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Aditional lighting problem

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cresad
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PostPosted: 19:09 - 12 Apr 2025    Post subject: Aditional lighting problem Reply with quote

Hi

On my suzuki 600s bandit with the headlight US I've fitted a pair of Led light's , but still the amount of light is very low. I've just tried to fit a pair of 55w spots using the same general layout but using heavier thickness wiring. It uses the switch that came with the Led's and a 40A 4 pin relay but it keeps blowing fuses ( 30a). Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong ?
I've wired spot lights on cars like this before without any problems but have no idea why this isn't working. Can anyone help please ?


Thanks , Adam
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 19:34 - 12 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

So battery > fuse > relay > lights with some light duty switch taking ignition-on power to trigger the relay? A pair of 55W light should need a 20A fuse at most. If you're blowing up 30s then you've done something wrong Smile
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 07:27 - 13 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, either the lights are drawing way more current that they say they are (and I'd be surprised if LED spots were drawing as much as 55W, that's more likely the equivalent brightness as if they had incandescant bulbs) or you have a short circuit somewhere upstream of either the switch or the relay output.

I'd double check you have the relay wired correctly. My next obvious thing would be checking for a short to earth, possibly from the switch or LED housing.

A quick test, set your multimeter to measure resistance. Disconnect the earth from your new lights and measure resistance between terminal 87 on the relay and the battery negative and terminal 86 and the battery negative. They ought to be an open circuit with everything off. If they aren't, you have a short.

Another tip is if you're fault-finding, connect a bulb holder and bulb in where the 30A fuse goes. Then the bulb will light instead of popping a fuse every time.

I'm assuming this 30A fuse is a stand-alone one in series with the relay and not the bikes own main fuse? As in you wired the supply to the relay straight from the battery via its own fuse? If you're using the bikes 30A fuse and have connected the relay to an always-on live elsewhere on the bike, it's possible your new lights in addition to the bikes own electrics have pushed the overall load over 30A
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:02 - 13 Apr 2025    Post subject: Re: Aditional lighting problem Reply with quote

cresad wrote:
Hi

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong ?


Thanks , Adam


No cos we dont know what you're doing exactly.
no pics, no diagrams of intent etc so others have to make guesses and assumptions and speak in general terms.
If you're blowing 30A fuses then you're really fucking up big time
and it 'sounds like' a dead short to ground after the fuse

Even 2x55W standard blubs only need less then 10A @12V
2x55W led equivalents will need less

My advice
put it back to normal
study stock diagram
plan the work,
make diagram of mods
show us
work the plan, when its been checked over.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 14:22 - 14 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I didn't right that very well , I'll try and make it abit clearer

I've got a pair of Led lights on the front of my bike. I want to replace them with 55w spot lights. I've upgraded the wiring with thicker wires. The wires from the spot lights are just replacing the wires from the Led's. Every time I turn them on they blow a 30A fuse. I tested the spot light's on there own and they both work. They've got 55w halogen bulbs in them.

See Pics.

First one shows bike with both set's of light. Second shows how it's wired.

Can anyone see where I'm going wrong ?

Thanks , Adam
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A100man
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 14 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

cresad wrote:
Second shows how it's wired.

Can anyone see where I'm going wrong ?

Thanks , Adam


The wiring looks all to cock. The relay should get a separate 12v from the switch. The -neg and the chassis ground are the same/common.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 14 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

On your relay:

Terminal 30 is the fused live from the battery.

Terminal 85 is an earth/battery negative.

Terminal 87 is the output to the spot lights.

Terminal 86 is your switched live which triggers the lights.

It looks like you're doing something odd with your switch. What sort of switch is it?
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 14 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

The switch is the one that came with the Led's . You've got live in - from side lights , live out - to relay , and bulb - show's that switch is on.

This is the type of switch - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401545898708?_skw=Led+Dot+Light+12V+Car+Auto+Boat+Round+Rocker+ON%2FOFF+Toggle+Switch&itmmeta=01JRTXHEYN2CN7CY5V1T2S378A&hash=item5d7e002ad4:g:sa8AAOSwQz1bEOmZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1dLqICm7t2TR4IxbGYBZdNDGeqfU76DxwFv8vwvSSgqDmJWz5uNwX1jDGFlS7hVdKfdvsMQC6H2Cz2CT%2Fw9YNAv5W2Op2J2wysSr8b53Vxm8DdEhamnFfS7j5OUel9a0Xpp1BydhznfbazXiZYuoljc%2F9TOzlf8tnQfqSpVmDvGEYppwCqJz%2F7BXSOACtNz4qWVNeeCPAnEiIsyLspKfwjDP%2B8PWGC%2BPj%2BU6mai8AbWN9%2FdL82tQRzH5Crr2l8A9hvOTsTdOFDKAI73bukoJJAXNFYyWSzBkR7aoqdtRPdMyjanhEecHEwvQCMo49s%2B%2BvY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8Dvxd3GZQ


Last edited by cresad on 19:49 - 14 Apr 2025; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 14 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

The switch isn't earthed though, or it earths directly to the bars? It would need an earth connection for the tell-tale light to come on.

If it was me, I'd chase the circuits through with a miltimeter to see where your short is. If I didn't have a meter handy, I'd disconnect the lights (so pull terminal 30 off the relay) and disconnect the switch terminals. Then I'd touch the switches sidelight terminal to the relay terminal. It should click. If it doesn't or the fuse pops again, you have the relay wired up wrong.

If it did click, I'd reconnect terminal 30 and try the same again, the lights should come on. If the fuse pops, there's a short on your lighting wiring.

Then I'd reconnect those two terminals to the switch (not the tell-tale one, leave it disconnected) and try with the switch. Again, if the fuse pops, the switch isn't wired or working correctly.

If that's all ok, it must be your tell-tale light wiring. Which frankly, seems odd. From what you've told us, the switch doesn't have an earth, unless it's earthing directly to the bars. I can't see why it would need an external power lead to tell you if the switch is on, that could be wired internally. My guess, since you've not given us any info on the switch, is that wire is actually an earth and you've got it connected to a live. The switch could also be earthed directly to the bars where it attaches which would make that connection a short circuit.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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cresad
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PostPosted: 19:12 - 17 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick update

Turned out the wires for one of the spotlights had got the wrong colour's attached , sorted now

Switch is working fine

Thanks , Adam
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to v or not to v
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PostPosted: 20:09 - 17 Apr 2025    Post subject: Reply with quote

well done. now get out and enjoy this fine weather before it disappears.
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