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Honda CBF125 losing electrics when at low revs

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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 18:31 - 07 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
WD Forte wrote:
AC lights?
You sure?
t'internet says it was made from 2009 on I would have expected better than that old 1970s type lighting.
I haven't seen a wiring diagram but the parts fiche shows a modern looking stator, with finned regulator and PGM-FI


I thought that as well, my first post reads,

my 125's headlamp, side light and rear tail light are powered directly from the alternator. As such if you stall the bike these lights go out. The indicators will still work as will the brake light because these are fed from the battery.


So you expect a separate feed from the regulator to the lights bypassing the whole battery side? In which case why bother?

Clearly you don't get electrics either.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 18:36 - 07 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

To explain, an alternator kicks out DC.

If it's kicking out DC, why create seperate outputs from it to seperate the lighting circuit from the battery side?

It makes sense using AC because, as Stinkers says, you can use two dioides and power the battery side with the positive side of the sin wave and the lights with the negative side.

it doesn't make sense and complicates the wiring for anything DC.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:25 - 07 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here we go. Found a wiring diagram.

Yes I was correct. Split single phase charging system. 12V negative earth DC from the battery for accessories. Positive earth, halfwave AC direct lighting for the head and tail lights. Manual confirms should have a 35/35W headlamp.
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 09:44 - 08 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Robby wrote:
I grew up in the sticks, I'm familiar with your pain.

The high wattage headlamp doesn't fix the problem. To be honest, nothing much does on bikes with direct lighting, apart from learning to use a lower gear and keep the revs up in corners.

It's a ballache, but you just need to ride slower and more carefully at night to keep within the limits of your headlight.


In fairness, those LEDs I linked to are properly effective. Mrs stinkwheels wave now has a headlamp which is entirely adequate for its available road speed, even in total darkness on rural roads.


Some LED bulbs suffer the same issue as when folk were shoving HIDs in their lamp housings as an upgrade.

It's all about the reflector.

The reflector and bulb is matched. Where the light source is positioned in the lamp can affect the light output in several ways.

Shape of the beam.
Brightness of the beam.
And the direction of the beam.
It may fail MOT test is the light beam is tested and it is too far out of alignment.

Where did the OP go anyway?
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



Joined: 16 May 2002
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 08 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
To explain, an alternator kicks out DC.



An alternator kicks out AC. That's why half of the job of a reg/rec is to rectify the AC to DC.

AC lighting on vehicles is an abomination.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



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PostPosted: 10:56 - 08 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

An alternator has an integral reg rec in it. A stator needs a separate reg rec.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 08 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alternators are also more efficient because they can control the field coils so if only light output is needed they will have a lesser braking effect on the motor.
Permanent magnet Stators and reg/recs produce power all the time and dump/waste unused power as heat.
This rather negates the point of using leds purely because cos they use less power,
They're more useful/efficient on bikes with very limited stator output.
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Savage3000
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 14 Jun 2021
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 11 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
I grew up in the sticks, I'm familiar with your pain.

The high wattage headlamp doesn't fix the problem. To be honest, nothing much does on bikes with direct lighting, apart from learning to use a lower gear and keep the revs up in corners.

It's a ballache, but you just need to ride slower and more carefully at night to keep within the limits of your headlight.



This is how I have been riding, keeping the revs up.

I did try cleaning all the connections up, see if that solved anything, but no luck with that.

Just popped into Halfords on the way home for them to do a battery check, but all the information they could provided was “yeah you need a new battery”, because that’s all the machine said, with no other information. Although he might well be right that I do need a new battery, it came across as though it was the first time he had used the machine. It was certainly the first time he had ever tested a bike battery anyway.

Also, sorry if this message posts 100 times, website is playing up for me
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:05 - 11 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

You went to Halfords two days in a row?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 11 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

If that wiring diagram I found is correct, the battery has nothing to do with the headlight. It runs all the other lights, the fuel injection and electric start. The head and tail lights are totally seperate.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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xX-Alex-Xx
World Chat Champion



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PostPosted: 19:20 - 11 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
You went to Halfords two days in a row?


Most people do. First time to buy something. Second time to return it.
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