Can’t find correct regulator for my Chinese Bike

[Wattybanker]

Been working on a Pioneer XF125L-4B over the summer this year. Recently it’s had a new wiring loom put in. I had a problem with the fuse blowing, circuit drain, things not working. The new loom seems to have remedied this but I noticed a corroded terminal on my regulator and I feel that’s probably my problem.

I’m not at all experienced in Electronics, beside a computer this is my first foray into dealing with an electrical system on this scale. So it’s very hard for me to get my head around the wiring diagram to accurately follow which wire goes where and leads to what. Online resources aren’t a lot of help. The wires in the physical loom don’t exactly match the diagram either.

The wiring diagram is here on page 41 https://pdfslide.net/amp/documents/pioneer-xf125l-4b-owners-manual.html

The reason I’m saying all this is because I’m struggling to find a replacement rectifier for this particular circuit, as well as wiring this bitch up. I seemed to have a complete circuit, beside the brake light being stuck on before the fuse blew again. The regulator is a difficult find because unlike many modern ones. The one I’ve got has a 5-6pins as well as a negative wire that connects to the negative terminal on the battery, with a green grounding wire extending from that connection as well. Most modern ones lack this extra wire that seems essential to completing the circuit.

Any advice or guidance on the subject (beside burning the whole thing and getting something else) would be extremely helpful. This is the biggest road block I’ve hit so far preventing me from enjoying the bike.

Some extra information I’ll fill in here for anyone that’s feeling extra helpful. My main reasons for fucking with the electronics on this bike was because of a drain in the circuit that was rinsing the battery in 1 day as well as the fact that my lights weren’t getting bright enough. The speedo, rev-counter, mileage clock and fuel gauge were all non-functioning or semi-working. Strangeness such as the rev-counter being unable to go about 6k. So originally just wanted to get to the bottom of that, which I’m still scratching my head on.

[WD Forte]

Took a few seconds to find on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185599524132?

A regulator is a regulator so any 3 phase reg/rec will probably do
especially on a chinese bike.

Edit:

Hang on just had look at that shitty, grainy diagram
It doesn't use a common 3 phase regrec

the diagram shows the stator has
2 phase wires to the RR
1 is for the AC source coil to the CDI box
2 for the pulser connections to the cdi box
and possibly 1 for ground, no colour shown
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bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

What's shown on the wiring diagram does not tally with what you describe in your post.

No ground connection on the reg/rec on the diagram, it looks like a single phase split lighting/charging coil on the diagram similar to the setup on a CBF125.

Maybe post a picture of what you've got?

EDIT: OPs wiring diagram attached:

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/chinesewiring.png
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Wattybanker]

[Nobby the Bastard]

First off it doesn't have a 3 phase stator.

The regulator should be just a single diode with only 2 wires attached, not a 5/6 wire arrangement.

3 phase stators have 3 (typically yellow) wires coming out of them off which you can get about 13-24v AC from any pair.

Always assuming that is the correct wiring diagram....
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

That wire you have in your hand is a honking great big thick earth wire. It has nothing to do with the reg/rec, it's just attaching to the frame with a ring terminal using one of the same frame mounting bolts as the reg/rec. You usually only see wire that thick going to a starter motor, I wonder if it's been added later to try to fix a bad earth? In any case, it wont do any harm to leave it connected.

I should point out the frame on your bike acts as an earth connection, all the metal bits of the bike attach electrically to the battery negative. According to your wiring diagram there should be two wires attached to the battery negative, one going to the loom, the other going to a frame earth connection, both of the black and white.

I wonder if that's the original reg/rec. In any case the wire colours do not match the wiring diagram. The diagram shows a red, yellow, pink, black on white and black.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

I'll add that the wiring diagram above is very difficult too interpret, it's so fuzzy that the little dots that indicate two crossing wires making a connection can't be seen.

I'm pretty sure it's got two charging phases (pink and yellow), a red output, and a black and white earth. The black I'm not certain about, I think it's proibably a "sense" wire to monitor the voltage in the loom.

I found this which looks very similar to what you have on the bike in your picture, right down to the wiring colours:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172427411264
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Nobby the Bastard]

It's a bit weird. The (I'm assuming) Red and Yellow wires are a normal rectifier wiring but then there's loads of offshoots on the other 3 wires that go to various lights and the ignition.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

[Nobby the Bastard]

Got that the pink and yelow was the charging phase. Thinking it's fully rectified as per what we discussed before.

Edit: Thios could be the solution for your enfield lighting issue. Earth from the coil and earth the suitable connection from that rectifier will fully rectify your AC ouput.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[WD Forte]

You say the colours don't match what you have
Just found this Lexmoto one which is functionally very similar
and may help ( its even got a fuel gauge)
Dunno what bike its for but Lexmoto use Honda colour conventions
for the most part.
Stick some pics up of what you actually have


https://imgur.com/iF5h8vf.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

[WD Forte]

Ahh I must have missed that pic link
Better, but some closer detail would help more.
He's obviously holding a ground wire but it looks like an afterthought to me as RR heat sinks are insulated from the inner electronics
so instead of bolting it that, it would better fitted directly to the engine case and frame to get full benefit.
I reckon he needs a 4 wire RR for 2 AC in and 2 DC out
the 2 pulser wires may share the original connector this is only a convenience and they could easily have their own connector.

Dead easy to sort out if we had it to hand, but remotely via
vague forum posts and dodgy images is always trickier.
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

[WD Forte]

Incidentally, My current theory is the black wire shown in the lexmoto diagram and on the ebay RR I pointed to is a feed back link to assist regulation and compensate for voltage drops and not any kind of power output.
A lot of 70's Hondas had them I always just patched mine to battery pos cos they were a PITA
if they suffered form poor contacts the output would start to float

A few tests with a meter would help test this theory and also test whether he dpes actually need a new RR
or just getting the botched wiring sorted out.
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bikers smell of wee

[Wattybanker]

[WD Forte]

Good pics that allow folk to see the connectors location, cable colours etc plus context pics (step back so we can where they are located and what they connected related to) will be very useful

The one you're holding can be taken off for now and re attached later
between battery negative and where it will do most good.
ie battery to frame and engine

If it is Lexmoto made then that will help as they do tend to follow Honda cable colours, probably because they've copied many of their bikes

Get a meter !!
£20 will get you a good meter with proper 4mm leads* and a nice big display that will save you hours and pounds in the long run on this and other machines

* meter lead are consumables which eventually wear out
or get damaged, being able to swap out for a good set or different probes can be very useful,
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bikers smell of wee