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stator issues, not charging, parts at fault

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Paul2129
Nova Slayer



Joined: 21 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 21:08 - 11 May 2023    Post subject: stator issues, not charging, parts at fault Reply with quote

I wonder if I can ask you guys a couple of things. I have a Suzuki Address 110, it's effectively Suzuki's version of the Honda Vision 110. it's 4 years old and little used, with only 1100 miles on the clock. I recently discovered on a long ride that the battery is not charging. I measured at the regulator, and one of the wires from the stator is measuring really low, I think I understand that they should be similar. The output from the regulator isn't above 11v, even when you rev the bike. my thoughts are that it's likely to be the stator. The bike is currently at a bike shop, they're busy, haven't taken anything apart, but measured the same voltages and agree with me, and are asking me to buy the parts. question as follows :-

1, Stator assembly consists of the part with the coils, and the housing/flywheel with the magnets on, I'm wondering which of these is likely to be the faulty part, not forgetting that the bike only has 1100 miles and probably came from the factory with this issue (it sits on a battery tender in my garage when not in use)

2, would the correct course of action be to dismantle the bike and inspect it visually before ordering parts ?


note : if two out of three phases of the stator have good output, does this in itself point to some issue with the stator coil part rather than the magnet/flywhee part ? ...... or could I even have an issue with wiring, faulty plug for example

my thoughts are that this needs pulling to bits, what are your thoughts ?

any advice, most appreciated

many thanks
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 22:10 - 11 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

If 3 phase there should be three wires coming out of the stator.

Start bike, disconnect the stator.

Check using AC on your multimeter on two of the three wires. then do the same with every pair. You should be getting roughly the same off each pair. Three readings, one from each of the possible 2 of the three.
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jeffyjeff
World Chat Champion



Joined: 02 May 2020
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 11 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found this troubleshooting flowchart to be useful in diagnosing motorcycle charging system problems.
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Paul2129
Nova Slayer



Joined: 21 Jul 2013
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 11 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmmm, I had a hunt round in the area behind the fan casing where I understand the stator lives, I just couldn't find a plug or wiring that I thought could be related, so that's when I ended up checking at the other end where the three yellow cables from the stator enter the regulator. At that point (on the way into the regulator) I had 30v on one of the yellows, 30v on the second, but only around 3 to maybe 6 volts on the third. Checking the power coming out of the regulator, it's only 11v max.
I also don't currently have the bike, it's with the mechanic
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 23:59 - 11 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stator is the static part (doesn't move), the rotor is the rotating part. So the stator is the part with a series of coils in a star shape. It may also come supplied with the pickup coils for the ignition attached.

The rotor is the metal housing with magnets in which rotates with the engine. These are much less prone to damage and it would usually be obvious if it was damaged by looking at it.

If it was me, I'd do a visual inspection of the stator, you can sometimes see scorching or damage if there's been a short on one of the coils. I'd also visually inspect the wires running between them and the rectifier.

I'd do a quick continuity test of those yellow wires (so between the coil and the rectifier) to make sure one wasn't damaged. Finally I'd check resistance between each pair of yellows (should be the same) and each yellow and the stator back plate (should be an open circuit).

If the stator windings are damaged, you will get inconsistent voltage readings between each pair of yellows. If there's a short to ground internally, you'll get a low resistance between one of the yellows and the backing plate. Either of those cases would warrant replacing or repairing the stator
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 12 May 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm deffo of the No2 sort
ie take it apart and/or test stuff before buying anything

Ignore the magnet/rotor, its 99.999% the windings or connections
if not the regulator.

A quick resistance test will point you in the right direction
but if your committed to paying a shop do it they may just use what has been called a 'parts cannon' that is

sod the cost, just throw new bits on until its fixed

Apart from establishing what the actual problem is.

We don't know fore sure as yet if the stator is toast but they can last for years and tens of thousands of miles with no issue

We also dont know the quality of mechanic you're entrusting it to,
some spanner bois are bit lightweight when it comes to electrics
and go the swap and hope route
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