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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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mariust5 |
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mariust5 Derestricted Danger
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DannoXYZ |
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DannoXYZ L Plate Warrior
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DannoXYZ |
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DannoXYZ L Plate Warrior
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 00:55 - 03 Nov 2022 Post subject: |
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DannoXYZ wrote: |
Don't even do that as it's far from ideal. Crimps do not provide adequate mechanical strength, we've all pulled wires out of crimped-only connections before. Nor do they provide sufficient contact area for best conductivity. And no long-term corrosion resistance. A proper joint requires 3 separate properties:
1. mechanical strength - best to tie western-union/linesman knot, you'll want to be able to hang 50kg from wire with proper joint (or up to strength of wire itself)
2. electrical conductivity - provided by solder with much, much more contact surface area than any other method. Least amount of resistance and heating up joint.
3. corrosion resistance - from adhesive shrink-wrap tubing with much higher 5:1 shrinkage ratio than non-adhesive. Adhesive also seals gaps to prevent moisture from creeping in and causing green/black wire disease.
It is done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), aerospace and military applications for performance, durability and reliability. This will restore OEM-spec and quality wiring as if wire was one-piece continuous through joint. Will clean up that rat's nest you have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhzXRIj5FaY
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1pXqm5Wih-R0X0V9_zn5YwFw0fusgGp6D |
Nah.
You missed metallurgy.
Solder is hard. Copper is soft. Recently heated copper is even softer because it's just been annealed.
If you have a high movement joint (like motorcycle wiring going round a headstock or attached to the handlebars) a solid piece of copper wire will bend roughly equally along its length distributing the bending force. If you solder part of it, you make the soldered part rigid and the copper immediately below it unusually soft. Instead of a continuious bend, you get a sharp kink at one point just below the soldered portion. A perfect stress riser. Bend this a few times and the copper snaps inside the insulation.
Properly applied non-insulated crimp connectors are stronger that the terminal on the end of them. I tested some crimped on ring terminals with weights on the end. Non-insulated crimps failed at 95 N. I took pre-insulated crimps up to just over 160 N at which point the ring itself failed.
I garauntee NASA don't splice a high mobility piece of wire, they'd replace the whole piece... Which is what we've recommended the OP do. But if I was going to, I'd preferr a crimp in most circumstances.
If I had the rats-nest that the OP has to deal with and there was a good reason not to fit a replacement loom, I'd probably bundle the individual wires into sub-looms, shrink tube them. Say one for the clocks, one for the headlight and one for the flashers. Then fit some SP13 inline multiconnectors with solder pins on the ends which have proper strain relief glands. Like I did for the rear sub-loom on my Bullet build.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEW4t8sueI8_GttvEkAU1fA3DPDlqRDBa5fzGEClJBXgi2GWYpOLb_Vqo5T0GwC96d98KfcbR3OicWiVF1EojDVLPbAes_XMb4fyQVPEgxxmM8PG0Ytq2Q7XNFwcOBLvdqhntUK5i13Q2_3iqnTvJKZA=w1182-h886-no
If the wire isn't being subjected to bending forces, solder-splice away. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 1 year, 173 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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