Clutch Basket

[flyingcbf]

Morning Folks,
I maybe looking to replace the clutch basket in my suzuki V-Strom 250. Not really fond of the OEM aluminium ones. Has anyone got their's replaced?
Looking to spend little extra on getting one made from Steel.
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2019 Suzuki V-Strom 250
2020 Cb125F @ 5k miles and going up!

[to v or not to v]

is something wrong with your currant one?
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current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
its old and fat, but its a damned good ride. the bikes not bad either.

[redeem ouzzer]

Stop talking crap. The majority of bikes have aluminium inner and outer baskets, especially ones with a lot more power than a V-Strom 250. There is no market for steel baskets, if there was they would exist.
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Be a REAL MAN!

[Ste]

[stinkwheel]

Sounds like an expensive way of fixing a non-problem as well as significantly increasing the rotating mass in your transmission and as a result, strain on your primary drive and transmission componants.

If you're badly notching the basket on a 250, you are almost certainly being ham-fisted with your gearshifts. Bought my VFR with 16k miles on it and the clutch basket was horribly notched. I dressed it up with a file, put another 40k miles on and there's barely any notching. Not sure what the previous owner was up to with it because I hardly take it easy and do clutchless shift a lot. I suspect their rev-matching left a lot to be desired.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[flyingcbf]

[flyingcbf]

[flyingcbf]

[stinkwheel]

[flyingcbf]

[stinkwheel]

Baskets notch for two reasons. One is the friction plate tabs impacting the fingers of the basket. This tends to happen more if the power is applied and released abruptly or if the clutch basket and centre are doing very different speeds as the clutch is let out. The other is wear of the tabs against the fingers as the clutch is let in and out with the clutch under load.

You can minimise both by trying to ensure the clutch hub and basket are doing a similar speed as the gear is selected or the clutch is let out. One is rev-matching, like double-declutching a car or dipping the revs appropriately for a clutchless shift. The other is slipping the clutch through the change so the basket (which is attached to the engine) doesn't abruptly accelerate or decelerate relative to the clutch hub (which is attached to the transmission).

At the end of a gearshift, the clutch basket rev speed (a function of engine rev speed) HAS to match the gearbox mainshaft rotation speed. The more difference there is between the two, the more load you put on the clutch basket fingers. The more the clutch slips as it's let out, the more gradually the difference between the two speeds is taken up.

Basically the smoother the gearshift feels, the less load on the basket. If you manage to slip it through the gears almost like it was an automatic so you get a steady, smooth acceleration, you're doing well. If you've ever ridden with a pillion and find you have to modify the gearshifting to stop them repeatedly banging helmets with you when you change gear, that's what you're looking for. If I was putting it into words I'd say I preload the lever slightly then dip the revs and half pull the clutch so it slips into the next gear almost by itself, then gradually let out as I increase revs.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[RhynoCZ]