Hollow rivet link install fail

[Fullers1845]

Buggered up a hollow pin chain link, can anyone more experienced and less ham-fisted offer any guidance please?

Fitted a DID 525 x-ring chain today, no instructions came with it in the box so when I flared the first pin I completely stuffed up and overdid it cracking the top of the pin, ok so link was now buggered so ordered another, £7 down the pan.
Then had a practice on the other pin and literally anything over 0.2mm spread cracks the head.

Now putting my engineering head on, the pins are already a really tight interference fit in the side plate, by flaring the ends 0.1 to 0.2mm, to my mind those are never going to come out.

[Easy-X]

IIRC you peen over the edges of the link till the overall diameter reaches the size specified in the instructions. 5.5 ~ 5.8mm most likely.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Nobby the Bastard]

All you need to do is flare it enough so it can't go off sideways. All the force is down the chain.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[stinkwheel]

Never had that problem. What flaring tool are you using? Maybe there's something wrong with the tip of the pin?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Fullers1845]

Found the data sheet on DIDs site, 525 x ring should be 5.7 to 6.0mm, the second pin that went tits up I just measured at 6.1mm.
It was with a brand new Oxford chain tool, I’ve chalked it up to experience and will stop at exactly 5.7 next time
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Honda CB125F, Kawasaki ZX6R J1, 1922 Sheffield-Henderson Blackburne grasstrack/sprint

[stinkwheel]

Put a dab of moly grease on the end of the pin too.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[sickpup]

[Easy-X]

I see... the cheap kits are just a ball bearing whereas the DID version is more like a die
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[sickpup]

[Ayrton]

You want a tool like this, not one of those crap oxford types.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404384360249?hash=item5e272fa739:g:HTYAAOSws2JktNvQ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4D8eEyxoB0C1gLZEHKJfG7Dd87oCOp09jtUYkirQjJzaxWyThiLIyZd3Yj0IHAP%2BoGwsqiUlJ8JjatzNNfRA3Rh5ctrQVkLNdhgKMa3SLqyn6VTrPDFOIQJ%2BMy5jSzAJfnmzhe7A1UiZEGOK7cd028CNeYZz0dSOniqLXKQtqs%2FGFXpsVoOnv%2Ft%2BPHAdSjUEPkXWk79OgeYHSSEAVtKJGLVrnXO0dE70gJfq2uFIDuWAN%2BUBEw9%2BPdsqM0Y%2BI6clWNfzr0CKirf9IUnNxH8jBQbbwVyc7Qj4aT32K4kiYMmq%7Ctkp%3ABFBMjoCJjshi

[sickpup]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

I thought I saw a chain riveter recently which specified a torque setting. (Kellerman?) but now I can’t find a reference to it. How practical would using a torque value be?

[Ayrton]

[sickpup]

[jeremyr62]

[sickpup]

[Ste]

Here's the DID KM500R chain tool for anyone who's interested.

£118.99

https://www.mandp.co.uk/products/km500r-did-chain-cutter-riveter-571522

[Nobby the Bastard]

____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

The last time I had new chain and sprockets I had the local bike shop provide a riveted chain loop of the correct length and I removed the swingarm, replaced the suspension linkages/bearings and fitted new sprockets. If I riveted a chain myself I wouldn’t trust it, not having experience or training. I’m reasonably handy but the nagging doubt would ruin my riding.

[Nobby the Bastard]

Continuous chain is not the same as a soft rivet link. I've done 2 or 3 over the years and tbh it's not that difficult and the first one was done with a G-clamp and a ball bearing.

You literally only need to make sure that the plate can't go off the end of the link. All the pressure goes down the chain and not sideways.
____________________
trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[megaross]

Trick is to buy a KM500R style tool then buy the genuine DID pin as a spare.

I'm all for quality tools, but I'm also not a millionaire and I do a chain every 20-30k, maybe the odd mates one.

That being said you can absolutely do a good job with the £12 soysauce branded kits off eBay. All you're really doing is pressing a plate and flaring a rivet to spec, measure the plate is on the correct amount, then rivet and measure until the rivet is in spec, clean the heads and get the light on there to do a close inspection for any cracks.

Only thing is you almost certainly will bend/ snap the pins and they take more care to not balls up and over squeeze anything.
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'07 Tiger 1050

[sickpup]

[megaross]

Well I think that's the thing, I have plenty of nice tools that were not cheap but that doesn't mean I think you should buy expensive if you can get away with a workaround.

The tool body isn't making a difference on a KM500R - it's all about the pin. I'd sooner have a cheap body and a genuine pin and £70-80 left towards another tool.

Sometimes it's worth spending - taps for example. I wouldn't plunge a cheap chinese tap into a hole because I've broken a tap - I know that pain, sooner drop £40-50 on a single 3 part tap set for that size.
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'07 Tiger 1050

[sickpup]

The pin us irrelevant, that's what angle grinders are for. The important part is the flaring plate, its a pretty precision part.

[Skudd]

So you don't just hit it with a hammer with another hammer behind it like I've been doing for the past 40 years without any issue?
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