Removal of frame number

[Bhud]

I was just thinking of getting a frame for an old bike (registered after April 1980) sandblasted and powder coated. No modifications. Right now, the frame number stamped into the headstock is visible. It isn't very deep or very clear, but it can be read. Also, I've got the V5C, which has the correct frame number and engine number in it.

Problem: treatment to frame is likely to remove visible letters and numbers. After having done so, I don't want to be in a situation where I have to, for some legal reason, take some sandpaper to the frame and ruin the coat.

My idea: take a photo of the frame number at the headstock. Then go ahead and get it all done. Once done, stamp a bit of thin aluminium with the original frame number, and glue it onto the headstock.

Any ideas? Is this a recipe for trouble, or will it put off a future buyer?

Here's what I found:

https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1986/1078/regulation/67/made

(3) The vehicle identification number of every vehicle to which this regulation applies shall be marked on the chassis, frame or other similar structure, on the off side of the vehicle, in a clearly visible and accessible position, and by a method such as hammering or stamping, in such a way that it cannot be obliterated or deteriorate.

I don't know how the above has been interpreted, but "such as" would suggest, to me, that there could be another lawful method of marking the frame number, which isn't "hammering or stamping", i.e. it needn't be hammered or stamped, but something else could suffice.
A hammered or stamped bit of aluminium glued or brazed onto the headstock, then?

How about, simply nothing? Nice, clean appearance, plus would have the photos of the old headstock and the V5C.

[WD Forte]

How about taking and storing/printing pics of the original
to show its poor (and getting poorer) state and then getting
a VIN plate made ?
On of my old bikes had a partially obscured VIN number stamped on the headstock but an alloy VIN plate pop riveted to the rear subframe.
This never caused any comment or gave me any problems over the
years with MOTs etc.


If buying a plate make sure it's properly stamped or sufficiently engraved not laser etched, so after a couple of years when/if the oxidisation hits it, it isnt obscured.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Nobby the Bastard]

Speak to dvla. Get permission to restamp the numbers. I'll refer you to the rs2000 episode of wheeler dealers.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Triumph Sprint ST 1050

[Ste]

Can use a laser rather than hammering or stamping.

[Bhud]

[slowasyoulike]

I have done precisely this. After having the frame of one of my old CN250s powder coated, I found the frame number - which was previously pretty clear - no longer readable. I couldn't find anywhere I fancied riveting a replacement to, so I Araldited a brass plate that I punched to suit (punches £not much from eBay) to a bit of frame easily accessible for MOTs etc. No problem with subsequent MOTs, and I very much doubt Plod (assuming I ever meet an actual live traffic cop) would have a clue either.

Knowing that not everyone is as upstanding a citizen as my good self, however, I might view such a bike with extreme suspicion were I looking at it with a view to purchasing. In that situation you might well find yourself sanding off the powder in order to achieve a sale...

[Islander]

Why not just get the powder coater to mask off the frame number and just apply some clear lacquer afterwards to protect it?

[Easy-X]

[WD Forte]

I doubt hand engraving will look anything other than dodgy as fuck
esp on a headstock tube.
Just stick a pre engraved plate on the frame and do the above
mentioned DVLA paperwork/reputable garage sign off if you need to be certain sure.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Bhud]

[kgm]

First frame I had done they blasted the VIN enough to make it worn enough that even sanding back the powder slightly meant it wasn’t visible. I considered just restamping but in the end I just got an official looking vin plate and had it engraved. No issues in 6 years.

Second frame I asked them to be careful of the vin and they were able to powder coat that area thin enough that it was still visible. Still looks good 5 years later.

[Bhud]

I must say, there are an interesting array of options. Gives me something to think about. One way or another, something will be done.

Don't want to go into too much detail about the engraving thing, as it could be information useful to some real crooks (I don't care about strictly not-by-the-book customs, but the provenance of a frame and all bike parts is important to me). However, a couple of years ago I foolishly stripped a frame to bare metal, then primed it, then painted it (now I know to never paint a frame). Obviously, I'm a normie and the bike was fully legit. V5C and correct frame number, and stamped from the factory. The stamping didn't look particularly shallow, but all it took was a couple of coats of spray paint black and the frame number just disappeared. I frantically sanded back and there was hardly anything there. Just remains of black point in the very shallow recesses of the letters. But I figured out a technique then and there with not-particularly-special tools to make what was there, deeper.

[Ste]

[Bhud]

I think we can tick this one off as solved. Down to the powder coaters then and ask them to mask off the number, and demask only to do the thinnest coat over that area. Thanks to all

[WD Forte]

[Bhud]

[slowasyoulike]

[stinkwheel]

Alkyd resin skip paint through a £15 chinese spray gun:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWkmRJRp5orHkCYBV1Iox-1OW2SFtjnwqaO2tH0p-_GQXT3VAunwx65hqqkbFgj03fogZbpfjXrY9ZfDy-pSygN1iUS1l5_VgvzDhtCkToDTjSBtjxNFEJxn95ecGYGR2kQZS31kJLsJedTk_HVTNq0=w1182-h886-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Bhud]

That's very cool. Don't know if you've looked at garden gate paint, but that also goes on thick and heavy and glossy. It's a look!

I like the BCF bike ethos, and also the ratty shabby-chic look. Maintaining and riding a bike in all conditions at all times is nothing short of laudable. I can do that. However, the looks side of things has never been my strong suit. I'm just not a very visual person. I had a matt black ratter 600 once. A few things I did with that made it look like a right old heap (I even made a blocky-looking fairing), and I had to set it "right" (normal-ish) with some crappy parts. It was in perfect working order but hard to sell, and I had to knock down the price a lot. Not to mention, an open 4-into-1 and a raised claw in relief coming out of the top of the tank seems very cool in conception but when realised in the flesh, it's a bit too much. Like showing off big biceps in a muscle shirt, in the dead of snowy winter. Or a cold-eyed escort dressed in club gear, in Aldi. Bad examples, but you get my drift. I like a certain rough and ready look, but when you're painting anything, even in matt, it's a case of needing personal and situational and social awareness of proportion, shades, matching, tones, etc.

The bike meet standard seems to be very high for aesthetics (good, I guess) and very low for operability and practicality (bad). It would take little to tempt me to paint a bike. But at the end of the day, painting doesn't suit the obsessive mindset. It's too easy to fall into the trap of painting scenes from Excalibur 1981 (awesome movie btw) all over your bike, just because you can...