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Scooby Slapper
Joined: 14 Jun 2024
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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 Posted: 18:50 - 14 Jun 2024  Post subject: |
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Best model of the best bike honda made.
If I might suggest a brake upgrade? I put pretec 6-pots on mine and it's like hitting an unlit skip now.
I personally run mine with the forks dropped through the yokes 1/2" to 1" which sharpens up the cornering well. Also linear springs in the forks.
The double-double roller bearing in the stub axle is a nippy one eh? It was £200 when I swapped mine out 10 years ago, dread to think what they are now.
How's the clutch for rattling? I have two RC36s, a 91 and a 97 and they both have clutches that sound like maraccas.
I checked the tappets on mine at 45k miles and they didn't need doing. I swapped out 2 shims to bring a couple of the valves back closer to tolerance since I was in there anyway.
If all the clocks and dash lights are currently working, it might be a good idea to get some electronics appropriate corrosion inhibitor onto the flexi PCB in the back of the clocks. They all fail eventually due to corrosion on the tracks.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Easy-X
Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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Scooby Slapper
Joined: 14 Jun 2024
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Posted: 09:13 - 15 Jun 2024  Post subject: |
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| Easy-X wrote: | | stinkwheel wrote: | ...and it's like hitting an unlit skip now. |
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Unfortunately, I have reached that "sensible" age, unlike in my younger days of absolutely caning my old CB900F everywhere. Never expected to reach 30, never mind 60.
These days I ride gently and keep to the speed limits in general so have no need of better brakes. I rarely need to use them, but they did get a complete strip and overhaul using genuine pads.
Yep the needle roller in the hub was a bitch to source. At 31,000 miles, it was still good, but the shaft had corrosion problems and impact damage on the thread.
Ended up buying a complete swingarm assembly from a sub 10,000 miler that was being broken and giving that a good going through. Reused the needle bearing but replaced the ball bearing, all the seals and the pivot bearings.
Clutch. Nope cannot say it has a rattle. Balancing the carbs to get a smooth idle is a bitch though.
Yep corrosion of the instrument PCB is a thing, I just gave it a good spray with GT85 before refitting the bodywork.
I had a brand new, green VFR750 in 97 and loved it. Its only drawback was it was just a bit too small and cramped for touring with the missus and luggage.
I traded it in for a new Blackbird thinking it would be like a bigger VFR.
It wasn't and I knew I had made a grave mistake within 20 miles. Blackbird was a lovely bike, it was just not a VFR.
Always vowed I would get another one day and restore it back to the condition my green one was in. Waited years for one to come along with original paint and undamaged plastic at a sensible price.
Lots of pristine ones with 5000 miles on the clock and eye watering price tags, then mine came along with 29,000 miles and never dropped.
Miles meant sensible price but of no consequence to the engine and the chassis getting a complete overhaul. Only the bare engine remained in the frame.
A couple of milestones in any restoration. When the electrical system comes alive and when the bike becomes a rolling chassis again.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50778681068_afa0651aba_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50780191776_78a1eb6716_h.jpg
____________________
Wading through the thick tapestry of life one day at a time. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 1 year, 80 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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