Wheels - Bearing Surfaces Blasted

[BanditsHigh]

Hi all, looking for some thoughts on the following ...

Just got the wheels just back from blasting and powder coating, however the wheel bearing surfaces have been blasted as well ... I'm absolutely certain they weren't blasted the last time I got the wheels done.

The bearing surfaces are now rough rather than machined, therefore some material has been removed!

So, are the wheels buggered or am I just being paranoid and there's no problem with the rough surface?

All the best ... Barry

[A100man]

It's not ideal that's for sure and you won't know until you try teh new bearings - if you have to use these wheels then I'd get some loctite 'bearing fit' in advance to take up any slack.

On a simlair note I had soem wheels blasted and they blasted the brake disc mounting surface this made me think that if I ever mounted a disc it migh clamp down unevenly and promote premature warpage - I ended up not using that wheel so I never found out,
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[BanditsHigh]

^^^ All the wheels I've had done had the brake disc surfaces blasted, never had a problem

I'm going to be ever so slightly annoyed if they have buggered them!

Paid for with cash, so no official record of the transaction, only have my word and the friends that gave me a lift to drop them off / pick them up.

I'll need to try fitting the new bearings, they may feel okay going in but no guarantee that the fit is correct.

I'll have a look at the loctite stuff, but that feels like a bit of a bodge, it's one thing on a small bike another on a big bike (GSX1400).

Anyhoo, thanks for the feedback, appreciated.

All the best ... Barry

[WD Forte]

The loctite isnt a bodge if used appropriately.
Using it as a filler for lost material is a bodge
Using it to maintain fit while the receptacle may expand and contract slightly with temperature/vibration in use is acceptable.
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bikers smell of wee

[virus]

Locktite have some good products for this as has been mentioned. not the 'thread locker' stuff but actual bearing fit compounds designed to reduce slack and tighten fits up. They even have one product thats actually used for woodruff key repairs on engines where its not cost effective to replace the crank.

What id suggest is turning up at a small engineering company with the wheels on you 'as you were passing' and ask them if they could measure the ID's of the bearing surfaces now, then you'l know for a fact if they are still within bearing fit tolerances. Common rule of thumb is a thou interference per inch of bearing outer race diameter but your bearing manufacturer will have housing fits tables on their website if you want more certain numbers.

as for the actual surface finish, so long as its even and they havent ovaled the bore blasting one section more then I wouldnt expect it to cause a problem.
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own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

[Pete.]

[stinkwheel]

Green bearing fit isn't a bodge if used within it's specified tolerances.

I use permabond A118 on some of the very poorly fitting wheel bearings on my enfield. I also have it on the slightly undersize cam spindle which has been in place for over 6,000 miles now. In both of these cases they are a press fit, but not much of a press while still being a fair bit short of the next oversize.

It claims a maximum fill of 0.005" and a breakaway torque of 33Nm.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Bhud]

I had a wheel bearing issue on my ER5, when I had one (long time ago). You could grab the rear wheel in your hand and rock it side to side by several mm. I changed the bearings myself, but the problem remained. First, I thought the new bearings were at fault, but I checked the size, went back to the seller, looked up the specs and they were the correct C5 fit. I took the bike to a mechanic, and he removed the new bearings, put something called bearing setting glue in, and that fixed it. It would probably insure against any problems in your case as well.

It's a shame they ruined the bearing setting seats. I would give the appropriate compound or glue a go, and if it doesn't work, get another wheel.

[MCN]

[Polarbear]

I agree with MCN. Loctite used correctly is a wonderful tool.

Or you could just use the very old tried and tested method of centre punching the bearing surface to increase the interference fit. It's got me out of trouble on many occasions with pump bearings where the shaft has worn.
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Triumph Trophy Launch Edition

[jeffyjeff]

[Raffles]

What Pete said 100%.
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A good loser will always be a loser.

[megaross]

I'd want to get a dial bore gauge on it to check it for concentricity, roundness and taper as well as size.

If it was bad enough I'd be tempted to say get it machined to size and fit oversized bearings. That way you know it's a good repair - wheel bearing failure can be fatal.
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'07 Tiger 1050

[BanditsHigh]

Finally got the finger out and tried putting the bearings in ... no problem at all, lovely and tight as they should be.

Now all I need to do is paint the bits that the powder coater didn't do (cush drive housing for a start) and then chuck the tyres on.

All the best ... Barry