Sidestand interlock switches.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I was explaining to an elderly neighbour with a long and cool history of biking that I thought the R1 had a faulty safety switch, but later I wondered whether he understood. When did side-stand safety switches come into being?

Edit: changed title from ‘Safety switches’.

[ZebraDriver]

My GPz 1100 had one in 1982

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Likewise, when did throttle position sensors come in?

[WD Forte]

Any fuel injected bike will have a tps so that gives an indication
but it's also possible to have one on a carbed bike.
Well, kinda...
My scooty has one which sends a signal to the ignition controller
to advance the ignition when the throttle opens.
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bikers smell of wee

[MarJay]

It might help if you use what (I think) is the correct terminology. I've never heard of it referred to as a safety switch, I think the actual name is 'sidestand interlock switch'.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[Ste]

What MarJay says.

[xX-Alex-Xx]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[xX-Alex-Xx]

Deffo the sidestand switch is buggered then.
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DILLIGAF

[stinkwheel]

I remember seeing some bikes that had a mechanical sidestand safety that retracted the stand with a cable when you pulled the clutch in.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[WD Forte]

IIRC My K100RS had that feature
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bikers smell of wee

[Bhud]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[WD Forte]

Test dont guess
The side stand stand switch is either open or closed
on up/down operation
Stick meter on it

You can live without one or while waiting on a new one of course
you just need to know the expected state when up ( RUN)
and force that condition by either leaving it disconnected or
shorting the leads together with a wire link.

You wouldn't be the first
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bikers smell of wee

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I vaguely recall sticking a meter on the clutch switch which I thought was OK, and I did the same with a plug I thought went to the side stand switch but since the wire crosses the bike left to right via a wrapped loom I’m not sure I was looking at the right connector. I’ll start again.

[xX-Alex-Xx]

[B1N]

I've had a look at the diagram for an R1, there are two diodes in the fusebox, it would be well worth checking those diodes, there is also a relay too (safety relay?) but I think that should be fine if the bike actually starts OK.
In fact I think that relay will be killing the engine when you select gear, see if you can find out what is tripping it.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Now that the garage isn’t an oven and I’ve had my summer biking fun on the ZX6R I’ve returned to this problem with the R1 and found pretty severe corrosion on a relay under the seat (part number 5PW-81950-00, £120 new). The prongs on the relay cleaned up well but I’m worried that it got inside. The connector was harder to clean and I think it might still be a mess inside, then I spotted a “hatch” on the side. It looks like it ought to prise out it won’t come, instead it’s deforming. Has anyone seen anything like it before?

https://i.postimg.cc/ZK0j5M0c/369078-F3-0-E01-4127-A491-5210-E6-ACB24-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/QCYbqpY1/3-B264-E5-E-6176-47-E1-8392-ED5692-CB2-B3-B.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/qqvwnmwp/93-C4478-B-517-A-40-B0-BDD1-FD702126-C104.jpg
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'93 Yamaha XJR400 grey import (p-ex’d), '99 Kawasaki ZX6R (nicked), another '99 ZX6R (still got it) and '03 Yamaha YZF-R1 (still got that too.)

[Easy-X]

That's not the way to de-pin those. Pretty sure each of the metal connections will have a little leaf-spring* trapping them in the plug. You can get special tools but you can usually get away with a needle to tease down the side, close the leaf spring and pull the wire out.

*A little finger of metal at an angle so you can get the connector into the plug easily but it won't pull out.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I’ve never had much luck with “de-pinning”. I expect there’s a knack to it but looking at the tight bundle of short, tiny wires emerging from the wrapped loom and into that connector I’d like to avoid it.

I’m wondering if the “hatch” was a device used in assembly which might therefore offer good access for a clean-up, so I’m gauging whether to use ultimate force on it.

I’ve read on some other forum that this relay has a role in the sidestand interlock and I’ve already observed that a new sidestand switch (plugged in but not installed) doesn’t solve the original problem. Neither does re-connecting the cleaned-as-far-as-possible relay and connector, so I can’t eliminate the possibility that corrosion has entered the sealed relay. I might have to buy a new one.

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Well, I managed to “de-pin” the most corroded terminal which happens to be the most likely cause of the problem, but in doing so I’ve knackered it so I’ve had to identify the type (Sumimoto TS090 female), find a UK vendor and order above their minimum ordering level of a fiver. I ordered an excess plus some blade fuses.

The connector block is a ‘hybrid’ meaning it has different sized terminals (for no reason) so there seems to be no chance of getting a matching replacement. Poor engineering.

I had resorted to a Stanley knife, a flat screwdriver and thin-nosed pliers to cut, prise and tear that “hatch” away, which usefully exposed the metal terminals. It turns out that the offending terminal had snapped inside and it was never coming out without this new exit route. I sprayed another load of contact cleaner in and it all looked ok but the offending terminal had exposed wire and ultimately it broke off.

Disappointed to have to wait again for parts before getting it running properly, but I’ll get there.

https://i.postimg.cc/RFYfrL0p/9B319E9C-91F8-492A-85C8-245652BED114.png

https://i.postimg.cc/nzr7wPnQ/870D3994-BE4C-4C92-A475-796D87883565.jpg

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Incidentally the Haynes manual calls it a safety circuit.

[B1N]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Interestingly these fairly crucial terminals were only crimped at the factory, not soldered. With that in mind I decided to do the same with the new Sumitomo TS90 replacement pin but that requires a correctly-matched crimp tool, not one of your common or garden crimpers which are typically for pre-sealed connectors of the type found in Halfords*. I’ve had to order a tool from Japan and they’re not cheap, but the job’s worth doing right.

*I rate much of Halfords’ stuff very highly these days but when it comes to electrical connectors it’s stuff you’d use on a car stereo, not stuff which might leave you stranded.

[Easy-X]

I got a crimping set from FleaBay with assorted jaws, something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353762355852

Does for most connectors I've come across.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter