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Two stroke backfire when cold

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PotatoHead202...
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 10 Feb 2020
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PostPosted: 22:52 - 02 Jun 2023    Post subject: Two stroke backfire when cold Reply with quote

Managed to get the CZ through its MOT today.

However, on the way home it broke down 3 times (gurgled, bogged and died). Pretty certain this was down to very stale fuel that I stupidly used to top it up with (absolutely reeked). Washed the tank out, cleaned the (dirty) carb and managed after a number of kicks to get it running again. I'm getting what I'd describe as popping/backfire at idle for the first 20 or 30 seconds when cold. If I get on and ride it disappears and doesn't come back. If I normally start from cold it'll start with about 2 kicks.

Any ideas? Runs fairly well apart from this. I do have a suspected leak at where the exhaust joins the head and can see a bit of fuel leaking from the carb rubber to airbox join.

Again, this is basically a brand new engine and carb now with less than 30 miles on it. It has that crappy jikov carb so very basic. Getting a good spark and again this only happens when cold.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 10:54 - 03 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

crankcase is full of manky petrol and oil. My advice? Thrash it hard until it stops doing it.
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ThatDippyTwat
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Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 14:10 - 03 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
crankcase is full of manky petrol and oil. My advice? Thrash it hard until it stops doing it.


This. Just did it with the KDX. Was smoking like a bastid and surging a touch until I thrashed it up a good 30% incline.
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PotatoHead202...
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 03 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha, glad to hear that. I'll give it a dam good thrashing tomorrow!
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 04 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

The spade terminals on the ignition coil can make a very poor/intermittant connection despite seeming tight so they are worth a try. A duff condenser could also cause issues like you describe.

As I remember they don't like resistor plugs either.
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PotatoHead202...
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PostPosted: 11:33 - 05 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll have a look at the terminals as well just to be sure.

New exhaust bolt (wider flange) seems to have cured the backfire/popping. Have to be very careful not to flood it when starting from warm. The clutch is still the bane of my life at the moment - either too tight or too lose so it creeps in gear. Gearbox has to be the worst I've ever used, have to be really deliberate with changes or it either won't go in or will hit neutral, and that's with brand new selector forks and cam plate. Still could be worse, could slip out of gear.

Did get it up to about 60 yesterday though, gradually freeing up a bit.
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Nobby the Bastard
Harley Gaydar



Joined: 16 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 11:43 - 05 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

PotatoHead2020 wrote:

Did get it up to about 60 yesterday though, gradually freeing up a bit.


Presumably you've added the massively over-reading speedo onto the list of things to repair.
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PotatoHead202...
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PostPosted: 14:51 - 05 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tbf I was neck and neck with the other traffic on a fast A road that usually travels at that spped. I was somewhat shocked that I managed two (slow) overtakes on it!
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blurredman
World Chat Champion



Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 12:46 - 20 Jun 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

PotatoHead2020 wrote:
Gearbox has to be the worst I've ever used, have to be really deliberate with changes or it either won't go in or will hit neutral, and that's with brand new selector forks and cam plate.


4 speed ? A lot of 4 speeds are like this.
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Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1990 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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