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Tiger 1050 ignition switched supply for phone charger

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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 18 Feb 2024    Post subject: Tiger 1050 ignition switched supply for phone charger Reply with quote

My son has a 2016 Tiger 1050 Sport.

He's got a wireless Quadlock charger on his handlebars but it's draining the battery.

I've had a look under the seat, there are some fuses that would be suitable to tap into (that are off when the ignition is off and power up when the ignition it turned on) but I don't really want to piggy back the fuse itself and the fuse holders themselves don't look like they have enough wire underneath to be comfortably pulled up and to one side while I solder a nice neat heatshrunk connection behind the fuse holder.

Looks a bit agro to do a nice tidy weatherproof job.

I refuse to use scotch locks and I'm reluctant to use a piggyback fuse in the fuse socket itself.

Am I missing something?

Is there an easier location to get ignition switched power from?
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:08 - 18 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rear brake switch. Has a switched live feed, is an easily replaceable part, is easy to run wiring to under the seat and is a redundant system. I generally just cut the live on the switched side and re-join it with a couple of bullet connectors with the extra wire in one of them but if you are feeling particularly fancy, you could wiggle the connector out of the block on the switch side, apply a new crimp with two wires in and click it back in.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 22:16 - 18 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front headlight, it's on when the ignition is on.

Edit: According to my wiring diagram there is a connector for some heated grips and also two connectors in the topbox but for the life of me I can't work out if they are switched. The heated grip connector on my sprint is so presumably the Tiger is as well.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 20 Feb 2024    Post subject: Re: Tiger 1050 ignition switched supply for phone charger Reply with quote

DUCAUDI wrote:
...I refuse to use scotch locks and I'm reluctant to use a piggyback fuse in the fuse socket itself.

You're smart to avoid scotch locks, those things are trouble. The suggested sources of switched ignition power will probably charge a phone without issue. If you later decide to install heated grips or a connector for a heated jacket, you would be better off using that switched ignition source to power a relay coil that switches battery power for those higher current demand loads.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 03:07 - 23 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still not got round to doing it.

I remember seeing advertised on some heated grips "smart voltage technology" or something that means they can be connected directly to the battery but when the voltage drops below say 12 volts (when the engine is off) they turn off to avoid draining the battery.

Is there some sort of accessory power unit out there that provides a similar function for other accessories?

I've looked but can't find one.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 09:36 - 23 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Judging by the fact the wiring diagram for the heated grips socket has 3 wires it's the same as mine. 1 permanant live, one switched and an earth so you can just chuck in a relay on the permanant live thats triggered by the switched live.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:58 - 23 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

DUCAUDI wrote:
Still not got round to doing it.

I remember seeing advertised on some heated grips "smart voltage technology" or something that means they can be connected directly to the battery but when the voltage drops below say 12 volts (when the engine is off) they turn off to avoid draining the battery.

Is there some sort of accessory power unit out there that provides a similar function for other accessories?

I've looked but can't find one.


These things are really for charging leisure batteries and only switch when teh voltage is greater than 'X'. X should be variable via a potentiometer. However..

https://towsure.com/products/self-switching-smart-split-charge-relay-for-towbar-electrics
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 23 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the input guys.

I ordered one of these in the end:

https://healtech.co.uk/shop/thunderbox-tb-power-distribution-module/

Yes it's more expensive than tapping into an ignition switched wire somewhere on the bike, but it's far less and faff and represents an investment as it can very quickly and easily be removed and put on the next bike when that time comes.

I appreciate the time taken to lend your advice!
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 23 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Talk about throwing money at a problem that doesn't actually exist...
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 23 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

On this bike, yeah maybe, got to be honest I never looked for the heated grips connector as you suggested, could have been equally faffless.

And the rear brake switch that stinkwheel suggested, while I'm sure is dead easy and straightforward, just sounded like running an extra unwanted cable from the back of the bike..

Either way adding relays etc. does just add a bit of extra unwanted junk and wiring and mess.

Like I said this can be transferred to other bikes so for £65, I'm ok with that for the simplicity and gives and not having to tamper or cut into existing electrics.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 24 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

DUCAUDI wrote:
Either way adding relays etc. does just add a bit of extra unwanted junk and wiring and mess.

Respectfully, no more mess than you are about to create with your Thunderbox. One relay and a terminal strip does not, to me, constitute "unwanted junk". At least if the relay goes bad it can be easily diagnosed and inexpensively replaced. A common terminal strip will ensure clean electrical connections to your phone charger and other accessories you wish to add. The connectors on the Thunderbox look suspiciously like scotch locks to me. Dependence on a "black box" to recognize system voltage and turn off accessories when the bike is turned off requires faith in the black box sales advert. I hope it will work flawlessly for you, but personally, I trust the simple circuit that I know works well.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 21:54 - 24 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair point.

There is a scotch lock provided with the Thunderbox but that's intended for the optional white wire that you can connect, if you choose, to an ignition switched live so it acts like a relay instead of going off the voltage.

I won't be using any scotch locks or crimp connectors. They are ok on the inside of cars but not on a bike in my opinion, I find they corrode quite quickly. Everything will be soldered and heatshrunk.
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 22:40 - 24 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

DUCAUDI wrote:
....I won't be using any scotch locks or crimp connectors. They are ok on the inside of cars but not on a bike in my opinion, I find they corrode quite quickly. Everything will be soldered and heatshrunk.

Scotch locks do not even work reliably on the inside of cars. True story: My wife called me from the local park, where she was stranded in a Ford Aerostar that would not go into gear. I found that the power wire for the aftermarket cruise control was scotch locked into the brake switch circuit. The scotch lock broke the wire and the transmission could not sense brake application so it would not engage drive. I twisted the wires together and wrapped in electrical tape. We drove that Aerostar another 14 years with the circuit repaired like that.

At Detroit Diesel, we were taught not to solder wires for accessory circuits, because vibration would cold-work the wire right at the solder-copper interface, and subsequently break apart. Crimp connections are preferred over solder, in that instance.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 24 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I take that back about the scotch locks, I never use them, even on the inside of a car. Used to, but learned the hard way. Will use crimp connectors on the inside of cars. At the end of the day even crimp connectors have to be used externally on battery rings so they've got to be used sometimes, I just prefer to always solder where possible.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 10:12 - 25 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeff wrote:
My wife called me from the local park, where she was stranded in a Ford Aerostar


https://www.iihs.org/cdn-cgi/image/width=636/api/ratings/model-year-images/1588/

Sweet Jesus! You cruel b@stard.
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TravisBickle
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 25 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reminds me of a Mitsubishi Space Wagon I had many moons ago (which I bought off my best mate's dad):

https://live.staticflickr.com/3898/14453312165_dc6c1270a5_b.jpg
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jeffyjeff
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PostPosted: 01:15 - 26 Feb 2024    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
Sweet Jesus! You cruel b@stard.

That be the one (sans roof rack), 1997 model, to be precise. Wife wanted a van, she got a van. Caravan/Voyager not even considered due to numerous documented transmission failures. Chose the Aerostar over a Chevrolet Astro, just because. Drove it 216,000 miles/345,000 km before retiring it to the boneyard. Great vehicle.
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