pre mix at 50:1 if air has enterd the oil lines, but the oil is simply admitted after the carb. I have since removed the oil pump and run premix. I had to upjet as it would not run well with oil in the fuel.

If you can bleed it you should and maybe 100:1 as well?o
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[Fat bloke]

I know this is an old post but I have an oil pump problem of my own and found this post and thought I would add my two penny's worth. The Suzuki A50P / other A50 models have an oil pump without a bleed screw. To bleed the system you need to prime the two feed pipes first. The way I did it was to disconnect them from the pump then put a nut and washer on the union, then use a seringe to push 2 stroke oil into the pipe until the pipe is full. Then immediately take the nut and washer off the union and reconnect the union back on the pump. The 2 stroke oil is thick enough not to run out before reconnection. Once this is done put some oil in the oil tank (don't over fill at this stage in case you spill a lot) disconnect the oil in pipe to the oil pump and allow the oil to gravity bleed down to the pump and then connect the union to the pump. Job done. A couple of warnings: Some people are advocating premix, this is dangerous because you are weakening the petrol and therefore making the engine run week which could cause overheating and possible engine damage. There is no need to remove the oil tank cap, the tank has a breather. Make sure you have lubricated the engine internally because there will be some bubbles in the system because the pump itself will have some air in it. Before starting make sure the oil strainer in the oil tank isn't clogged.
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