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Cbf 125 headlight not working

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mariust5
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Cbf 125 headlight not working Reply with quote

Hello everyone , been reading the forum a while but never posted before .
I got a 2011 CBF125 for my son as his 1st bike off Marketplace , seller did say that the lights might need sorting and i'm up for a challenge usually but this one has me beat .

The bike has aftermarket switches, lights and dials and the wiring is a little on the bad side but it all works part from the main beam headlight and the dials won't light up .

Indicators work , brake lights also , there is a little bulb in the headlight assembly also and that comes on when the engine is running but sometimes flickering so that leads me to believe it might be the stator ?

Would the engine still run fine if the stator was bad ? I tried to take the cover off for a visual inspection but on removal of top bolt from chain cover something was coming out like some sort of oil and did it back up .

I had friend that knows how to handle a Multimeter and he said there was no power coming in to the bulb , we checked the bulb directly to the battery and it works . We had the dials light up at some point but i disconnected the wire from where it was and can't replicate it Sad

If anyone has any ideas please let me know .

Thanks .
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would suggest that there are two issues.

The dash lights.

The headlight.

The dash lights, well, you need to and trace both the earth and power wiring from and to it. You clearly know it's fixable because you hadthem working.

The headlight. The common thing with the dipped and main beam for the headlight is the dipped and main switch. Does power get to it?

For both of these you need a wiring diabram to give you a clue as to what colour wire you should be looking for.
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://imgur.com/a/Ng7M5zh
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I say we take off and nuke it from orbit.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

The headlight will only work when the engine is running. It is powered directly from the generator via a fairly complex yet at the same time basic split halfwave charging system. The battery has nothing to do with the headlamp function.

The standard headlamp is a bit pish and it's not uncommon for owners to fit a higher wattage bulb (it should have a 35/35w bulb). This is a bad idea because it overloads the system. They can burn out wiring componants and melt the headlamp lens.

Find the reg/rec. The lighting output is in the yellow wire. Check for voltage between here and earth (either bare metal on the bike or the green wire) with it connected and the engine running. You should get a DC output which climbs to 12-ish volts as revs increase. It will be dirty DC and it will be positive earth (and so will read a negative voltage if you connect the common lead of the meter to earth). Some meters may not read it on the DC setting and need to be set to AC.

If you have 12-ish volts here, the charging system and reg/rec are working. The problem lies upstream (so switch or wiring). If you have no output here, the problem is most likely with the reg/rec. Because it is a split coil, if it's charging the battery and running the engine, it should also be producing a lighting output.

Here's a wiring diagram.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:14 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/qbvEc55.jpeg
Holy fucking shitballs!!

Buy a new loom. Rip all that shit out and fit the new one. This is the easy way, you will never be done messing with it if you try to fix that rats-nest.

Best £20 you'll ever spend, believe me! You could probably resell all those wago blocks to cover the cost.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174828070669
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you spend another £50 or so, you can get a set of used switches and clocks.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ha , ha , thanks for the reply Smile

I looked to get some original parts but there are brackets and mounts that are missing and the total cost is beyond me at the moment .

About buying new switch i will be in the same boat as these look new just badly wired and prolonged with more wires as not long enough .

Only thing i'd do is the old twist the 2 wires together and tape over . Get rid of the blocks Smile

https://imgur.com/nLXMewP
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 22:45 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the Headlight unit

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125367262666?hash=item1d30789dca:g:5JMAAOSw0qNiT8n6&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8CilnVESvQdhIRNMcS1MX96xqFCbdJCZrZmsO2FKXvEYENEB3tAcJPDFXmqh779d5SU3QLJu6PRN8ZY8A3ma%2FvOlX6PwPdUfGg37YhFH1o5IrbHNStFwhfsWt8Rq3pt8iyaZmOT3u1yWIffD7nwsVKfy5hTeSCz3MJJd7m4lThTiXhTvsbyTOIrPX5fT1Nrd1ACTPqzM5z9UAXorjxdt1CL89vRQ13yC9PuDb3wmHW2NiQRo3BIwdAbGOsLQgPd5%2FnItaKK8Px76K0jHXGdoj72V%2BNDWWf7fwl8TaCiZasAIffba3xrD7Uo0bHGpx8fS4w%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8yj4tKCYQ
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy fuck .... Yeah just rip it out and replace the lot. At least go with OEM style connectors and not Wago...
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:50 - 26 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

mariust5 wrote:

Only thing i'd do is the old twist the 2 wires together and tape over . Get rid of the blocks Smile


You're not too old to get your arse smacked!

Ideally use crimp connectors applied with the correct crimping tool. If you can't do that, use soldered splices covered with shrink tube.

Or the new kids on the block which are heat-shrink, self-solder butt connectors which come with the solder already in them ready to rock. Slide one over the wire, twist them together, set this in the middle and heat it with a heatgun/small blowlamp/lighter. You can buy a huge bag of them for sweetie money on ebay.

https://youtu.be/r7GlDBge_WU

https://i.imgur.com/nLXMewP.jpeg

Yes, that's the reg/rec. With the engine running and it connected, you should be getting 12-ish volts between the yellow and green wires.

If you disconnect it, you should be able to measure a fairly low resistance between the white and green wires of the connector which is the generator coil (probably in the ballpark of 4-10 ohms but I don't know the exact reading for that bike). Shouldn't be zero and shouldn't be very high in the kilo-ohm range. You ought to get an AC voltage output between the green and white wires if you run the engine with the reg/rec disconnected, it will fluctuate a lot, it could also give you a dunt so don't hold the ends of the probes in your bare hands.

If that's the case, charging system is all good.

Let'sa face it though. the wiring is going to be the problem here!























































edited to make thread longer, as posting error.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 18:57 - 28 Oct 2022; edited 1 time in total
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 16:32 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Smile

I'm not much good with Multimeters , i've let my friend do all that .

New development , we've opened the switch to see if something's amiss there and didn't find anything , just my friend said that there is no power coming to it , i take it it needs 12v from the stator . i wish we didn't as next day i've come to it most wires disconnected so i've soldered them back in but now the left hand side indicator doesn't work anymore even if touching the wires together without the switch . The indicator itself is fine as touched some wires and they came on just not from where they should . Off !!

The dash light came on again but gone off and can't replicate it ..

If anyone can tell me how to set up the meter to read those resistances i'd appreciate it please .

This is my meter https://imgur.com/a/Ng7M5zh
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Rob Fzs
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're going to be chasing bodged wiring forever

just buy a loom off ebay, i might even have one in my shed you can have for 15 quid

i've reframed a cbf and there's not much to them
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking on youtube it doesn't seem that my meter has a Diode Mode Sad

And this is my friends Meter , seems too simple , not for Automotive i think https://imgur.com/WQsJIII
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

mariust5 wrote:
You're going to be chasing bodged wiring forever

just buy a loom off ebay, i might even have one in my shed you can have for 15 quid

i've reframed a cbf and there's not much to them


I see what you're saying but there are no looms on the ends of the dash , switches or lights so i'll have to cut the ones i get anyway unless i'm not seeing something ?


Last edited by mariust5 on 16:56 - 28 Oct 2022; edited 1 time in total
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
I say we take off and nuke it from orbit.


This.
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Rob Fzs
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

mariust5 wrote:
mariust5 wrote:
You're going to be chasing bodged wiring forever

just buy a loom off ebay, i might even have one in my shed you can have for 15 quid

i've reframed a cbf and there's not much to them


I see what you're saying but there are no looms on the ends of the dash , switches or lights so i'll have to cut the ones i get anyway unless i'm not seeing something ?


buy some good waterproof connectors and reattach , or get new switches/ light looms

i'll see what i have tomorrow
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'00 Aprilia RS50 > '92 Honda CG > '99 Yamaha Fazer > '91 Yamaha RXS > '79 Suzuki X5 > 01' Honda Cg > 07' Honda Cg > 82' Kawasaki Z200 > suzuki gsxr 400 gk73a > honda vfr 400 NC30> Yamaha RD350 YPVS F2 > Kawasaki ZZR 600 D1 > Yamaha TZR 250 2MA >Suzuki TL1000R > Yamaha TDR250 > Honda 929 blade > Suzuki SV1000 > Honda H100
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

[/quote]

buy some good waterproof connectors and reattach , or get new switches/ light looms

i'll see what i have tomorrow[/quote]

Thanks , my wiring loom seems fine , is the dials and switches that have no connectors that is the problem ..

I played with the indicator switch again and i think it had it , as touching the wires further up makes the left indicator work fine .

This might do the trick ?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195400566595?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D242922%26meid%3D2f4426ab47a04e0895667aba2c5cff5f%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D313515304025%26itm%3D195400566595%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeedKnnRecallV1DwebOnly%26brand%3DHonda&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A1954005665952f4426ab47a04e0895667aba2c5cff5f%7Cenc%3AAQAHAAABIPnNgQzrwy4hcSW%252F1r0wjcHUoW2vznLktC1ywnd%252BfgwtVkfbqrg79mnCGmVqoaequeJtVfKXg136SWaKVngTop3JnbmUEUdhfiQsEDWfHdb4Rt3aIUmochAXBc%252FntwU3bCt4IT%252Fph6E0%252B6jxIKhwPMypHGwFO60a%252Fh6tdPSEm56BKt7ceU%252B71vL69LjGkblougcLLhZHu12WCYTjRICQi7S8pZsSmcmbo2vida824K%252FRc%252F%252F2UVV%252BEDHuLqxBIkHYc6Md21GUqYooZ85HW%252BS9Jj%252BATwxf005pzmmn6BktJFsDZ33oiO9ecg61N1yaJ3M4Tq5pWGc1rW3NKjCUr%252FYxcpb%252FOegu0uIaXwhYVWEg3AdQyB89sMDlazaO%252B9qqlVTQLQ%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:20 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really couldn't be arsed to go through a whole loom of wiring and ancilaries to make sure it was all connected together properly.

i'd replace with a good second hand loom with the correct connectors and if other bits have had the connectors removed get second hand ones of them as well.

Fucking mugs game fixing that rats nest.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/1nFr868.jpeg

Leave the probes in the sockets they are connected in now.

To test normal output, like to see if you're getting power at the bulb or the battery voltage or a voltage output at the reg/rec, set it to 20 in the DCV section.

To test the resistance of the stator windings set it to 200 in the "Omega symbol" section.

To test for an open or short circuit, set it to 200K in the "Omega symbol" section (a reading of 1 usually indicates an open circuit. A very low reading, pretty much the same as if you touch the probes together, indicates a short circuit).

To test the AC output of the stator (between the green and white with the reg/rec disconnected and the engine running) set it to 200 in the ACV section.

EDIT: your mates one is a high quality voltmeter but is just a voltmeter. His will be more accurate, your does more.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 19:07 - 28 Oct 2022; edited 1 time in total
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slowasyoulike
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 28 Oct 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

As others have said, get a new loom. I would not even entertain trying to fix that.

Even in the unlikely event you get the headlight working, it'll only be a matter of time before something else fails
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob Fzs wrote:

i'll see what i have tomorrow



Hi guys , sorry for the late update .

Did some tests , measured the battery with and without the reg/rec and it seems all is ok in that department , voltage increases with the reg connected and decreases without .

We resoldered all the wires back in the switch and looks like is working re. the indicators work and the horn .

Just the light still won't come on from the switch , my mate recons there's a short somewhere between the dash and the light assembly .

On a separate note , i got a PM off someone but can't open it for some reason .

@RobFzs , have you found anything that might do the trick please ?
Thanks .
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 18:15 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
The headlight will only work when the engine is running. It is powered directly from the generator via a fairly complex yet at the same time basic split halfwave charging system. The battery has nothing to do with the headlamp function.



I suggest you re-read this and start again.

First, check what is coming out of the yellow wire at the alternator, with the other proble to earth. It should read as DC.

Edit: Does the back light come on when you start the bike?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:48 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

mariust5 wrote:

On a separate note , i got a PM off someone but can't open it for some reason . .


That was me. I turns out the forum software had a tantrum because I used an "omega" character in the text of my message (the standard symbol for electrical resistance in Ohms which was on your multimeter display). It won't let me open or delete that message either.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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mariust5
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PostPosted: 19:26 - 02 Nov 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no yellow wire coming from the stator .

The back light works fine .
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