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RickTaff
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 24 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
yen_powell wrote:
I had a Kawasaki start knocking once. Turned out all that had happened was that one of the rubber boots that blocks off the carb balance ports had fallen off. I was at traffic lights at the time and there was a VW Beetle in front. I thought it was clattering like they do until it pulled away and the rattle stayed with me.

I note you recently balanced the carbs, maybe one wasn't put back properly and it's come off.


I'll check that out. By balance ports you referring to where the vacuum guages plug into the cylinder heads?

I do have 4 pipes already plugged into the cylinders with rubber bungs on the other end to stop air being sucked in... I'll check see if one has come away from the cylinder. Im still convinced it is something innocent as it idled fine, ticked over nicely, and out of nowhere it started. I'll get to the bottom of it Very Happy
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
WD Forte wrote:
vid with audio


Here


If it helps, when RPM raises, noise speeds up, and slows down when RPM drops, obviously.

I have had a mate come have a listen while i recorded that clip, hes a mechanic, suspects a misfire.

As stated in OP, it ticked over lovely and that noise come out of nowhere, roughly 4mins or so into warming up
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RickTaff
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Here is a vid of the bastard noise lol.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Not sure what it is but I don't like it
Sounds rough as a bears ass to me but it may be the phone mic
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RickTaff
Nitrous Nuisance



Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
WD Forte wrote:
Not sure what it is but I don't like it
Sounds rough as a bears ass to me but it may be the phone mic


Most likely is the phone, its not the most high quality.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
That doesn't sound very nice. I'd be suspicious of a blocked slow running jet making one pot drop out at idle speeds. My VFR was just doing this and it sounded like a Ducati at idle

Are any of the header pipes leaking?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
stinkwheel wrote:
That doesn't sound very nice. I'd be suspicious of a blocked slow running jet making one pot drop out at idle speeds. My VFR was just doing this and it sounded like a Ducati at idle

Are any of the header pipes leaking?


No header leaks, no. I'm starting to lean away from it being a big end bearing knock, as that's apparently more of a bang, as oppose to the almost rattle sound of my video.

As i posted above i had someone listen to it on my phone, and a misfire was suggested to me. Theory was due to E10 perhaps pre igniting or causing early detonation, it's effectively burnt my spark plugs and cause one, even 2 cylinders to drop. And im running on 2, as oppose to 4...
Worth swapping the fuel for E5 and trying new plugs i suppose, anyway
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
RickTaff wrote:
. Theory was due to E10 perhaps pre igniting or causing early detonation,


Wow, E10 is a real bogeyman right? Sounds like your mechanic friend is obsessed. E10 can have negative effect on older bikes, but it's not immediate and it's a case of slowly causing issues with making fuel pipes brittle or corroding some brass parts. This'll take a LOT of time, and only happen if you let those parts sit in E10 for a long time. I'd suggest not routinely using E10, but one or two tanks full every now and again is not going to do any harm at all.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:


Wow, E10 is a real bogeyman right? Sounds like your mechanic friend is obsessed. E10 can have negative effect on older bikes, but it's not immediate and it's a case of slowly causing issues with making fuel pipes brittle or corroding some brass parts. This'll take a LOT of time, and only happen if you let those parts sit in E10 for a long time. I'd suggest not routinely using E10, but one or two tanks full every now and again is not going to do any harm at all.


Agreed. As a fuel it will make the sum total of fuck all difference in terms of the bike running unless it is very highly tuned with an advanced ignition and raised compression where you might notice the difference between 95 and 98 octane.

Even then, you wouldn't notice at tickover, it would onyl be an issue with the engine under load. My mates 400bhp supercharged drag bike would run on pump unleaded as long as you didn't go over 5,000rpm.

The fuel grade is not the problem. Running ti very low on fuel and getting small bits of crap from the bottom of the tank into the fuel system could be.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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RickTaff
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Joined: 28 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 25 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
RickTaff wrote:
. Theory was due to E10 perhaps pre igniting or causing early detonation,


Wow, E10 is a real bogeyman right? Sounds like your mechanic friend is obsessed. E10 can have negative effect on older bikes, but it's not immediate and it's a case of slowly causing issues with making fuel pipes brittle or corroding some brass parts. This'll take a LOT of time, and only happen if you let those parts sit in E10 for a long time. I'd suggest not routinely using E10, but one or two tanks full every now and again is not going to do any harm at all.


I suspect its because he is now fully fixated on it being a misfire causing the noise. I'll end up slinging it into a garage, not a dealership though. £90 an hour labour round here dealerships. £50 plus Vat is cheapest if i remember right. Independent mechanic in town....

£90 is Fucking outrageous - stealerships very apt name
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 08:58 - 26 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Most modern dealerships won't have any technicians left who remember your bike. Most won't even know what a carburettor is. Take it to an old school mechanic - independent but works on older bikes - possibly used to work for a dealer in the 90s.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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A100man
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Joined: 19 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 26 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
RickTaff wrote:
it's effectively burnt my spark plugs and cause one, even 2 cylinders to drop


has it though? let's see them. Yes it sound lik its running on two but my guess it will be any of coils, plug caps or actual plugs...

I had a single plug cap fail on my FZ and it took two cylinders out and also sounded terrible. you need good continuity on the full cicuit if there s a shared coil on cylinders 1/4 and 2/3.
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Zen Dog
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Joined: 11 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 23:58 - 28 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
MarJay wrote:
Most modern dealerships won't have any technicians left who remember your bike. Most won't even know what a carburettor is. Take it to an old school mechanic - independent but works on older bikes - possibly used to work for a dealer in the 90s.


There's a guy local to me, was the mechanic in a Honda dealer for 25 years, now an independent. I wanted to get the valve clearances done on the VFR800 and I thought he'd be ideal. He put me off for months saying it was a winter job, fair enough. When I finally spoke to him about it (and we had clearly established that it was a pre-vtec 800FI), he told me that any noises that I was hearing from the top end were probably the camchain. But the 5th gen VFR doesn't have a camchain, it's the last gear driven version.

I don't know whether that should have put me off, but it did. I don't want to know more than the guy doing the work, even though he's undoubtedly more experienced than me at actually doing it. I remember stinkwheel saying years ago something along the lines of "you can only really trust work on the bike you've done yourself". And it's true. But I hate that it's true because I'm a mechanical moron. Confused
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Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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to v or not to v
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Joined: 24 Nov 2020
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 29 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Zen Dog wrote:
I remember stinkwheel saying years ago something along the lines of "you can only really trust work on the bike you've done yourself". And it's true. But I hate that it's true because I'm a mechanical moron. Confused


same here. id love to be able to check/adjust my valves, dismantle and clean the carbs, but its way beyond my abilities. and paying someone else to do it would cost nearly as much as the bike is worth i imagine. Sad
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 29 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
to v or not to v wrote:
id love to be able to check/adjust my valves


I'm doing it on my 750 at the moment. But I'm only willing to risk it because the bike is worth basically nothing, and as such it's a minimal consequence learning opportunity. It's not too bad, if you're taking your time with a haynes manual in hand. We'll see if it goes bang the first time I try to start it...
____________________
Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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Irezumi
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Joined: 07 Dec 2019
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 29 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote
Zen Dog wrote:
to v or not to v wrote:
id love to be able to check/adjust my valves


I'm doing it on my 750 at the moment. But I'm only willing to risk it because the bike is worth basically nothing, and as such it's a minimal consequence learning opportunity. It's not too bad, if you're taking your time with a haynes manual in hand. We'll see if it goes bang the first time I try to start it...

Double check, then check again.

And write everything down.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 1 year, 268 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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