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| LatencyXR |
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 LatencyXR Derestricted Danger
Joined: 28 Jun 2024 Karma :   
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 21:17 - 28 Jun 2024 Post subject: |
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Modern michelin tyres with a silicone compound? Zero time to "break in", they are ready to go.
Are they the right size? What bike?
A lower profile on the front and/or higher profile on the rear that it's supposed to have can tighten the rake angle which makes turn-in faster but stability worse (kind of the same thing really). The other way round (ie a profile that raises the front/lowers the rear) tends to stabilise the bike when upright but they eventually flop over into corners and take a lot of countersteer to get back up again. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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 LatencyXR Derestricted Danger
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 22:30 - 28 Jun 2024 Post subject: |
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Did it handle properly before the tyre change? What size wheels do you have?
Modded how? Does it have the original front and rear ride height, forks and shock? Wheel sizes? Frame altered? I know a lot of people who make those brat chopper type things slam the forks through the yoke. A 1/2" difference in front or rear ride height can radically alter the handling of the bike.
Although in fairness, what you described sounds like a bike with too much rake angle for its frame geometry (think old-school chops, they have really extreme rake angles but they also have chopped frames to make them handle with it, it's not just that they fitted longer forks). This would usually be caused by lowering the back end or raising the front end. If you start fiddling with ride height at one end, unless you did it for a specific reason, you either need to compensate with the other end or start altering frame geometry or handling will potentially suffer.
So likes of my trials bike, I fitted 2" over standard shocks to it, but I also went from a 19 to 21" front wheel. This still effectively dropped the front end by about 1". If I was riding it like a road bike, that would be a total liability, it would probably crash if leaned over too far, front end would tuck. But it's meant to be very manouverable at low speeds and it's all about keeping the bike as upright as possible so a very tight rake angle is actually useful in this setup.
TL;DR if you're going to modify a bike in such a way as it alters frame geometry or ride height, you need to know what effect that will have on the handling and either take steps to compensate for it or accept those changes and ride accordingly. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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 LatencyXR Derestricted Danger
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| stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 09:41 - 29 Jun 2024 Post subject: |
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Being a 125, it's probably not all that adjustable in terms of suspension but there are things you can check and do.
First is tyre pressures, make sure those are correct.
Check your wheel alignment is correct, if they aren't both pointing in the same direction, it doesn't help.
You can probably only adjust preload on the suspension. Have a read about measuring static sag. Set your preload so the static sag is as near to ideal as you can get it. Ignore rider sag unless you're going to get into altering spring rates and such. Most rear shocks are preload adjustable. On most 125s, you can only really adjust front preload by altering the size of the spacer on top of the spring by either fitting a different spacer or stacking repair washers on top of the spring. I'd probably only go to the effort of doing that if the sag is way out.
You could also carefully experiment with altering front ride height. Depending on the bike, you may be able to let the forks through the yokes slightly so they're sticking up through the top yoke. I'd do it in very small increments, maybe 1/4 to 1/2" at a time and go for a careful test ride after to see if it's any better. Remember it could potentially be worse so creep up on it.
Rear ride height is trickier to alter. On monoshock bikes, it usually involves fitting different dog-bone spacers, on twinshocks it would be fitting different shocks. I'd probably only bother if you are 100% convinced it's too low at the front and there's no fork left to raise up. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| doggone |
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 doggone World Chat Champion

Joined: 20 May 2004 Karma :    
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 1 year, 147 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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