Amal monoblock choke question

[lingeringstin...]

I'm building a 375 monobloc without a choke because it already has a perfectly reasonable tickler built into it that works just fine and anyway I get along with a tickler on a carb. The problem is the choke is a fecking oddball shaped piece of monkey metal that slips down THROUGH the top of the carb slide (look them up, it's a daft idea) so if you don't have a choke you end up with a whacking great hole in the slide that you probably need to clog up with something.

My question is, how does one go about clogging up an Amal monoblock choke hole or is there such a thing as a ready made Amal monoblock choke hole stopper-upper (like made of rubber or something) or am I going to have to cobble something up out of old shoe leather, magic charms and cat gut?

OR...

Is there such a thing as a 375 carb slide WITHOUT the choke hole?

[stinkwheel]

Pretty sure you just remove the choke assembly and blank off the hole in the cap. They actually list a "Blanking plug, when no choke fitted" on the amal parts list (part# 4/137A) I don't think the hole up the middle does anything functional It's not like the choke is a tight fit in there anyway so if air was going to leak, it would with the choke there too.

As far as I know, it's just the front and rear edges of the slide that do anything functional, the rest of it's just there to hold those where they need to be and support the needle. The throttle slide I have on my minsk is literally just a folded piece of brass sheet.

Or just fit it with a really short piece of cable and adjust it up tight?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[lingeringstin...]

That's kind of what I figured but for some reason when I tried the carb a couple of days ago the bike wouldn't run unless I held my hand over the carb to restrict the air flow. It started just fine from cold using the tickler but it would not run unless I physically restricted the intake.

I've blocked off the choke cable hole in the top.

Of course this is all rather experimental at the moment so there's a lot that could be going wrong. I had to adapt the carb to a manifold it was never meant to fit onto and the carb is a two stroke version anyway (for like an Ariel Leader or something) but as far as I can tell that's only a difference in the spray tube so it SHOULD work at least a little bit until I get the jetting and needle position fettled in.

Since there's no reference for this carb being on this engine I built it to the specs of an old British twin of somewhere around 20-ish hp thinking that was near as dammit. Currently with a 105 jet tube, a 25 idle jet, a 3 1/2 slide and I started with a 100 main jet (not a chance) and then fitted a 150 main that worked slightly better but still not good. Can't detect any air leaks so I don't know what's up. Maybe I just need a bigger main jet?

I can't remember what jet I used on my MZ250 when I had a Concentric on it but I seem to think it was a 240 or something, but of course that was for a two stroke single piston.