Brake disk bolts - threadlock?

[A100man]

Replacing the SS M6 allen cap bolts with high-tensile zinc. Do people use threadlock or dry or else?

Cheers
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[WD Forte]

The last ones I changed had threadlock from new so I so its what
Yamaha do and its what I do.
Mulling it over, I reckon its better to have to nip them up if they come loose rather than have them run out and foul on the caliper/fork or get lost.
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bikers smell of wee

[stinkwheel]

Last OEM ones I had (for my VFR750) had blue threadlock on when they came.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[A100man]

Thanks chaps I bought some 'medium strength' threadlock so on it goes!
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[sickpup]

Yes and no.
As said most come with it, can be either red or blue but many replaced discs warp because people use too much threadlock on them.

The wheel acts as a heatsink for the brake discs and threadlock can be an insulator.

[WD Forte]

Not sure how much heat would be transmitted through the bolts
whether threadlock is used or not due to the relatively small surface area.

An alloy hub will act as a heatsink of course, but its effectiveness will depend on
the size of the contact area and good thermal contact.
Galvanic corrosion (dissimilar metals) between the disc and hub will reduce transfer and allow more heat to build up so a thin layer of thermal grease could help by allowing heat transfer and act a barrier to reduce galvanic corrosion.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Easy-X]

[WD Forte]

CPUs aren't bolted down with much pressure so any squeeze out is minimal compared to a brake disc but I'm talking thin film.
Not that i've done that as I recall but I have removed discs to find a
layer of corrosion between them and the alloy hub so it did
make me wonder about some neutralising/non reactive barrier
Stainless and ally are quite dissimilar metals so if you have this combination, its more prone to the old volcanic corruption.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[jeffyjeff]

Aren't you guys overthinking this a bit? I'm thinking about a full floating brake disc. How much heat sinks through the bobbins that interface the hub to the disc. I'd wager the relatively loose fit of the bobbins will act as a barrier to isolate heat in the disc. The holes/slots/petal design of the disc will aid heat migration way more than the bobbins. The disc is air-cooled.
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History shows again and again how nature points out the folly of men - BOC

[WD Forte]

Jeffy jeffy jeffy!
This is BCF mate, we'll dicker over a post until the cows come home
and the original issue is long forgotten/ignored until
five pages in we're all shit posting about random unrelated stuff.

Go with the flow man!
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[jeffyjeff]

[stinkwheel]

Although proper disc bolts are usually cad ium plated high tensile steel. If they are stainless or if you lubricate them, what torque do you do them up to? Because I certainly have no idea.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Bloggsy]

2007 Yamaha m-t 03 I have to waggle my ignition key to switch the bike on I suspect the ignition switch is worn and needs replacing The Haynes Manual tells me that if the ignition is changed the immobiliser and the ecu also have to be changed, does anybody have any knowledge of this
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If It Aint broke Don't Fix It

[to v or not to v]

[Bloggsy]

Yes have used silicon spray squirted brake cleaner in and other lubricants
____________________
If It Aint broke Don't Fix It

[jeffyjeff]

[stinkwheel]

[WD Forte]

Squirting jollop down the barrel is feckin useless unless the pins are sticky
The electrical switch part is usually seperate and besides it might possibly
benefit from switch cleaner not lubrication cos these things can act as insulators
on the contact pads and make things worse.
It sound like a wear/mechanical fault rather than an electrical one.

You dont say but the bike must use transponder/coded keys whic are matched with
an ECU or control box.

Fowlers list the main switch ommobiliser kit for £1190
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5952714/mt07-abs/electrical-2

As there were no M07's in 2007, I looked up the 2017 and work arounds for that
problem look quite feasible.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[A100man]

I recommend threadlock down the key slot, that and a separate thread.
____________________
Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600

[WD Forte]