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Minsk 125. CCCP era 2-stroke commuter of the people.

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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 15 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's worse. Massive cock-up.

It goes in the middle of that plastic bushing between the two main bearings on the drive side and supports the lip of the bearing seal. I fished out the old seals and it sits down into the recess in the seal and the seal mark on the bushing matches up perfectly. The ID is the exact OD of the drive shaft.

It's not labelled on the diagram in the workshop manual but it has to be that, makes total sense. When you look closer, I think it's in there.

I have no idea how it landed up in the bag with parts for the kickstart assembly or how I missed it when I was dismantling the thing.

I need to dismantle practically the whole thing again to get at it. I hope the gaskets come apart in one piece and I don't damage the bearings doing it. The gasket sealant should still release because it's not been run.

Here's the diagram. I've marked what I think is that bushing with a red dot. It's not labelled at all. Neither is the outer main bearing.

17-spacer bushing; 18 - cuff of the crankshaft (crank seal); 19-washer; 20 - bearing lock ring, 21 - crankshaft bearing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87ZjslVagZ9PnvGJV3hObSAZHVHU9XrdW8hX-J4WjF-k1Ajy_8W-RS5o8WZt0tUZwXOYUCnYktJXJ8H5c_7d8BA2j1hjVFOjIqD7i4fJMwMUJioDD3H3Zeq_1bH4KSZeiTiRqZxHqpkt795U0Qj2zZs=w837-h870-s-no

Guess I know what I'm doing this weekend then...
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:13 - 15 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

The more I look at this, the less it makes sense. I'm up for input from the team here.

Here's that mystery spacer sitting in the old crank seal. Perfect fit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85OGSSbA-j6Q2TfNiOBKMABm61bp813x8Ir7OfPRSrwMbIzjMtoZF-iZShwWRjfqtP-gFmRUyQWsPtV65qXeVrRePAgSnmwq18vhIVTV87AQxBmnvvU9CHswIweCvbnN-Kks9xv3SCVMasFo2bL64bz=w1547-h870-s-no

The wear mark lines up perfectly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87_EawBzpApT3jloZ2sFn4D4fFlBNWiGuDsEwUBeV3cUkIaAE5GLwR4ZcigAWMx2AJbm07dT8yfcywmHaLZlJjucos3g10rboNzVaiGwXFCRuw3M242PnwyFgBLv3C7zW5eli8UtUC28KGASb8AJQgo=w1547-h870-s-no

However. That face of the seal was 100% definitely up against the weird star-shaped washer, you can see the imprint it left on the closed face of the seal.

The manual shows (from the inside out) main bearing > circlip > Washer > Seal > Spacer > Outer main bearing.

While it's a fairly shitty reproduction of the diagram, it is obviously a technical drawing which to my eye confirms the orientation of that seal as having the open side facing out, the seal on the right side is shown with the open side facing in. Which is also my recollection of dismantling it. Not my imagination?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV840E43oZx6MuBfWJreDsswL2qbKAMroX_8cUaOAy8vKIiVkO2ienYmXK39ROS2JwX2QWTKPicD5TYaRFfIV4Sg53zHppfPPBlBLPyujbTGyCR9cGIYV8sMV6T5pB6lGLDjopEzr7nbHO_-yf_ZzxMSd=w1123-h794-s-no

That being the case, there's no recess on the inner face of the seal for that spacer to fit in, it would butt against the inner seal lip, which would be a no-no?

So for the mystery spacer to be there, it would all have to be assembled in a different order and with the seal in the opposite orientation. It would have to go inner main > circlip > Seal (open side facing in) > Star washer > Plastic spacer and mystery spacer > Outer main bearing.

There's another one of those star washers on the other side and it 100% definitely goes between the circlip and the seal (but was fitted with the open face of the seal against the washer).

I'm now wondering again if it is a red herring and I've got a random piece which shouldn't be there that just happens to fit in that recess. I'm also wondering how necessary it is if it's supposed to be there. A normal 2-stroke has main bearings then a crank seal pushed over the outside and that's all she played. There's nothing supporting the inner race of the outer bearing against a thrust load. But would directing a thrust load against a bearing seal be a good thing? I can't see where it would experience a thrust load anyway, the bearing is supporting the drive shaft but the engine sprocket is on a taper, not tightened down against the bearing race.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:23 - 15 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

This guy adds to the confusion. No star washer or mystery spacer and he's put the seal on top of the plastic spacer with the open side facing in.

https://youtu.be/NMhR2TxKQZs?si=rXDHs9YXbGPglHZl

EDIT: However this guy goes circlip, star washer, seal with open face to the outside, plastic spacer, outer bearing. No mystery spacer. He's done what I did but with lots more hammer.

https://youtu.be/8J8xi0yoDeI?si=VT2CvTHmSXNVJA3t

No spacers or washers, seal open side facing in. Lots of hammer.

https://youtu.be/lv3JCmjguCM?si=MnDBeiEF3PFlERSh

Another like mine.

https://youtu.be/4rRvShDDm9A?si=lLzGcp5aRocHbSYE

Take home. 1) None of them have that spacer. 2) You can be a hell of a lot more hashy than I've been and have a running engine.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:46 - 15 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so no need to dismantle the engine again. Carry on. Still no idea where that spacer is from but I'm sure it'll become apparent eventually.

Barrel is back from the engineers. It'll need painting and such but first some mucky jobs since it's covered in swarf anyway.

It's a dead simple design, alloy head and barrel with iron liner and a spigot joint. There's an optional ?alloy? head gasket which is just a ring. As I remember the instructions with a new one were to run it in on 20:1 premix then take the head off, de-coke it and throw the head gasket in the bin, then drop the premix to 25:1.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85uHcBHzduLItZfNRykzqIez2D5-ofCTwECj8NTi7CDGdRdf2gbXlEoTnGbuIjcWLIqv6yd2QE0cWEiiBCTEbTkORazbQhL4hYRADRNMXInw1WH6Vi_R5oTsyDoqhSHjbu4huy2OpSygbYuc6nc0gZW=w1547-h870-s-no

Worth checking how good a seal it is on the spigot. Sharpie makes a reasonable substitute for engineers blue.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV869659F58ZyKEvCzDtQoNhU4DfaxCuiP7MQYNGBOV-UsMJP_c1YF-pUAJHch88wzcSKzqPAGYzzZnx3jv5pZxe8qOWD4MAN7oRT2nJldwsFynZlpc5z53yOA0DPcMTdRdlgbtIdGNGdAQ8xHvNEfmwa=w1547-h870-s-no

Lapping the head against the spigot shows there is a reasonable degree of sealing but mostly round the outside edge. Gas will probably get in there and start coking up between the head and barrel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87MkLD0ZMEqdf3_QybhbER2aWHiUXxHcLQeMmKTRgRIDs1nqd9D9Xaq2a-UvbC_D0z55dUFhxYyScmMiGukHcaT03pcSjy7s6tr1tGv3MNVAGpjj793k1EPtJfNWvkDk03qu7-CPA9v7AkpKy9wwGvM=w1547-h870-s-no

I do like a grinding paste tin.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84VDChTBhMCFjqwJavYfA3k-neoaDxnIkPB9jlmNywH-vwSFU_pSNob_PEDMLtDN_z95nc3iOamx9tan_0-Sn0bEp0GJLvbyCBCp9eN3E-fGjbGGkRWANZ78QKmNqweoUJyscXQ1ah6QO8OPEQo6KdZ=w1547-h870-s-no

About 20 minutes of lapping and this is the post-sharpie result which I'm happy with.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86w9nJ5LBHvs59IG4K1jJNRPQzQ8vJnmoIGlDmgmQuW5vfevm7b7Qt28I_ODWqsN6ocK7coKkLf89IVftUEcw2u21x305qOYN24AFruFeTRDCVteJyGhSpK56_5uZErIuzInP3476mwBn-hCsv-5pjL=w1547-h870-s-no

I may give the inside of the combustion chamber a bit of a polish if only to make it easier to de-coke in future. Hope to get the head and barrel cleaned up and painted this weekend, on-call allowing. Then I need to go through my big heap of piston rings to see which two fit best.

Small end bearing and new snap rings are en-route but no saying when they'll arrive with the christmas post. No matter, the engine can now be fitted in the frame any time, the barrel can go on later.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:05 - 17 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found it!

Mystery spacer solved, it goes over the gearbox output shaft. I ordered the wrong seal thinking the seal ran directly on the shaft. Put the spacer in the wrong bag.

That's a niggling worry off my mind.

Right there in plain sight on one of my photos.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV876GJw3XQiYDRleyvAM6ZPwg7u4Yhq2GP5DqbgorAYz7IYH2OrknXkPV7-CKhqDLdUWA9_YTk4N428HXmh9evvk9TUz4MX6ziBqEAJ9DE87FpnWJ_VuYDLRegkuyJaX6Xbik3aDqyPZkQpqbfu8I4Wu=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 17:58 - 17 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

If ever there was evidence showing why its bloody useful taking lots of pictures when your doing something complex then this is it eh?

Imagine if youd have split the cases again to try and solve the mystery Laughing
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 17 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Swiss cheese model at work. Three things went wrong. User error was the main one, I put it in the wrong bag. However, the original seal was destroyed by the bearing having collapsed, no way of measuring it so I ordered one based on the diameter of the shaft and the seal holder.

Having fitted that seal, it all went together fine. If I'd had the correct seal, there would have been a gap between the shaft and the seal when I fitted it.

Easy fix with it having a seperate seal carrier, six screws and it's off. Amazon had an oil seal so it should be here tomorrow. If it's shit and leaky, it's easy to swap out again.

In other news, painted the cylinder head and barrel today. I'll cure it in the oven tomorrow then I can get the oven back in the shed out of the way mask cycle parts masked ready for primer later in the week or on Christmas weekend. Should be able to prime everything but the rear mudguard which will need support plates welding onto it but I don't know where they will go until I've got it mounted to a frame with a wheel in it.

Also find out if I kept off the naughty list well enough to have a TIG set do do said welding (or more likely bronzing) with.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:34 - 20 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the barrel and head painted silver and baked off. Not the neatest job of stripping it but anything that was going to come of, is off. Should really have been soda blasted but maybe that's a thing for next Christmas. The castings are dead rough anyway so it'll look good, especially with the rubbers back on it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84XZBD97j6tysJfQsrg6MxAv5MJ3q3bwxe-3jqBmYFvf8BrDb2XrzAOeD9CW-jUaYD1jp2cabLNRQdvFTwr3ukFtRClb_Itxb_f88uUHfH_AitTgk2b85Y6rpXZKKTQ3tAVFS5quTP3rIgbC0htNC0W=w1547-h870-s-no

I have a literal handful of piston rings. They look dead manky here but it turns out they were covered in cosmoline and wiped down nicely.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86uLvhE1NnN0N3slmaDNrOonaAqPpgZx8wfmAB00lHaNxwoQPRgDnsDfy9KkMvoIIcO-Io5P5VoIoBnQ6IOxaOZ2WGzR3WStfbtceEeN8YxrNEBdCNvwIcmZEzdN3H2C8X335c37Aos5nmsenx9SQJZ=w1547-h870-s-no

Looking for an end-gap of 0.2-0.3mm. Nothing for it but to clean them all off, try them in the bore and see what the best two are.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87DUU0YxOXRBadxBiLhVMiD-cEPCzRm4zXIWXWPcE3I10sWtFnauOZsXHjAMOSKlSQ5zzH2plZuPGQi-SN1r4yfNE7xNqwv6IW9HQLSndE1Nj66hWbBz3hQTIwejDZ0TLpFhm2Q9IG1oHbB6TeEhxR7=w1547-h870-s-no

This one's a hair too small, most of them were oversize.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86NQPKgiOYm85aq_W1Eve9WiELrtVHHxoV72RixMKwY9kl02i012JEGpvPVsoAHVcy14R5gMRpq1aGKXwi47X9rWrB9lVOU4wgve4WBd4eOhuL7ugX3pfV6HBAhB6GwqR2XBmsfoHe8p-CChFPzGe-x=w1547-h870-s-no

Got down to six within spec.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86jI8jb0G8VBkJX9SdlJE6LRqPqQChIdWZWtf6e4EzCh8pe7XF6xVd_ZDZWPpk33SVTV8lpL4zxuDre7VQZXazFR8yJrw4JQKD3iatakLSpG-oRAYms_sPWASJqF_Q0qFU22j3sdOjX1I0wKq_WTlRs=w1547-h870-s-no

Of those, one was at the tighter end betwen 0.2 and 0.25mm, the others were between 0.25 and 0.3mm. On advice from a mate who knows his engines, I'm going for the tight one as the top ring and I'll pick the best looking/cleanest of the others for the bottom ring. I'll give the opistona run through the ultrasonic before fitting them though.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86DsXCO5weQqzK6Q3BtcwvWRyihd-1014Gi1hqFMJCjZA4FYOaanBrGdwExRSyoI5xqEokSPcvi4i5hG8b1rNg5VlHEsEAukoN6hAMLGE26iYCmKWFaQSZvKgMOj3tnx3eBSdyOX58zyiv32zVestfD=w1547-h870-s-no

A perfect fit in the lands though with a sliding 0.05mm gap.

Small end bearing arrived today as did the generator kit from Ukraine so thunderbirds are go. Hope to get the undercoat blown on on Saturday. Might get the top-end on the engine before then, only needs the piston fitting and four nuts. The electrics can wait until it's on its wheels.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 21 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

New small end bearing and piston circlips.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV8795n6gmTZZXdN7pfdDomJB3mE3Mf8nswTaPSVj7dcSZDL_iI7T4NMXS47rFjU5rrt-RloJFUgeL5t7zQ5EJGg0h38cXeVk__vWIQp0qBpYiP7krMI3za8fTttXt8wyrd2EtpOx2beb2NFwVPxr_YYD=w1547-h870-s-no

Piston fitted and rag stuffed in for fitting of second circlip. Note to self, both are fitted.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86tAOUFyfeJn4kCTi6AKQ0ewxbzek4pu1yKmWxwiXAa9Q4xltjHhEtzW5sIhel-Ij5BfggeXDhFnQKWoIpWgcx74U-Lnqf3Qy2EnjIjYudo-3PWaHrMVN_1QfrPgec7gOFUTl_J0fenNyrTUcc_zGWi=w1547-h870-s-no

Sanity pictures so when I wake up in the middle of the night wondering about something, I know it's fine. Showing piston facing the correct direction. Showing both piston rings in the right way up and both piston ring locator pins where they should be.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86ijK4JtGt8Z2cCK1n7bKvwpyQT0iduQoDf_gYyA5f4x50ZVU9rLzJMnWF2TETyUtrY43OpIPpuCeoaYtqM1wsjc5gCJrFGkmwVchjfNmId2htrFknOFj8b_FhYPCJ3BCJQ9bpguiLeu9dw1tEx279i=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85zX-klY-3bDygSnqStpQsaH6_-B6QiW-ugJHhvy3w6VhXV4D1qBth105WtL0SAVVFOOaZRHAAdMlVvJtDgtPVYnLyYAQljlIa7R2XSjts1bilOm1i42sOpkYxLxQEhKHMmnjnnu8UoUfLMXPUeHN6d=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84W271HrTt7Tc1mtjU6-1qBPL_cwPZa75GXhq8gVKMG-Z9E6IUJeYC1cawU4rC6WafkMqG-RikZEKpra_-xQ849Jl5GnfCzTrF4kj0obwCl8g1g3nG72oIgAxF3Pl2ZHB6D-T0lpEcIr0riwV_A2sI4=w1547-h870-s-no

See if I can build one that doesn't blow oily crap out round the base gasket. (I give it 50:50).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV846hYiH_6mSrrY7O5kER818rWahCfa4tFCoLQ4aULbKwgU56q_PdYhrk-qle99N0ZOA82FzUicWrwukf1QtcMYdsKZulHp44JlXw6jMu2ls44QRHHaX1gGElcTki8Y8SVjq5bvDViexFPEQ8T8ZFyPc=w1547-h870-s-no

Temporary head gasket for running in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86YgEVa5IsZ4F5tMQ3EKJ-2neTR4FIcL78Yh_HUVw_Y4WvHHD3-g6k-0m5AA1zWKleWtkWSfevoAxtLNdre2aR6QYC94tmzvl7uxbnUUxnHLK-ty1M440EPHLWA6IJNYRYuCojaas9J5qj8BxEEkLHF=w1547-h870-s-no

Head on and torqued down. I couldn't find a torque setting in the manual, haven't translated that far but if there is, they aren't using Nm because I can't find a Nm mentioned anywhere. BSA bantams use a 5/16" head stud which is just a whisker off 8mm. They do 15ft/lb, warm up then 20ft/lb. I'll use this, it sounds and feels right..

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV861dLa9JQUTQgNi54TMWIIP5DoypGAMcP4doMkzfU8AxwmK0_FnsILXa4wPUMIhUnsZx0uxhQ1AeC4-BCQsn-A74c6lRFjFBfAuOhlPXyGQYi3x0nHsCSiq3RLQnwE2Nv-wrSJUALPO8itG4sMvTCh_=w1547-h870-s-no

Dampener rubbers came up nice after a wash and wipe down with aerospace 303.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85KB1Xz7PSmUHae3xQyLVUWAOmTA6gcclC512i1EeZNGnHM3_FOX72vATsd77YIUDbTru6GCAJpOFYiUq4npmkVhd-NmGU4o615nETsLE-vNGRfc-pWI3ou_slKw9HPwHJhze4RkVTJ-_475IJz7_72=w1547-h870-s-no

That's the engine built except for the dynamo. Next step frame paint and start assembly.

EDIT: Before picture.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85zQmkvSMdE1SKd7EGU6s0Gvppw8QJ4sPsRAWBazeHBVXjJXpslZZFEgo2K0cdOna_jsClEQbsvol_nEQ0YgZsv6TosWqfV4yj1EzYFwK7EW1C-EsAhoy5TuTWhY2I0Tbqc5HcOJAOYk2ukUPNvO-qJ=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.


Last edited by stinkwheel on 00:06 - 22 Dec 2023; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 21 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just checking the sparkplug. The one that was in it was a Champion L92YC which is equivalent to an NGK BP4HS. That seems more than a tad on the hot side, I don't think I've ever seen a #4 plug used anywhere.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87y-TEyabX6zO8Yf0cxaqBNjgzuo8okJz7jepZ6qcRh-LRO3LB78aPt4OZFv-oVJlT0UIbr3raMXUao_NaIGBz_BdOxmM6qQGhnEB8zxSqiMZUG3LNnCiNGH7G0iGKb9gzZ0FEBiA3xc438s6rtSNot=w1547-h870-s-no

Book spec. is an A23B (doesn't mention make) but I found it on a cross-reference chart as equivalent to a BP7HS. This seems more sensible and is one grade hotter than the ones my Jawa 350 used to use.

Previous owner was clearly having issues with this bike oiling up to have gone three grades hotter. Either that or they just threw a random plug in and wondered why it kept seizing (It had seized at some point by the state of the piston).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 22 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

4 is one hell of a step up thats for sure.

Engine is looking very tidy compared to the before shot. Im interested to see if it remains that clean once you've started riding it, base gasket especially.
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 22 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think a lot of the mess was it spewing EP90 oil out through a collapsed output shaft bearing.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 18:29 - 23 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Busy spraying today. Got everything but the mudguards (which will need modifying) in tractol alkyd resin primer. 2 coats.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV850BmFsM_-UJ8dTsX3gjewCD_RHjhLp7M00Xa0il33kgZkieIRnmbDi8_xRVSoz8aTZrNqIRwUFx30fVCVZ7EGu6Wmp0ogpszHDc26PBti-o6CsyFJmfEMQxOZj35Jjm56knrnRhogR3TTAQwtcn2PH=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86Vt6gga7_9Agr5pdAiKFOxGAcds8C3cc9rRTq3J8YyOqZBAR4iDlc-54_vGO_teofVpOPzsIa6A7r-PBqltcENubCkfiuS5PONJyULmC28j5AD1qVhld1mcmkzsiMseip8i-kd8S5B6aygPkhZXZcU=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85sih4LGHonZLqAj2hqnrPVAEWNmwSbWbBDEYYIPtdE5vjmuojGe4tfzRElBO2oAsP2YRv3scnpabDSlw9k0DfsZQ5vTq2ngkwR9Cjbueukb-W3Sn97ViK7bjC_q34cDtwfDlxFpDCmR5TUT3Yh9eJE=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV844ORRxNEr8oiXHYZnWZz5ph1Q1QENvec5r_V05AX2lIsjEB3nwBPfJpMYUl_4oB3hS1Edd56sp8Kq84uGnMFhK4xGoCsylYIIb6CQ3YDGygQAwuMxiABfLYmbiE5B3cDU4v90-SizfabMCiKiwouTq=w1547-h870-s-no

Then blew a coat of top coat onto the gloss black bits. I'll need to thin this stuff more for the final coat, it's clagging up my small spray gun and not pushing out the volume I need to lay on a thickish coat. Not a bad thing to have a thinner coat for the first one but it needs a certain thickness to self-level. I shouldn't need a clear coat with this paint. It's only an 0.8 nozzle on my little HPLV gun. Looks like you can't buy bigger nozzles for it so I'll need to go with thinner paint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV857f8SPV69hC1rjncUDDYpps1D5ucKXdxkjb8gNFQ5tg5O9o1ZzEtXd6ExD9u0ivlbW9IqvT7y3CcAZcEagUnSzu3E3YrjFG3dw-LKErnWgXZH5efTVRB9OtPQPQTw-o4n_DzVIF_9YdDqq2BeLnhLk=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86oavlqTJd3vCTOA7V4JqjIA7mnFADnTqCxp1A_wqc1TRaeYsN6BIMxA0ShSSZsfUPMIgJ0Q0__YcQi5tnEXbeDyO23jWWrABL6tMpSNRN2fkfQ6JK_ZYZsxXjO_LhXafxCsXBYFQWj7fJsr4ac1GWU=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86rULhMbK2_iGEE31sJ1zKHfGartDwx9SPk7--YjTID2gCfezz8ftS2a74UsZqOGQ1A2_AYhN1Gy2BC8slpfBUI4GmS_uA-0sRNuZkrgSULjPMhCLCAPb_ksXJWt1F4EemLJ6TNHCfn2ixGFpAXppvV=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 19:23 - 30 Dec 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Final coat of gloss black on the frame, swingarm and yokes so I can start assembly in the new year.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87JBj7CDskUClnlWEftNoiAFSFXcYspoCdDXCZHcJXjxDkMxYc_igLLV8RpbLCgm0Z_h3ZAJa0BnKJB0awrEIfibJ18M9VP7PHuHyCwMZ6MEja7-s02P8pkpF3qXut-OAkP3Ily1-3KFa-0lf_tp9P8=w1547-h870-s-no

Also needed body colour on the fork shrouds as these will need to go in with the frame. Two coats ought to do it, the final coat is laid on thick so it self-levels.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84YMmTbddHl6FwgEr295DAdJNVClgMA5-13uBudvE1gV2RVWkmjm_jKC38BXQtoy0yPWu1Z2aHKwK9Um2-P4XRox5J3HKm2VGwN_sJv6aDFifhnzoC2vLN1QOV_GmiV-eoF1XKpo3k1WfUOboXmamcz=w1547-h870-s-no

Thought I may as well give the tank a blow over too, Looking at least as good as the original paint and the colour is a very close match. A rub down and another coat should see this right. The toolbox covers will need more work but I can do them when I do the mudguards. It's a darker blue in real life the flash makes it look worse than it is.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84tcIu17UC3LCDoT1MeP61g1t-OX_TAV-B1LkbrE9pgqBL7U_c700n5pwAcDMvptiAKmtGhtLXpAW102G3axPyvVE61s_zUSE5QsEeZLocowTEEl3qHK8tyXERIASeNvxPqb9yoDxesC7QXetr7PPvL=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86qMv-H5pyFvFlPPFYKLjfq_L6zXAeP3FTcaIHUgx6d2S0qDdqOaDmL5f2y3_kBRH56wEQn0pkfLCTx14RAnzCHuzedP-nLnj_4W6zhLTYJnfklrDXbD5Z2UIErqOh6t8Q4ONC8cqSzYUftf0yAfWZU=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:36 - 04 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big day today, got the bike on the bench.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85yeVtk8kwjbtALpYM3nkLBI6Pa1Xg-uNrFxk4hnPuaHGqgKiAjiQN4kbb309-MwFvXf2B8jTUcR_tBFCr9ukCmu-VHz2UC31lSnr39yQ7TEGYUuNgIK8_ZuewoD1ryixhO7ZXBHPwuApfgBKFBBvOw=w1547-h870-s-no

Swingarm is dead simple, nut and bolt. It has a metelastic bush so I'll leave it loose for now, it wants to be nipped up tight at the centre of its normal swinging arc to avoid overstressing the rubber. So that'll be with the bike on its wheels and me sat on it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87NhNvUmrFEmMvcU6cJCxJy2VvEqU6Kn5IQopy_LlBmukd69eKbBFWKbUGy2-MIFM0VQR6_PSxIOFDR16OE4NRgCYqh-i-LUcViZPYEWcmpw5XULfbQOTW_qHJ_qCncDHGH2Ynzsc7uRrE1Jc2i1QLJ=w1547-h870-s-no

Found a brand new set of steering bearings in my boxes of bits.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV8660zNjCLns43WgP5399ljs6ZFEnD7iKhBWo5KWfhi6uRBuia-BXn3jsGcqNakAAVUJ87DHt3fNHsiOaE0XtYsAFyTKpPQM8791nfaUqcLr0Tje8wBpASKNfaU-NReJoo3wF-zFGGnSdsRwIjyXkBh2=w1547-h870-s-no

I've used UK bearings in them though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84GLLIfHOJGzWBkRKUw4CF-o8ITaakjv7tG7eNMWeQWvl8sQ85qmgYfgQcc16Vh-vPzY9ydmnyJa7MuIFykBy9g782xu-fnpHn26u5W-kihPOqI5CSb7Kl8Rxz0Gvk8XR9SDHDCd8jN7mksrr2tyO4_=w1547-h870-s-no

You fit the fork shrouds first then slide the forks up into them. I've held them with the lower pinch bolt for now, they'll need pulling up into the top yoke taper with the top nuts. They're a ball ache to fit so I'll wait for the fork oil to arrive. The shrouds were rattling loose when i first fitted them. The joys of buying a bike in bits. Careful searching turned up a couple of chromed trim pieces which fit in the top and make them a snug fit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85a6TOahJIkO6yjxxJE8AzBGhHByiymdgd0Aj7rYxlkEAdWu41PtRHg_o-1nM_4kJhvyjQGO7NBTxB1rCrdcKcaxq6a8BGhPfR3mx0gdkHbsecgYFvSDO6J7kpjHGTV5xE0hDS3pC7rs83it9oONlup=w489-h870-s-no

Here's a good example of what I'm fighting with. So how much fork oil and what sort? I found the diagram of the forks in my workshop manual and ran the relevant paragraph through an image recognition app them through google translate.

So we had "Напомним, что в амортизаторе должно находиться 150 см* веретенно­го масла АУ или его заменителей (например, смеси автола с керосином в пропорции 80:20);" which translated as "Let us remind you that the shock absorber should contain 150 cm* of AC spindle oil or its substitutes (for example, a mixture of autol with kerosene in a ratio of 80:20)."

Hmm, AC spindle oil? Ok, search for веретенно­го масла АУ. Which gave me a drum of oil on a Russian website which listed an ISO standard. ISO standard turned out to be for HH light hydraulic oil which makes sense. Found some of that from a UK vendor which listed viscosity specs. Cross referenced the viscosity spec on the Ohlins website to give me 7.5wt. So I need 150ml of 7.5wt fork oil in each leg. Phew!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84yPQpiGG7UsEhHAb12omk4p8l7w60ffIcxSdk8M_d97oOTbpJLGGVZy582PnNzRgzclUbf9gsLIwy5OyLSBxCwR7qdkqdwHm-P7t35PQ-GhBFmQBRk-kCTnc5JKmcG96zyjyIUroGqHTwcswZbPaR-=w1547-h870-s-no

The shocks look in very good nick. Time will tell but they'll do for now. The bolts are made of cheese so i've ordered some replacements.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84UCHJS3zw1Fe9O_UW2amo9Nl_GDn9kJIWUXu2hrAGyQsru8SjDnnF377bPGFXE6rHJ0NR0jauwMHfZe4AtI4zMXyMkOoq8fi0IZ9VNCnZ_45-CVNr1HHhyYyEhNWsUVpK2O9AKfTMJondH7p6QKavF=w1547-h870-s-no

Starting to look a bit like a motorbike. Wheels next I think.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87AY8ymNwMSyJa2ROhTwogm5uhXi8-ZFZyw6D-xrho4Q-dFy3Bwp-q5PbJVIOxaC7y58M6B7Z_Iy8g0uDMkYyLB6_VigQz428RqB7gjakHzf5cLAx58O2MJ-MbnoQO2PGh-MHQIr-ejS7f4oYbKds4_=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:16 - 05 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

No photos but I spent yesterday evening with three broken speedos. The correct one in which small but essential watchmaker-sized parts have gone ping, an incorrect one which is fully functional but has broken glass and doesn't fit in the dash and a third fully functional one that's too big.

I'd hoped to be able to put the guts out of the working ones in the smaller casing but nothing lines up properly.

It turns out the drive ratio is oddball. It's 19:10 which is exactly the same as used on BSA bantams (figures, they were both copies of the same bike) so I can't use one off another bike. Bantam copies are available but are a few mm too small for the dash. Could be made to work with a bezel adaptor and would be in mph.

I finally ordered a used one for a different soviet RT125 clone (a Voskhod). I'm hoping I can swap in the correct speedo face but if not, it'll do as-is.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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A100man
World Chat Champion



Joined: 19 Aug 2013
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PostPosted: 16:01 - 05 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
No photos but I spent yesterday evening with three broken speedos. The correct one in which small but essential watchmaker-sized parts have gone ping, an incorrect one which is fully functional but has broken glass and doesn't fit in the dash and a third fully functional one that's too big.

I'd hoped to be able to put the guts out of the working ones in the smaller casing but nothing lines up properly.

It turns out the drive ratio is oddball. It's 19:10 which is exactly the same as used on BSA bantams (figures, they were both copies of the same bike) so I can't use one off another bike. Bantam copies are available but are a few mm too small for the dash. Could be made to work with a bezel adaptor and would be in mph.

I finally ordered a used one for a different soviet RT125 clone (a Voskhod). I'm hoping I can swap in the correct speedo face but if not, it'll do as-is.


Sounds like a fun night in. I dismantled an old micro hifi in an attempt to replace the cd laser module.
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 02:02 - 07 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fork oil arrived so 150ml of 7.5wt in each. The top caps are difficult to fit, a very fine thread which has to be held in against the top of the stanchion and turned. But it uses a c-spanner. These pull the tapered top of the stanchion into a tapered top yoke.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85j_S4l0RytBKtrj2KYbskUtLFDdRH94umRV94RmlmzU9yesObmjyoPa6U_bJ5cUYklLwLTIa2BdQYPmsbsoK3zr4uBhut7Su054iPGyQYa2qAGF3pGTY4_WrvknS5KmzDrQoSxohSWpUr24FlLjl1s=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84_tLquX0zDFw-TAAu0bDaWJ4S2YruuV2Q-iLPnpeaHnlzAUc3NxU1VKgSKDiG8MvKIHjoQYW4VM_CBA9H4BmEZZaA1xUs118mKdJ_VxQeLlM-1SVWEBnS7t0sYLkd6KunRJzc_w1YaV2K7Y5y5aY3B=w1547-h870-s-no

New rubber sealed wheel bearings fitted in the front.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84FPUQ5afP5JVZWoFQX6Q7__CZ0_J-ex9I57jdj1LUrOF6umKG1pAZhg8oRE-1MQsIyfyYAsw_hKZ9wWPKVcjBkCT5vIJGgbKCj9D72lusU60KlmBmWRu1enl1xb4x-axWoFFMZmzjNApLnZzOq9ynF=w1547-h870-s-no

Speedo drive is a little unconventional compared to most japanese bikes but they seem to work well as long as you keep them clean and greased.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84L2Hg1zaq4lcSGQOMcHL5kI13jmnJ2OigFOw7FzGZXu_jkkeeEf-4s0ke_X_Tj1-ehDqOZ50QBgIx1RucO9j9vMEXrh5ICzzGIM9ceo5mtFGExQLCMUxafIDaQ5clFxbsBkpTJp5WfOTGoQakN040k=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85T8JSGL71tb8RLipzj2ktTdFh7jxX39MqRtmPPK0d8fwt6CAZA-ZvAq1DoQN9VvtKSv3AD-Kc3O9HouW6ytFKVAUyheGln-YAgtK-0DEWkffU-MP91AX9cj_CWcLWQOGLJPMpaXPJPVw0BSNu1pd_9=w1547-h870-s-no

I took some reference pictures to ask around about getting the shoes re-lined. Rivett on so should be fairly simple. There's a local HGV place that might be able to do them with ferrodo linings.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84NIpxkTtDUoIaJhh7leqk-3TJQ3xLHAjG2jXQTTEiwZVGFcMd4h73UOccerlPtxGDD5ATMBkA48wEbEfBVBg5cImjSp7oYVr0emqzMfmRgAaeQGbMww8ucsuF7OT_JzjsyOFXZpUXcjdf7TOQFTrb5=w1547-h870-s-no

Wheel in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85_Xku8K8-5InrU5eeEdd4-pCu03Bv_rLKm3iz4sP9F9CfKYNseqKJLGucTP_CuCE5Mh6jIHq4hDEOEwKT8HehY8_u-YbkgmHpFPQn106FuTkQMtizwAzBQpD4KBeBLyT2NYEfgiVu7fflHWYhLrpNs=w1547-h870-s-no

This looks odd, the end of the spindle seems to be sticking out a long way but it's all right and tight, fully butted against the bearings, wheel is central in the forks and and the forks are paralell. No missing bits according to the manual.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87OeT7QYyvE3C6j7HgL4ReAaB-95Cl_MN2KiC3oBgAdBVqpBwg2mktYBN-RN1m-1HBI9qr0R_p8vznsP8zoSg4A7ZyZDTJKBJACPgYIx_9QXaFZTTPk8bDXiCAHNDVUkT0WONAQjGlZfSdzpV7jH_zy=w1547-h870-s-no

Bar clamps, clock bracket and bars fitted. These are not the correct bars, someone obviously had an American cruiser thing going on. The manual gives exact dimensions of the original bars. Tricky to find because they have a very high rise (8"). I managed to find a set of 7" rise ones for a CB125F which have the correct kick-back but are a smidge short. They'll have to do. The originals are braced but I suppose I can buy a bolt-on trials brace if they wibble too much.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85hPYWy4gzAgqWiLSXOLCPmpQRy0MjjBFR885iSSrNgU4KGr5SjmJQMPgaF7Q8NtWBc5GC2JlHZ54fxL79PhFZTRb3yN0iYClq61Hbodgrz7ng622IRHzsz83pVV8kuBUnWrarncwwh1skvZJeqdBQn=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 22:41 - 08 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear sprocket today. It's a QD wheel with a fully enclosed chain. All the benefits of a shaft drive, none of the drawbacks.

On my last one three of these four bolts sheared.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV865Hd6KV0Bi_GLjBVrKkl1wiY0gpPGNF1WhLFwbcctjENgP5K0W1SrLNXufPIlIkp0JCCyJDjrmICZ1mV_adSozKoLFiXI9P9FK9jp80h10bqP1OvrB-L6LwKFIDohZaSrpIgW7TcaDDUUEmpRndzaD=w1547-h870-s-no

So I've replaced them with actual metal ones. Interestingly, they have clearly been on the bike from the factory as the locking pieces have only been bent once. Two of them were finger tight. Took 26 years to explain why that happened.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85mXltZEuKmibXrf0mdHoyyIF4UokSqgj5Q2QiZXbGxLAZALIK9w3-LEVFMXe7PbOfpEVkreCJkC-NlS7iUil5NaqCttjhqnpB0hPEiMBbC7dOALJ02OWsEva62FRDPL6AVMrsxkyU_7-_aYMF0kLa2=w1547-h870-s-no

i have the swingarm in upside down, the wider slot goes on the right.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87-rWGJ1pgDwewXgYVjiIBO5pfyXNrmetJeN0DV9cjcAqY1H5PxExzfdEzJk1RXL-WPk_bnXTizOjTjyLdMU27jEARpoYKw3_E-kIGxtMYTyKiyuJfKvJ3yPDU_LxskbvHB_QfFL4SShwX6_0lk7QdA=w1547-h870-s-no

Easy to swap round though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86uguexBM7n7wIcf62b-65s14oteLVeaZ5vknmLkSDFLhcnBmszBpTE1dKfNxKBPAmetcvNamRAcvC7tfTVv3IkXY3qnUTQlt8xI1D4qjPfiR2zTG0_q4I1KVx4EeTcmYv7xIxA_CscSiOEh85hRuBG=w1547-h870-s-no

The sprocket and sprocket carrier bolt onto the swingarm with a hollow spindle, this half of the chain enclosure needs to go on with it. New bearing in the sprocket carrier.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86tI6Lm3WlESsuGzLM9IncMziUbR6iSqSCipSsq8wtGurWvMmNli2IgxqKJjvjh1Xoq3Q3tQHtcgO_Yjw04GtMiqPBj_qILKMljL5GdVANym7NTLnenhW6zB8Z9sVXwosoENxsClUXmFrEcvG9nwhRf=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84GsikTLSaRv4j62PrW_9sM4nJlUPd_KxugexBHzlK9Fd4zkncKJ2l7zc11IURhPuPFzykpiz__oGsmnzUyt9LiWrNgGFTmquCfvrb8s73M2mSSFMj0BWpVCXF4KBI1fqZfnaLjS5jBMAwTxe8YBbM2=w1547-h870-s-no

Engine in! Easy job, lift it in using the kickstart as a handle. Only 4 bolts, again replaced with actually metal ones.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85xm01XO-w0r6TRqMbAABiIlSElBFRMxZ2xFqT6CemocNrswP7GByHOftgNlI1T5jENYhok1x_xHRLNxhWnC_2SLzmtuk2F2HSGVfyo21xUYlIoktg838KjwdIHXYmxIsn8KzLZ_c5ERqviEwk2cAHQ=w1547-h870-s-no

Fitting the chain is a bit of a ballache because you have to slide it through two rubber gaiters then somehow get the joining link in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84EgMdVzh-LD9YT5d00NfzSnzDXlz-daJm9TBWK1mnWpf9uh61NxbRc1FkjEe545YDJWeS-riAYUVQwVr6e0A_cW2-l_f4ZYeVIYqueotfV-6uW7hxTB_jFMYcCBXOH5g9HR2KygICWz26FuSg4MV01=w1547-h870-s-no

The more observant may notice the split link retaining "fish" clip buggered up as I fitted it. I'll have fitted a lot of these and this is the first time that's happened. A replacement link costs half the price of a full chain! Chains for this bike are cheap, 428 size. I splurged on an o-ring one. I don't anticipate having to touch it again for a long time after the initial bedding in adjustment. You can't get rivet links for these but I doubt the 9-ish bhp of this bike is going to overstress it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV859YhyAboadbBVl6zjyOMY9MYvJ1LGj0W9G5d-XHxJ_Pkbly0Gxp1n7TqFbaH3Mx6iKHsw6Ns5a2gMhtC_c6KsDvDZj6j9vdQGIMSkDfdIK_txiJS5dZIiJS_WMc7KjpWLYWO1p2fFwDsrMSOA5r4Dn=w1547-h870-s-no

Found a little bag inside a spare toolbox with the cush drive rubbers in. I like to put a smear of red rubber grease on them to stop them sticking and make it easier to mount the wheel.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84meHZvZV7M2kvFLAanjp0PBtXEVheGRar4R0Ll3aDdO1tYHeXOoUg8dNBqtwNpY2RZXKNgg7Zi8n4lsHoAISmfAU6505Ho3jnsZOTEHz0f7u8QpTpP5OGZoerV2QpfkhTlrZg6VmGJgJpbYfwF8w4r=w1547-h870-s-no

I'm at a standstill with that bit now until a new split link arrives because I need to fully fit the chain enclosure to put the rear wheel in.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86cfFk7yvtSDxniu6h6F3bUXV8mTEuHh4eeFp2JajArSkynWWKDNYOmRJlgj-H1cMzSl9KoTFTYVMqChwR4ZtU6FbGoUi9cmxN6QiHpWNlocvTC15sJEees3ce1H0yUlMRK7sb1s3ZfDrINUB1RJSU3=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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struan80
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PostPosted: 23:31 - 08 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never mind atoms, this is proper engineering Smile
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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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PostPosted: 11:05 - 11 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would wonder if an o-ring chain might be too wide and rub on the sides and wear through holes in the enclosing tubes, when they were built for non- o-ring 1/2" by 5/16ths chains. Question
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 11 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

blurredman wrote:
I would wonder if an o-ring chain might be too wide and rub on the sides and wear through holes in the enclosing tubes, when they were built for non- o-ring 1/2" by 5/16ths chains. Question


I also wondered this, I suspect the rubber is thick enough to self-clearance but I did take it into consideration.

It's actually supposed to have ISO 08B-1 chain which has a 16.7mm pin length. The 428 o-ring chain I have has 20mm pins. (That said, the same brand (JT) non o-ring chain has a 20.8mm pin length Confused.)

Putting it another way, it'll be 1.65mm over-length either side. I feel pretty ok about that.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:40 - 13 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spring clip arrived and fitted. Put the rear wheel in, I made a cock-up here, there was a spacer that definately went with it but I wasn't sure where. I put it where it seemed to fit but it was wrong and there was an almightly crack as a bearing let go when I tightened the spindle down. Spacer was butting against the balls, not the race.

I've worked out where it goes now and new bearing on order, I left the wheel in so I can do other parts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84wUssMs3a94Ea9pUzqZyAjqK7eAfvL1CWVTJ1VZBAEefpVlQplOW3XGL6xx0bMa8rAEzoBBYs6d7W_zGPZMBCjnYc51Ve0WJUiJQskD7zPSFJZfiZ6yLVTwKnV7758ihB2OXZ82wEF1qfenQerR_5S=w1547-h870-s-no

Chain enclosure all buttoned up, hope to not have to go in here again for a long time. New dome nuts for the shocks.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84kvAEUKe7hXQrS03dJv4fUoFwEljcYx7-fcy_f6l4dWIPmXz5R11BPP0TVJLPxWSRCfIFcr0bMV1AeMLjhSQ1QoFTejomTOyIvjg62oDrxAUUj5WRQwszyXs7VwJcGDB-962oP-WTwJkjeamlUsbrU=w1547-h870-s-no

New rear mudguard. Needs some artistic licence because the original ones are pressed out and have a varying radius, a valance and integral brackets, no chance of finding one like it so I've gone with a standard universal one. The bracket is 4" radius and I have a 5" radius mudguard but steel is very forgiving and it pulled up into the bracket.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84PLBz5wPnpagXIK135x6XQhhy2VIWNXkMsXprmIYOwri9HeeqcyCG7MJNkmsA6N6PlhXANt5txbIdDwWkdQcbuGpY7hBRRzdKhK1CNKB2U0PeupHj47KW0UhlNLIgXEh_GD_FQO9UapzNCVWg3nMUU=w1547-h870-s-no

Looks a little odd because the original ones have a tighter radius on the rear half so this sticks out a ways. Not as bad as it looks in this picture though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV862kRPyk2wMm6oqdTKxZaooO6ivOrmQ0z6VzgjlxGGmTaSOHrPPmu3Dq60Rn0qd3-Shu70B7W1H7zTw41EXMjKCwXN--VexbTWtpSUd_bBqo3dB6INDB6Pb9A6AbhfvQJYuNn7DkUQzg4B7CUwKLBRu=w1547-h870-s-no

The tail light bracket withh pull into an alignment with a little bending.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84VRsISvGXMueOngsT49bUIQf-JTsZ1UXUdBIMgGVPuQlgg_DFqq93lXd5xS9TgA8e4NCkMLEx1aDOv1rIKyHwi_NM_2VqDaqrpixjuWK9uMuwisfUp3_oJrMecEOF-JO2yGVgSWItsmyI9k1e4bAAD=w1547-h870-s-no

I may make a little rubber mudflap to fill in this gap.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85r_WlC1l2ZchPN7JezGAevGQ5GRHdduotfHsXEay3YuJ1nrkACRhQ-EDzLvoeKhe9pnYpgNAmWrtgBxvwFuZw3MUoi8H5QqCTOUIoKeoSHCe8a37CGeTPQnacUt5S7ko3OxGTQ2npKMUjdiUZ6_x6z=w1547-h870-s-no

Back of the seat pan fouled the mudguard so I applied a little percussive clearancing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86af-NyWfCWoq420AtFuymJQkGfnpb3zKONLZuFGfdfwzyTbROBNUr7C4Ntsgr49wvU7MFXY84MIR-NCD-2nZxfeEc1bdKuvZx-RgH2XCwwyJLMWkVnV28ZPw_Ikw77wCkYbQBWuEXGdOiE-zuwecmd=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86vpNbytreJ8xYvGDy_repZ2a5g3DGIk3nMa3TGQDHPG-W23y45sBd-LJT6s4ul4hLizdTwz4L51Gp2h0P3-bsx2oi-cS_J7u06WSLL1Y9p5yu21Z7jJnBd29iuLXsPuoCJKS_6usCw7l2yIUhLeMGv=w1547-h870-s-no
This bit will be a challenge. I've made up a CAD design for these integrated brackets. I'll try and hammer form them from one piece but if that doesn't work, I'll cut out the face them weld/bronze the top strip to it. So I need to learn to hammer form bodywork and TIG weld. Hammers and steel on order. At least it's a stretch, not a shrink.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84J-ic5L8IaK5smvRkXdO6DKQjoycev3ECwJaI6mdOSm_kTpYo2Se9uo7oSC8EUJx1GYGqrsJ6wwZpuCF4G5wzXrxGqracrs0oAEZBXLiTLkxdUkPAr5t5chg9-G7KLYWjmTxq_bj4XuAwr0QdFHcio=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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virus
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: 23:39 - 13 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

That mudguard looks like It will give you advanced warning of tailgaters Laughing

In other news, It is definitely looking like I'm going to owe you a pint in the not too distant future Thumbs Up
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:19 - 14 Jan 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mudguard isn't as bad as it looks there. Suspension is at full droop.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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