Street Triple - a little rust inside the Petrol Tank -Update

[ajag]

Hello,

I recently found a little rust inside the tank of my Street Triple. My fault for not checking the tank was full of petrol, while keeping it sitting in the garage for the last 3-4 years. Only rode it a mile to the MOT centre and back.

Looking for advice on how to proceed.

My plan is:
1.- Empty the tank of the old petrol
2.- Add about a litre of new petrol shake it around and empty it again
3.- Remove the petrol pump and clean the filter if it is accessible/easy enough for me to do it (Cleaning the filter part).
4.- Replace any bolts that have rust in them
5.- Use this to treat the tank (Rostio): https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019U5T9K2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
6.- Drain, clean and put everything back together.
7.- Use about another litre of petrol to remove any left over of the product that can be there.
8.- Put tank back on bike, fill it up and enjoy.

Question:
1.- Any step that I am missing?
2.- Has anyone used Rutio? Is it worth it? If it is worth it, will it damage the pump if I add it to the tank with the pump? The above is a lot easier if I don't have to take it all apart, but the plan is to do so.
3.- What the hell do I do with all that old petrol I will remove from the tank/use to clean the tank? Where do I get rid of it. I rather not leave it outside to evaporate. Not only a fire hazard, but the neighbours will not be happy with the smell.

Thank you!
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Street Triple

[Easy-X]

How much rust are we talking about? A slight discolouration or proper flaking off and clogging a carb shit?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[ajag]

I will try to take a picture tomorrow. Basically spots with stuff flaking off. I expect the filter in the fuel pump to stop most of the rust from going in.... That is wishful thinking.
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Street Triple

[jeremyr62]

Pity Rostio don't specify what their active ingredient is. There are two ways to shift rust, acids and chelation. Chelation just removes the rust, acid remove the rust and uncorroded metal. I cleaned a tank using a chelating rust remover. The advantage is they are water based and you just throw the used solution down the drain. Chelation is a lot slower than acids however but it s far less aggressive and the end result is the same re the rust. Evapo-Rust and Metal Rescue are examples.

If you are a cheapskate and are prepared to wait a very long time, a diluted solution of black treacle (molasses) will shift the rust too as this contains the chelating agent. I cleaned my VFR1200 centre stand this way, but it took a few weeks. It did come out spotless though.

[MCN]

I imagine its a popular rust 'remover' converter.

phosphoric acid


https://byjus.com/chemistry/phosphoric-acid/#:~:text=Orthophosphoric%20acid%20refers%20to%20phosphoric,V)%20acid%20or%20orthophosphoric%20acid.

Could be Citric Acid. (Lemon Juice-ish)

That removes surface rust.

It is a much better de-scaler though.

For de-scaling the solution works fast if hot.

(But too hot and the reaction turns the 'scale' into insoluble compounds.)


It is fkn shocking that products, such as this, are sold to Joseph Pubic without need of an Data Sheet.

I work in Saudi and the company do not let any stuff in the door without an MSDS,
And that place is populated by Dangerous Dans.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[ajag]

[ajag]

[Fullers1845]

I’ve had good results using phosphoric acid in a tank which sounds like it had the same amount of rust as yours.
Think it was 40% phosphoric, kept shaking the tank, any rust turns to iron phosphate, clean steel is not affected by phosphoric unless you leave it on for ages.
Rinsed with water the dried by gently blowing a hot air gun inside the filler hole.
Then you have to completely swish around some oil to stop it re-rusting.

[Easy-X]

Converting rust into something else i.e. iron phosphate has to be the best strategy as just straight up removing the rust will thin the metal walls and weaken the tank.

AFAIK you wouldn't actually make something out of iron phosphate but it can be used intentionally as an protective layer.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

Use deox-C in a lightly rusted tank.

I wouldn't have believed how effective it is if I hadn't seen it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[BRUN]

id definitely be asking Bilt Hamber what they suggest, probably Deox as mentioned above

[ajag]

[stinkwheel]

[ajag]

So today I finally got everything I needed, emptied the tank, took everything apart and the "light" rust is not so light.

I have it in intensive care to see how much comes out. Felt like shit when I realised the level of negligence. Hopefully most of it comes out
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Street Triple

[rpsmith79]

There are plenty fuel tanks for sale on eBay if you find it unsalvagable, starting from around £100 (depending of quaility)
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Current Bike: Honda CG125 ES4 // Honda CB600FS Hornet // Triumph Street Triple R

[ajag]

I am hoping most of that will come off. The filter in the pump was a real pain to clean as it is a non serviceable item. It was also problematic to remove from the tank.

They could have designed that bit better
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Street Triple

[jeremyr62]

[A100man]

[P.]

Treated mine with phosphoric, solid fix. Was worse than that.

[Robby]

I'm trying to work out your setup.

The tank is upside down by the look of it, so you can expect some leakage through the breather on the filler cap if it has one there.

You have something plugged into it. It looks like something running off AC power. If you're doing electrolysis, turn it off right now, AC power is not your friend.

If you're using acid, most of them attack aluminium and phosphoric also attacks rubber. So if you have an aluminium fuel filler cap with a rubber seal, you're going to have a nicely de-rusted floor.

[ajag]

Tank is upside down. There is acid in there but I checked with the manufacturer that it was safe on plastics and rubber. Aluminium not so much, but I am really hoping I dont wake up to a puddle. Now that you said this, I am sure this is going to be the case.

I had nothing I could use to block the bottom of the tank, nor felt it was a good idea to leave the fuel pump in there with the acid.

The electric device is an immersion heater as the solution works better when warm. I turn it on for a while, let it get hot and then remove it. Unplug it and put it in water

Forgot to mention. No leaks from the breather since the breather connects to two hose at the bottom of the tank
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Street Triple

[Bhud]

The products and methods you describe loosen up rust and put them in suspension. You need a way to remove those loose rust particles from the tank. If you don't do this you will have problems.

You got an old 5l PET bottle? Fill it with diesel, pour it into the tank. Shake it about a lot. Then filter it through a strainer (e.g. a piece of cloth) back into the bottle. Wait until all the rust particles settle at the bottom. Repeat this process over and over until your strainer catches no more rust particles.

You are right to take your time and take this seriously. Once you've removed all the rust particles, you will have a good tank. If you don't remove the loose rust particles you will likely have problems with your fuel system (carbs/injectors, tap, line, etc.)

[Robby]

My usual method on tanks like that is make up a plate to cover the hole at the bottom, with a gasket cut out of old inner tube. If I think ahead far enough I put a drain hole in it too, and plug it with a rubber bung.

The acid does attack the rubber, but it stays watertight long enough and the rubber is sacrificial.

After you drained and rinsed it with water, rinse again with methylated spirits. It mixes nicely with water, just making dilute meths. There will still be a little bit of that left in the tank afterwards, but not enough to be a problem. The ethanol in the fuel will also absorb any lingering water/meths.

[ajag]

I removed the acid today and I am very happy with the results as the tank is very clean. I have now added the emulsifying solution that comes with the acid as a post treatment and the tank is drying.

You have to shake the tank vigorously after adding the post treatment so that it gets everywhere. I made a cover for the bottom of the tank out of a dog licking mat I found at a pet shop today. Mind you, I am pretty sure it would not hold the weight of the Petrol if the tank was all full.

Robby Jinxed me a little as the latch on the petrol cap was being attacked by the acid. I think I would have issues if I had left it overnight. The rubber and the plastic on the petrol lid look perfect. The latch still closes fine, but some material was removed so it is smaller. I have to source that mechanism now. Overall, I am happy with the result. Thank you everyone for the help.

Related question. The tank of the Street Triple is a pain to remove, and then an pain to empty. After you faff getting the tank and the pump out, there is a lid on the bottom of the tank that holds liquid in there. Anyone know of a reliable syphon (That does not involve me tasting petrol) or another useful pump/tool to empty the tank? I think I am going to start emptying it for winter to prevent this crap happening again
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Street Triple

[to v or not to v]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184633328443

handy for brake fluid changes too
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current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.