Oil change and service frequency

[sapstar]

I bought my motorbike in 2019 December when it had a oil change and new sparkplugs at 29,000 miles. Since then I have only done about 2000 miles. I did keep the bike clean and chain oiled when not in use.

Given the low mileage, do I still need to get a full service on the bike now? If an oil change is recommended, I plan to do it myself, anything more, I will have to take it to a garage.
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[arry]

Oil should really be changed every year regardless of mileage. I've been known to push it a bit further but certainly once every 18 months or so, at a minimum.

[DJP]

Yep, that^^.

If the oil's been in the bike for 4 years then it's definitely time to change it, regardless of the mileage.
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Suzuki Bandit 1250
https://deejayp999.atwebpages.com/index.html
That's http not https

[Islander]

As above. Oil and oil filters are cheap. Engines aren't.

[MCN]

Well....

People want to sell you oil and filters.

Engine oil collects pollutants, deteriorate in lubrication qualities and collects wear particles.

It doesn't really 'go off' if left out of the fridge with the lid off.

So.... If it only has a couple of 1000 miles on it between the 6000 service it won't do any harm to leave it in there.

A consideration must be made for very extended storage.

In that case, oil should be drained, a fresh filter installed and fresh oil added to the mark.

Any openings should be plugged too. Breather, Exhaust and air filter inlet.

That is to prevent beasties moving in and moisture in air attacking the internal surfaces and condensation collecting in and spoiling the oil.

https://youtu.be/T-yt5a1cWd4


The TBN (Total Base Number) is more or less a litmus test reading for the oil.
Diesel engines suffer more from Acid oil because Diesel fuels can have more Sulphur in them. The engine burns off some of the sulphur as Hydrogen Sulphide a Toxic and corrosive compound.

The sulphur not burned off is absorbed by the oil.
The oil has an additive package which includes an acid buffer to reduce the acidity of the oil over time.
The more fuel burned the more acid produced.

That is really what determines oil change intervals for Diesel engines.
The quantity of fuel burned of a known sulphur content helps predict change intervals.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[doggone]

I wouldn't be changing it before two years with such low mileage - which is not unusual with bikes not least as many have a car and bike or 2 and more bikes.
It depends a bit where it lives if in good dry garage less chance of repeating condensation cycles getting into it.
Also it might be more in need if it typically did numerous short trips e.g. To work without getting fully warmed up.

[MCN]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

Meh! If you can start it, get it MOT’d and ride it.

[sapstar]

Thanks for the advise. I have MOT scheduled next week. Will change the oil and filter as a precaution.

How frequently I change the air filter and spark plug? Or get a full service?
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[doggone]

In UK conditions air filters rarely get choked there is more risk of them starting to break up than restrict air but they aren't expensive so changing with oil is not going to break the bank.
Plugs same story really on some bikes they are so hard to access I bet a lot aren't touched for years nothing bad is going to happen.

Inexperienced mechanics are good at messing up spark plug threads by cross threading or overtightening them and this goes for oil drains too ... Just saying.

[Pete.]

I would not change engine oil on a time-based schedule if the bike is dry stored. Brake fluid, yes but not engine oil. It's enclosed within the engine and won't contaminate by just sitting in the sump.
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a.k.a 'Geri'

132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good

[sapstar]

With engine oil, Can I just buy any 10w40? Motul seems to have 4 different 10w40's at different prices.
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[dave001]

[arry]

That engine has been around forever - I'd bet it will be fine with just about anything fresh in it.

10w40 or 50 fully synthetic at a reasonable price - go.

[MCN]

[Islander]

I use a standard semi-synthetic in all of my bikes. My go to oil is Comma Eurolite it's not overpriced and works just fine. If you're looking for a definitive answer though, the person to ask on here is Weasley although I've not seen him for a while. He works in the industry and is very knowledgeable.

[MCN]

[Easy-X]

[sapstar]

I am sure I can do an oil change myself without stripping any threads . Have done many oil and filter changes on my jaguar and audi.

With cars it has been easy to find the right oil, as I always buy castrol or shell and I get 1 recommended oil when I input my reg. With motorcycle it doesn't seem so straight forward. It gives me a lot of options and nothing specific to the reg. Hence the question.
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First/Current Bike - Kawasaki ER-6N

[Ayrton]

Surely the manual says what type of oil you need? Just make sure to get motorbike oil not stuff meant for cars as it has friction modifiers that can cause the clutch to slip. If it's Jaso MA2 standard then it's good for bikes.

[arry]

[MCN]

[weasley]

[blurredman]

MA oils I don't think are the ultimate argument for motorcycle use.

I have and have had motorcycles that have still slipped on MA spec oil. Using standard mineral 'car' motor oil has rectified these issues.

I think one also has to take into account the quality of the friction plates, both in manufacture and wear/usage, but also spring force. As these could be the main problem in the end anyway and the oil is just a red herring or a symptom fixer (as it may well have been with me and my experiences).


EDIT:

Sorry weasley. A question I posed myself due to my relatively large collection of vehicles was at what point do I change my oil? If the vehicle is used intermittently over a period of say 5 years to acheive the 5,000 mile interval change, would you change at the the mileage interval and ignore time, so long as the vehicle IS being used - but intermittently?
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1972 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.

[weasley]