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cresad |
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 cresad Nova Slayer
Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Karma :     
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Easy-X |
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 Easy-X Super Spammer

Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :   
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 Posted: 19:34 - 12 Apr 2025 Post subject: |
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So battery > fuse > relay > lights with some light duty switch taking ignition-on power to trigger the relay? A pair of 55W light should need a 20A fuse at most. If you're blowing up 30s then you've done something wrong  ____________________ Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 07:27 - 13 Apr 2025 Post subject: |
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Well, either the lights are drawing way more current that they say they are (and I'd be surprised if LED spots were drawing as much as 55W, that's more likely the equivalent brightness as if they had incandescant bulbs) or you have a short circuit somewhere upstream of either the switch or the relay output.
I'd double check you have the relay wired correctly. My next obvious thing would be checking for a short to earth, possibly from the switch or LED housing.
A quick test, set your multimeter to measure resistance. Disconnect the earth from your new lights and measure resistance between terminal 87 on the relay and the battery negative and terminal 86 and the battery negative. They ought to be an open circuit with everything off. If they aren't, you have a short.
Another tip is if you're fault-finding, connect a bulb holder and bulb in where the 30A fuse goes. Then the bulb will light instead of popping a fuse every time.
I'm assuming this 30A fuse is a stand-alone one in series with the relay and not the bikes own main fuse? As in you wired the supply to the relay straight from the battery via its own fuse? If you're using the bikes 30A fuse and have connected the relay to an always-on live elsewhere on the bike, it's possible your new lights in addition to the bikes own electrics have pushed the overall load over 30A ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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WD Forte |
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 WD Forte World Chat Champion

Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :   
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cresad |
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 cresad Nova Slayer
Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Karma :     
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A100man |
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 A100man World Chat Champion

Joined: 19 Aug 2013 Karma :   
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 Posted: 16:16 - 14 Apr 2025 Post subject: |
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cresad wrote: | Second shows how it's wired.
Can anyone see where I'm going wrong ?
Thanks , Adam |
The wiring looks all to cock. The relay should get a separate 12v from the switch. The -neg and the chassis ground are the same/common. ____________________ Now: A100, GT250A, XJ598, FZ750
Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600 |
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stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 17:15 - 14 Apr 2025 Post subject: |
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On your relay:
Terminal 30 is the fused live from the battery.
Terminal 85 is an earth/battery negative.
Terminal 87 is the output to the spot lights.
Terminal 86 is your switched live which triggers the lights.
It looks like you're doing something odd with your switch. What sort of switch is it? ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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cresad |
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 cresad Nova Slayer
Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Karma :     
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 Posted: 19:18 - 14 Apr 2025 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 19:41 - 14 Apr 2025 Post subject: |
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The switch isn't earthed though, or it earths directly to the bars? It would need an earth connection for the tell-tale light to come on.
If it was me, I'd chase the circuits through with a miltimeter to see where your short is. If I didn't have a meter handy, I'd disconnect the lights (so pull terminal 30 off the relay) and disconnect the switch terminals. Then I'd touch the switches sidelight terminal to the relay terminal. It should click. If it doesn't or the fuse pops again, you have the relay wired up wrong.
If it did click, I'd reconnect terminal 30 and try the same again, the lights should come on. If the fuse pops, there's a short on your lighting wiring.
Then I'd reconnect those two terminals to the switch (not the tell-tale one, leave it disconnected) and try with the switch. Again, if the fuse pops, the switch isn't wired or working correctly.
If that's all ok, it must be your tell-tale light wiring. Which frankly, seems odd. From what you've told us, the switch doesn't have an earth, unless it's earthing directly to the bars. I can't see why it would need an external power lead to tell you if the switch is on, that could be wired internally. My guess, since you've not given us any info on the switch, is that wire is actually an earth and you've got it connected to a live. The switch could also be earthed directly to the bars where it attaches which would make that connection a short circuit. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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cresad |
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 cresad Nova Slayer
Joined: 02 Jun 2014 Karma :     
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to v or not to v |
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 to v or not to v World Chat Champion

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