Minsk 125. CCCP era 2-stroke commuter of the people.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

They are BZP screws. Originals are bare steel cheese-heads.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

A100man · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :

Easy-X · Super Spammer Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :

Looking at some Google Images of various Minsk 125 builds and all the mudguards look pretty naff Wink

____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, ~~Honda Rebel,~~ ~~Yamaha DT175,~~ ~~Suzuki SV650 (loan)~~ ~~Fazer 600,~~ ~~Keeway Superlight 125,~~ ~~50cc turd scooter~~

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

A100man · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

virus · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :

Looking good. Are these ignition switches the ones where the key looks kinda like an old headphone jack and allows you to start tractors?
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

WD Forte · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :

The CDI box, coil and RR remind me of the Moby conversion I did
but the stator unlike the Moby one, looks like it might actually put out some useful power
If that's yer typical AC CDI setup then yes, you do need a switch that closes when in the off position and vice versa so hopefully flipping the wiper will do that.

Deffo stick a cap between the lights live supply and ground, it makes them very stable
and brighter
the Moby was here last week and all the led lights are still working well from tickover upwards.
As I recall I fitted a 330uf axial electrolytic I had on the shelf but
a radial cap would probably offer easier ( one ended) termination and locating
a bit like you'd connect up and strap in a flasher relay.
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bikers smell of wee

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

I have a couple of 4,700microfahrad 50V radial capacitors left over from my enfields (I keep them in the toolbox on flying wires so I can plug them in if I get a flat battery).

Reckon one of those would do it?

I'm going to fit LED lighting because why wouldn't you? Only potential snag I can see is a single indicator tell-tale. Obviously that won't work with the standard setup with the tell-tale bridging to two sides, all the flashers would light up (they're non-polarity sensitive LED bulbs). I was going to take a wire from each side of the flash switch to one pin of the tell-tale, earth the other and fit a diode inline in each incoming leg to prevent backflow.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

Easy-X · Super Spammer Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

WD Forte · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :

Flasher relays eh?
This just reminded me I have some sitting on the window sill.
I made batch of them a few years ago and recently dug them out
with the intention of testing them
I think they're ready to be used but as I didn't put labels on them I'll have to check
to be sure.
They're based on a 555 timer and a Mosfet driver and when I tested a few way back
found they would work from 6v to 24V on blubs leds or any combination of such.
Sticking them in APS film canisters made them easily waterproof too
As I recall the 3 wires were for Power in, Ground and Flashes out
which when grounded via switch and led/blub, started the flashing process.

A tell tale would work as you described with a solitary led
grounded on one side with inputs from both indicators fed via diodes.

After I've tested them I'll bung a couple in a jiffy bag and post them to you
if you want

https://imgur.com/VEuWCm6.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Thanks for that but I'm good for a relay, put one in the order with my bulbs.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

WD Forte · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :

Re the 4700uf cap, it will be probably be fine but
a smaller cap in parallel with it may help smooth any high frequency spikes
the big cap cant respond in time to.
I didn't bother on the Moby as it just ran 2 leds and nothing else
but some electronic gear 'dont like it up em' as Corporal Jones would say.

It may well be fine as is but bear it in mind.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Not much time or energy tonight but the clock is ticking on my self-imposed deadline. I have to remind myself I don't need to start a big job. All the jobs need doing so it's better to do something than nothing.

To that end, left switchgear arrived because the original one's had a short in the indicators and has burned out the brass and bakelite terminal slider. I could probably make up a new one but it would take a lot of time and effort so i bought a good used japanese one (I find it's almost always better to get a good used OEM componant off a decent brand than to buy a new "universal" one). This is off a kawasaki of some sort. Internal wiring checks out for what I want to do.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87nL_m0qshyDBk9L0wJ_y0KlzdM43CNDzzHrlnw6stVAmxZGds8YRRjcghvAcaIkFYQZFJq-Z-KQTuEQSf_kSu09y9qixpIHkGJJozZQ5I72hx3TmB_nCtjObcAxlKvxCcLNvsWwUC4EIx7qQf-Y6u7=w1547-h870-s-no

My M7 bolt fit perfectly so the ignition is now installed. Timing should be close enough to work from.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86T5CgXVLdnW7FMX-0OVwS8KrPXrZRwPOG-AH_W-nMVR0PxxsH1A7AxYRWO5ZXU_FyoRK2la8-tO4ckW71veQowEb4k2qt3HEbc3Ly3dmtEQtu0j7w5mDf978tHdQvej-ShHml3H5X2sUM_-WoAz3oj=w1547-h870-s-no

I'll give the Ukranian HT lead and plug cap a miss I think (I'll be junking most of the wires and connectors that came with the kit too unless they are kit specific). I checked with the meter and it's a non-resistor plug cap. Hard to find. Also funky but good quality copper HT lead left over from the trials bike.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84_ddGGSTVwHJt_xcCotYReb1Swcuy30XsRetYs6UUI1bS3LN-Jsg0l_Nn1wXopq2zkl4NnZ3yv5BoutJuoOlhNxs_NguKk1U2UtTOL7XVLNxaWfEIwuQ8M3TWR4Dx-6dzjC9kS2bf3UIGATv5HNrxV=w1547-h870-s-no

Turns out the footpegs i got cheaop and thought I'd have to paint are actually stainless, not mild steel. Or they are non-magnetic in any case. They came up a bit short for the brackets so I had to fit a spacer plate in the back to prevent them drooping. This took way longer than it should have done, I drilled and tapped a hole back into the bracket and bolted a piece of 4mm flatbar to it as a striker/stop for the peg. I suppose this has the advantage of being replaceable and adjustable as the thing wears over age. Most bikes seem to land up with anhedral footpegs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV853Rr2RQIayHDlxd617bTd9xP48WeKqqjPpNiWu1Z-ZlB3xWYOMjFieJQjG_aeWuydSrT1rOV34ElQ5MsTcf1TYZbI5BPc9ytnjWnTxKjgKByI9x7QmaQdb2tJNb7i6OoUJC3k9TXNZaPpMCaKdB2OU=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87ixqchwnE14Nw3MzvJZ6CwW0KsU1-_wSyazB2TIWFAbpPbeWIeTiTe19m_YuA1kLnLapIlkCep4iPNpeSQ4Ui5TiuFVO_cBvMQ8lcHYi5mMeeMjElpSFgoHZlZfjMcfwrsRMDlFR0DeZUFriJqZt74=w1547-h870-s-no

Hope to tackle some of the wiring tomorrow.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

A100man · World Chat Champion Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :

Are you sure you didn't just chop the flex of your Mum's iron for that HT lead?

Ref switch gear - agreeed. Going to be on the hunt soon for some for the A100 front end upgrade.. Thinking YBR 125 master cylinder etc..
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Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Fpr the last few days, I have mostly been wiring. Take-homes. Mini connector blocks were a bad idea, should have used full size, the tabs on the crimps aren't long enough to take two wires properly and there were quite a few places I needed to double-up. I used multicore wire for most of the runs of cable between componants. I think this was a good diea but it gets confusing because you have to keep switching wire colours. However, the connector blocks take a lot of the guesswork out if something needs chasing through later.

I like to deal with the "parts" seperately. So ignition. Wire up the CDI and run a kill wire up to the dash. I'm using this toolbox for the wiring. The actual airbox is seperate to it, this doesn't have any functional part in the combustion cycle other than to keep the air filter dry. I'll be drilling holes and inserting grommets as i need them.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84BV3GfnvSpyytbmanQ9gWVBlJxkY_agH0_uStasdORZtcv5G3_IJIl-gBxIYqhc_PAuhlNvIS3K4RPFHiIm5ssldcwFwIM--s0E30TctyeDOaNLSaGwfAg0Kfnz30ZQ6UQxUFZWLrr25SFtI2L_KzN=w1547-h870-s-no

Run a good frame earth. May as well hook the reg/rec up to it directly. Scraped the paint off and silicone greased it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86xb-oqSJiWi4SCJpUkqhwb509AVU6_3_3_AUJiVROsy5HrbkgGkGoP_fgN6zN_-bJnA7Rnvg_cOkJuuQIVkZeJao_1Vo4BCgGbY6nqyR7L8INRGASSo4e_TjlqTL_q7EOMjThgzZv8HCIs31YCgyjO=w1547-h870-s-no

Amazon special air filter. I just got a cheap one because I wasn't sure it was going to fit. Drilling a hole and trimming bits off the boot on a £12 filter is much less scary than doing it on a £40 one. I'm sure it'll do, if it seems strangled, I know what style fits now.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84wI1vLMA0vFqvgxM39NiYFTb9xeYKofscaanWhvSZUKvTS_H2I9FkocjkPNpbbK-ui7wGEPDgu8y3EzBpdsPf0p20rKT5j1MypAwOpmB65zDnimrSGtJUhMJ6Z_CWRElMETKDvEkdSsiaDkcRHIbqX=w1547-h870-s-no

Main fuse fitted and power to the flasher relay. I'm copying the manufacturers technique of "daisy chains" for live feeds and earths.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84RuF-HA59-RIevAZtYoKRx1qj7Lvd6N287xVqbfME1mvpo6o2W5dEyHszpFOz-tb24WKpAzIOR7WTKsAPaVwvC4z26EjoXYY_tGC7sDcp8CK2oV2vwOLsL5UAB1UccnVnORyA0yvQlha3wzOWcTjTb=w1547-h870-s-no

Dash lights and ignition switch (really a kill switch). I'm wiring in all the bits first and taking the cables back to just behind the headstock, then I'll connect everythign that needs connecting. A 5-core wire here.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85IwIC6Crb5Rg3TpUPewhMDS8YSBQJOsYBPSZM280wQ1e-PtZgnzrARovAhByl0SA2zl6Pa9FlmIYJ0REeAsHNHFR6nVFW2idzi3ZHlCnaKYvmT6Jjn0OAmS6ro1MM7f_ZKiOuQFSJ24pZ69AUhQzaH=w1547-h870-s-no

Headlamp needed one to carry the main headlight power, sidelight and earth. Another cable to take the sidelight, flasher repeater and main beam tell-tale up to the dash. Thirs twin core with left and right flashers.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85Lqo-ZXzCDlorXD8dK38n2oYlRqe2k6WkyY17Aptjw4JhFYmNrIU2ysMTvnl53zZkOYU2M-C25DFOkW1BbWt-Xp7RgdwvhAT4-HWzSX1nAjRfgfjJOAJ3fs1IqDkGw07ETHOM-EM6CiiereD4R9H6L=w1547-h870-s-no

Switchgear coming down.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85hWckizIPM5dt3r5oupAEWJntiEqrNvyWxLrUJMXmjgPU8p_ZuguTeZDYNffDiBHUhYbBoEZXoWXD4dIqz6UuJgp9z-pMnlJfOamRDPu66026uGn9zMIKGOv_9ZMoWN59Cd1TFVuNNNTLwciiWtlD2=w1547-h870-s-no

Flashers on. These are terrible flashers. Lucas "replicas". Where lucas used dodgy chromed zinc-based pot metal, these use chromed plastic. I couldn't believe my eyes though, they copied them exactly, even down to using the casing as an earth. The bulb normally earths through the indicator stem by virtue of the bulb holder base being screwed to the indicator body. Only this is made of plastic. It's earthing through the chrome paint! (and miraculously, they do actually flash) I've ordered some diddy ring terminals and I'll run an extra wire back from the bulb holder to a common earth inside the headlamp shell.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87nDwbVm_okcxPCSyuBReUyl4BsumtHG8j3zgNvq9LxNwFyuqNFLS0OevT0DRY8EK9j0Ape5n2AKVTXEXM4f3NN5UauBrk8wvK1XVPuO62Uy92lLhOVt2AVFWNjz1i6C8-SF0KQNw1jfcaWhG2W37cJ=w1547-h870-s-no

Many hours and lots of busted mini crimps later... This will all be under the tank. I was tempted to run the wires in through the square holes in the gusset plate but i think they'll be perfect for routing the clutch and throttle cables.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84BGTeuDw1RKWxw3OQ-bGr5Oj8raPCW31DKnRlM9GwpsEwe6Jg2HETClEBkaDbjEjPZJESx6Av7V1d2xZd53G1zSoDRebrJpD2kBY_ushrZ8-JxmZwPkNcr3a66cSg5POBG0qrSz2ssBIPC9lUbdmuf=w1547-h870-s-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86HVzz92dYxgwuX5xYsHRTiQCDPVN_hBJzWpDHM8rioW5KVAo6M-79QK-sMX904t2NzdrdbuNwpnHttAgcaS3_a5KUZyKaYIQPiahmBtNFG6KCI9rQZmSlVktMrE2PVOXTc-jK6NoNSaNkkKpAcLnzL=w1547-h870-s-no

Flux capacitor.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84viFr-ubCD1SPqcn08tK3NJWJ788e6ktRBpfguKqIy6Tdb_Ih8EOnKUitq-gPemZr-xYb5ay-9OKsfxFUPynaiohP_9AOPYuLU_dTV0rfj7OTgLqRWCB5VA34j02UvO4R3Py1VnZZ2ltwaTwnp1-WJ=w1547-h870-s-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85sAFGNq0uWLhpAWnExMmNJIPmvj0d9QOtQwF3R2l_CxMMpqpbAxFSYaqxJbA8bzHETmIP5pui9NCtjDCAVFunSHSizmEjA-R17Y4vTNZq907XiHWhA6iRL1BfNk6tKnXMW0dmT6hZ7Q42COaQCvCfs=w1547-h870-s-no

It's actually an anti-reverse diode circuit so I can use one flasher tell-tale for both sets of flashers.

Starting to look more and more like a motorcycle. The battery on the seat is for testing purposes. Headlamp and flashers all work.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86siVeQ2D6lxJvGLS8Iuek7tko5Ins45g5SNMsEkCn6DMpOyd-cwHKELDL1qENRoVIhAPol_84XNRN3RA4pb9IdJ4PsYhZNPSqQo_ubm5AI6NqzBXlsPKD-6Qa2jJcrjGxCEdKOTc0VBmWLkKdOE3UM=w489-h870-s-no

Dash lights all work too. Speedo is the original face and casing with the guts out of a Voskhod speedo in it. All for show anyway, as I recall, they all just swing about violently anyway.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86kMXuT_MKaBfPm1DI8bfUFFrFFPDXlzcxRI66_LoJmIEzqzryzJ4PyJ9E8ZCbmgRta6SyDYl1mreDQO-uZOq3GUiZVteDyfPKjCttbWfJXv_HCaogSPFb6vYBZMTgikRUbDhyaj0VeFBXuKfUHdk2F=w1547-h870-s-no

Neatened things up a bit on here. Mounted the CDI on an alloy bracket. I'll stick the flasher relay in with some sticky pads. Found a bag of spare 10A fuses which can stay in there. Twoi flyng wires left over for the rear brake switch which i haven't figured out yet and wont until I get the brake shoes back from the re-liners.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86UOQB_uYQckt3psfj3q47JzFTaWJ7IMwNirp3rQFCqnYy-4Wi67TRLP_UJFVFs2_E1FaCtNuV6I_UUDmmJKP1dwSlPhE4lv7gpobSexAP6E5hd3GREZn8TUJ7Ejl6-v8GNftJ6l6XZyW2fXwjupbQ1=w1547-h870-s-no

It's really tricky to measure centre and level on a curved mudguard. Tail light bracket fitted and a piece of over-long multicore wired in for the back end. Routing will depend on how I get on with the mudguard fabrication which is the next big job.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87H5MwSNi9JDevgLs6gXuwkSxdOulU4N0vQbibIwGn_v2I5_dbxw9iQU5rUSBH_PmxdkY28-YS_E12b2ItJDYnBy1R47jKs_4OR_rPy7E3XBkr9wrecCazyfqSpLw7bLD78Y6eNkCJRkSje_F9maEEI=w1547-h870-s-no
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

Ok, panel beating. Never done this before but I watched a youtube...

Got my CAD template. Marked out on a thick piece of MDF. Because this tapers to a point, I've only done the top curve because otherwise the form will be too thin at that point to be hammered on. The plan is to cut out the bottom curve once the top one is beaten in because then the steel itself will support the form.

Second form slightly undersize to allow access to the edge for beating. Also marked out the steel with the excess for turning the flange and folding the edges.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV873xOhQ-zdlY2fs9OfWA_vWyPj7B3eJT-CF-Nf9-1LgFhWAa_JWj-zPHZmoxZ4Cf9wluj5RQcQSmDF8JLku_gnqK5-OyZQl8MK0g58P9oNenzqdIQKyktWE19BlT4_arADqXcUqcExlfZWuUQrjceCS=w1547-h870-s-no

It turns out the best way to do this is to cut out with a jigsaw to just outside the lines then use the tin-snips to cut the last bit out. Had the jigsaw out anyway to cut the forms. Broke my last blade just as I was finishing up so I'll get more tomorrow.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84WHEqC0jV_NyWFWj8Si0r2H5sM68RS6layVtQUuIyKsfX4PE8MetrQFsZ8cFXZRJgwffcAso74J2XD-_nl5S0D5q9poM8M7ba9Hd1WUe6rHEkSnnjEccHZYJTQ3a3CcJ9bL0lSGt0V6RZRJA3h5o8b=w1547-h870-s-no

Then a case of clamping it in and start stretching metal. You might see I got a bit too enthusiastic here and also made some mis-hits which dimpled the metal nearer the edge. That is a pain in the arse because this is a stretching operation. It will continue to be a pain in the arse.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87lvYjmMgKzTBKyQbfx__hzxVr24aTaJCVyL6ahf0R1W7Jw-8G1tQ1WzNy98LrUQDxT6LVitKWuTkSNbSmGmXm1uRoUXMG1EVIkKiH5lshh4i1FqkuHPmt4LgldATRDaamiRXc6_npyZOSasjIVUkj-=w1547-h870-s-no

Further progress but you can see where I overstretched the metal is starting to cause tucks. This necessitates shrinking instead where you use a rounded hammer instead of a flat one and hammer down on the tucks. I fought on with this for quite a while.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86pCmdIjq8Bvk2U4R4HlHqqn9DiCHpoXOJ5DsuXQ9Yoy9XeIC2hkYxjkSyl9fxTNmN0C6isr_07lb1aSN3bqOc6lf7v5_XPxPHt_NFT66Z10cmRSOd08vNQgcZX8Qle0OgJ_Htc4BgLjIL9aPQo_5um=w1547-h870-s-no

Got it most of the way there but those tucks started breaking away the edge of the form so this is as far as it goes in the form.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85NazcV4BaCaJXFzTrr3HfOiVKCw-8o80q9FBJp-0cnGVC_Mh0_C4MpCPMB2m-xoAmM9ez9YqYWiNJFk-_CFdYfEbP2AEJPwsDhkiFCOPWcrBnN8leCxfRrVtPrkbMsN4_8Da_70AJxXqKL3gFaV3D7=w1547-h870-s-no

I went to working with a shrinking hammer and curved dolly and managed to get the tucks out. Still need to do the shrunk curved edge at the bottom but that's more of a lip than a flange so a certain amount of tucking will be fine as long as the edge itself is clean. Frankly, enough hammering for one day but I think the next one will go better.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84BDmBBhC5EcQuwWcP5TUkZ3TCAv61cxgybJiAGItS5Rkf25RpSKVV2Y5YixR1PsttRMdZU4b8jpdKtSMfsPxo1-5kyZDwJuUdYfYoPL_lvbH1aDTvnuWUa9OHX1vK3iqu4KR5GCOrrtvs22o5zWqXF=w1547-h870-s-no

Fore reference, here's what i was shooting for.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84J-ic5L8IaK5smvRkXdO6DKQjoycev3ECwJaI6mdOSm_kTpYo2Se9uo7oSC8EUJx1GYGqrsJ6wwZpuCF4G5wzXrxGqracrs0oAEZBXLiTLkxdUkPAr5t5chg9-G7KLYWjmTxq_bj4XuAwr0QdFHcio=w1547-h870-s-no

What did I learn?

Slow down, less impatience. Keep the hammering to the edge of the form and away from the edge of the steel. The steel will take care of itself and it's better to spend longer stretching than to have to shrink the edge of the flange.

Leave more excess on the edge. it can be trimmed to fit later, I have made this just barely wide enough.

Make the forms more oversize by extending the length of the curve about another 1" or 1 1/2". As you get near the edges, it's tricky to keep the steel hard against the form and it has a tendancy to warp away from it. That warp can be accounted for and trimmed later.

Even with slowing down, I reckon the next one will take half the time.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

rpsmith79 · World Chat Champion Joined: 31 Jan 2017 Karma :

That is some impressive work, especially for a first time effort Thumbs Up

____________________
Current Bike: ~~Honda CG125 ES4~~ // ~~Honda CB600FS Hornet~~ // Triumph Street Triple R

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

A break from panel beating. The saddle latch is missing and I couldn't remember how it worked. Unsecured saddles are a pet hate of my MOT tester (he hates the sprung lycette saddle on my Bullet) so I thought I'd better sort it out. A lot of looking at rusty scrap seat bases from Eastern block bikes on ebay eventually prodded my memory. It has a simple bent spring plate with a hole in that goes over a peg on the frame.

Needed some thin-ish spring steel because normal plate will just bend. Stood looking round the shed for a long while when my gaze fell on an old wood saw. It was really cheap and doesn't cut very well. I haven't used it for over 10 years. So some metallurgy, how do you saw a saw? Heated it to critical temperature and allowed to cool to anneal the metal. It's high carbon steel so should now be austenite which is the softer form of the steel.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85ksAZoGACWfnyvVE4iPDh6QUh1wv4OlqgPA3xDyJljUK2GJoXJb_STtuuXqUERbDnd9Q05y4OhXAhyDoY90fyf4h-nggrim8ManU0qu900oNRKdB7k6T6cYwVjIXByufsrhxMyhBvoquQRxWZiI5nY=w1547-h870-s-no

Sure enough, this softened it to the point it could be cut and drilled and bent without snapping. Then I took it back up to critical temperature and quenched in rapeseed oil. A file test showed it was now hard as glass. I then torch annealed it to a purple colour to put some flexability back into it so it doesn't snap in use.

A really simple thing but I'm pleased with it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86Ifnsg4gHfVapnyDBCtfYDgS87u_Jtf1rYLMwErvqRVXq5__BXjx5R6u8kH4Ecvj1-RYKfJDgFRgyfXn3BiH63clWcZCTrTlqmcVWts9K9yeCc5VRIQ1gL6fYt-OuQfVmXGBKaukG9UVMwSNBKZ7SR=w1547-h870-s-no

Looks just like the original.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85v4nt_w5BCy4OT7gVWYi_M2hTRkSWnVirwMcUFaZaz60sqhRFIn3CuLjdvhGQnTk_cORe5J-FtLcY8NP7mZuGMrxPK_tSIW8W3uvZBzHbRDDsrSjZMx1niG_wZeWswPM-WSLnWBWUGAVl37xgWGuP3=w1547-h870-s-no

Horn fitted and working.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85jvomwkShpJ499HfPjSq5mChayHI3VnbZjTSCOASNJ_8Gu4ggTGjhX92L1J9AbwxiTFbWclzfy8dnnr4ZTMekmjLoDLDpxgSmH02eNrZyOeFqoXj1pYC3xiWohxfKERoTB_NHuT1aE9FxY6brc4O5b=w1547-h870-s-no

Found the twist grip and made up a throttle cable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV87ZQWnU8sVRmkDcaBTI6S8GY9eZRam2yBciiT8YF29EnX7Am-uxhqDz-4aZhEBEvh6MYf9RGyE4FLfu8oyM4KQMDmD8lPKJDTw1qxBdlM6EiHmK6GGDxvmG3AKBwdncMzBpWnoseaxYyzftUzi-6ajg=w1547-h870-s-no

Attached to the carb. It's ready to bolt on as soon as I get hold of a manifold.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84H5eeJP2gD_JiL0m53tEG_yC35ty2EY1woB-wHtT3b3iPKA1UquRXGo2kWZInmjAMEsTHg-ysGbiqLmeNJYxEs_G7nbPi20krExOyIQfMCWmD4C1YVIHUO8WywxVla8asEJBzhBqtlLnBWshybZz3t=w1547-h870-s-no

Made up a clutch cable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84kSai141sHvd-A36iTqCcVl9wkyO06gbqTpFkqPkwx9YzpSG94MDy-p6TZ8x8USw8oQsMzIoBUnIj4tNLVdgYoJYxMZOzudKxKsZqFNXcH88cFqluPjrumCQtJ5DvmdrZhJI8Q9EW_WdL0wx0F9QYl=w1547-h870-s-no

Header pipe loosely fitted. Mostly so i could route the clutch cable which goes under the engine.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV84XhRMS2MKArhfwXAF43frGhSgwyX7IeyTp8cBZvnTk_ZBPZ8C9Caaqxpln5-i0B1FBPL4GhI0502avFnx6C-qhFtFIG83d36heGRf9QzushDSzglFHahZJj8r-gIDsnJIJBMMtW4FIfqRN237p2Wmj=w1547-h870-s-no

Re-lined brake shoes arrived. Had a moment of panic when I fitted them and they were too tight, had a devil of a job getting them back out of the hub. A few strokes of sandpaper took enough off the surface to allow some movement. The brake is rod controlled and very simple. I also like how it's tucked up out of the way trials style.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86rNPcY8Q1uCJtFsx2XhlIRrREIae6mOMKzmq_x56b4xTtrtlXh1_2hjJqvzpHPqj6FAfSatLu8AMZXp6rPhWY3LfKw2N0jNo01bcsRujr4_-P26G6sHPypkI6GnXT0SRJWBK2H8Vu94FNW3nDEN_Az=w1547-h870-s-no

I have no idea how they usually do the brake light switch. I had a spare Japanese style pull switch so I made up a bracket for it. I can't be far off the mark because it has a handly hole in the end of the brake rod hook which must be for a switch to attach to.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV85od0RdrQlgEJXRB5X8O6RIIyuAuuJ6ZT6BN4fKh4bQZ5rG8mtEmYnYneumjGTKdCC-Q1cab6mVPPbk06WH2r_2k9QM9-4DQEzCO8uOzuE96KctEpr4swDjexBhvdqQxlewWrjzqIjhPiSJACKEJc4c=w1547-h870-s-no

Front shoes also fitted, still need to do the cable for it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ABLVV86sY9a6SWTPNT595XKNckYNCzH0BIPIBPFG5mA7AmQDuXhWSfarYZmIt6KNg6BxH3SmR8z6i1iof42hc7sdwR8ocSdXXkFBNXDDU7IaSiIuttlm6V8VRjeXQOxBj5W9-MEttojXHK5YWE_pbFXOc9UY=w1547-h870-s-no

All the wiring is now done except the stop/tail light and rear flashers but the cable is already run ready so it just needs routing, cutting to length and connecting up.

Need to sort out the exhaust (maybe just set fire to it, it's minging with 2-stroke sludge and spilled gear oil). Also need to get the mainstand off my spare frame and order a numberplate. Main effort now is to finish up the mudguards then i can paint them and complete the assembly.

Lack of inlet manifold is worrying me. If I can't get one, I'll have to have one made up and it's a bit of a complex thing, more than I can do. It's just a block with two stud holes but it goes from a round to a square port and I have a horrible feeling the two faces aren't paralell. I know a guy who is a dab hand with a mill but he's not quick at getting stuff done.

I may even contact the guy I got this from and buy one of his spare engines. It wouldn't be wrong to have one in case something critical lets go.

Also, not to be outdone, one of my neighbours went out and bought himself a twinport Voskhod 175 last week. It's a work of art with "space age" integral chrome racks, bullet shaped headlamp and an alloy shrouded carb. It's also a worse basket-case than this was, he'll have his work cut out. I may well have some spares that'll fit it, I had a look and they share some parts in common.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

virus · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :

What material are you looking at for the inlet manifold? I may be able to help, pretty quiet at work currently so I can do some quick turnaround CNC stuff without slowing down other customers due dates.
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own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :

virus · World Chat Champion Joined: 17 Aug 2006 Karma :

Understandable, I've spent my morning measuring up replacement panels for my mums greenhouse. Its been so windy this last week my neighbours wheelie bin is on a speed awareness course Laughing

____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

stinkwheel · Bovine Proctologist Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :