GT535: what if we replace the engine with a pneumatic drill?

[Easy-X]

Doesn't this look nice!

https://i.imgur.com/eWkrABY.jpeg

But really it's "looks good at a distance... after 8 pints... in a darkened room at 20 yards" Bearing in mind I've just done a full service and MoT on the Husky, I have the key areas to look for fresh in memory. So, time for an audit

Not pictured, the brake pads have ~3mm of meat left on them so I'll be sticking in Mr. Stinkwheel's recommendations before the next MoT. I also jammed a strategic cable tie in various places as a pointing stick to check run-out on the rims and rotors and they all look sound. Tyre tread is good, rubber is ~18 months old according to the included paperwork. On the subject of wheels, the front:

https://i.imgur.com/rX65fyN.jpeghttps://i.imgur.com/3bKuCoY.jpeg

I spotted these... disagreements with security devices (according the previous owner) and used them as a cudgel to beat the price down. I shall probably buy some spokes and replace them but the rest all seemed tensioned correctly. The back wheel? Most of the spokes are loose I'll be hunting through my tools to find the spoke spanners before I next go out on the bike.

AFAIK the front mudguard is meant to be 50/50 but my one's been cut down, not a fantastic job:

https://i.imgur.com/BMOxZJ7.jpeg

Replacements are easy to get hold of though. While we're in the area, nothing hiding under those shock boots, no leaking oil on the rears either.

Some rusty bits:

https://i.imgur.com/k1SrDdA.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/llnCUbT.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/XK03yWC.jpeg

Nothing too dramatic but the horn directly behind the exhaust pipe hasn't done well in the heat:

https://i.imgur.com/EH13y95.jpeg

And the exhaust studs are begging for replacement along with some brass nuts. The exhaust is also bolted to the frame half way along and at the back by the pillion peg. I'm wondering if these back two mounting points should involve some rubber? BTW the latter half of the exhaust is apparently a Motad, according to the receipts.

Under the covers we have:

https://i.imgur.com/YscYNNC.jpeg

and

https://i.imgur.com/UhUz37V.jpeg

That's a DNA filter and Venturi cover, fancy! Along with what is purported to be a more free-flowing exhaust I wondering if the ECU can cope. It is only Euro 3 so maybe it doesn't care as much. There's certainly no FuelX or PowerCommander doing any compensations

Lastly there's the mirrors and levers:

https://i.imgur.com/AUbhvyJ.jpeg

Billet aluminium doesn't suit the character of this bike. I'll probably just get some OEM levers and rifle through the shed for better mirrors.

Overall, nothing shocking. Apart from the paperwork.

At the back I have a picture "speedo replaced." Oh really And In my haste I read it as 9742 miles in 2016 that the initial MoT would know nothing about.

https://i.makeagif.com/media/9-06-2023/WhvOD5.gif

And then I noticed the decimal point So yes, scammed but for 974.2 miles

Gone are my plans to make a political statement with a carb conversion. I'll be getting the wheel spokes looked at first.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[virus]

looks tidy, Id consider replacing the tyres at the same time as looking at the spokes mind, those avons are shocking compared to more modern rubber, even if its not a 200hp track bike.
____________________
own: 81 xs1100g...
owned: 85 rat CG (sold), 91 GS500e (stolen), 84 gsx400f (scrapped), 81 z250 (siezed, siezed, scrapped), 83 cb250rs (sold), 84 gpz750r ratfighter (killed) 84gpz400 (sold), '80 cb650 ratfighter (wrote off) 95gsx6/12f ratfighter (killed) 91 xj900 (sold)
stinkwheel Well I just had my hands up a pigs fanny. Which makes your concerns pale into insignificance.

[stinkwheel]

I can't keep a horn working on an enfield for more than about 6 months. Be they cheap or premium brands. Can't take the vibes.

I presume you've found Hitchcocks motorcycles site? Among other things, they have complete parts diagrams so you can check how things are supposed to be.

I'd guess the exhaust is probably ridgidly fixed to the frame. Mine attaches to the frame in three places.

https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook/302/2016-535cc-continental-gt
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

Oh yeah, I've already rubbed one out flicking through their catalogue

I'm wondering whether the strategic use of these sort of things is a good idea:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Mf8AAOSwZW1mFclP/s-l400.jpg

Thinking of my Husky, the front half of the system is rigid but the back half is held together with springs. If the overall system is too bouncy I'm guessing it'd introduce stress at the engine end It was something I saw mentioned on an old RE forum though.

The purists on Facebook reckon it's sacrilege to even talk about toning down the engine vibrations but I at least want to track down a strange buzzing somewhere in the front end that appears at particular speeds. Might be as simple as an electrical connector rattling around in the headlamp cask.

With regards to the Avons, are they really that bad? Seems a shame to bin tyres barely used. The old fella just got a set for his KZ1000 and he seems quite happy with them and he goes at brown trousers speeds* on it.

*Note to self: check if his will is up to date.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

I have no issues with roadrider tyres, they are pretty much the only modern-ish road tyre I can fit to my bullet which has 19" wheels. Run out of ground clearance before I run out of grip.

Try disconnecting the speedo cable and see if the buzzing goes away.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

[blurredman]

I think the Avon Roadrider 2 tyres are fine. I like them. I think they're decent and the front lasts pretty long on my Honda CX (over 20k miles!), so unless you do the mileage then they'll get relatively old before they wear down I suppose.

Not sure if that's a concern for you? So- great if I was doing courier work still, but I'm not so i'd prefer to wear down tyres at 7-10k miles as opposed to being tempted to run old tyres (and I am, and often tempted, I have one from 1997 on my car, and another from 2000 on the other car. And yeah- a 1995 Cheng Shin on the front of my Suzuki.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.

[Easy-X]

Probably drank 2 litres of water but I got the rear wheel spokes reasonably tensioned this afternoon

I used a chalk marker on all the loose ones and it wasn't as bad as I thought: all the outer spokes were fine, it was just a handful of the inner ones you could rattle. I'll ride out a few times, let 'em settle in, and check again.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

What's this? Throttle body, fuel injection... <yawn> boring!

https://i.imgur.com/5Uid96I.jpeg

You know what they say: if there's a hard way why do it the easy way?

https://i.imgur.com/dFpa0K4.jpeg

Fixed! Much better.

But wait! Why would anyone fit a carb to an EFI bike?!

https://media.tenor.com/UVp4zkd1BPcAAAAM/kahn-star-trek.gif

It's a 2015 Euro 3 bike so can go into the ULEZ 80% perverse idiocy and 20% because these bikes can be leaned out at the factory to get past emissions as it is and the previous owner fitted a DNA-style air filter and free-flowing exhaust to make things worse. Throwing more petrol into an air-cooled engine is worth doing just for the cooling effect. Moar powa baby is incidental.

Along the way I discovered it wasn't worth lubing the throttle cables:

https://i.imgur.com/zta7HfI.jpeg

The throttle body's mounting plate was crumbing, probably fatigue:

https://i.imgur.com/YSgLNn3.jpeg

And the tank drain was both blocked and missing a drainage pipe.

The Amal carb is interesting. It looks very Old Skool on the outside but has an elaborate slide/choke combo thing. I've seen the diagrams a hundred times but it's not until you take one apart to realise the elegance. And it has a "tickler" - what's not to like

So now the bike is sans fuel pump, throttle body and injector. How does it run? I only had time tonight to start it but start it did on the first attempt Keeping it going might be a little trickier but then I haven't even started on fiddling with the air screw and throttle slide adjust. I'll tackle that tomorrow hopefully.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

The chokes are ok on those because they are an actual choke but they do have a tendancy to rattle themselves into the on position if the bolt on the lever works loose.

I actually found I never used it except in outrageously cold (well sub-zero) weather, a brief tickle and it fired up so I just tightened the choke lever down hard so you could barely move it and never used it.

I've never got on particularly well with amals but one thing they're quite bad for is the needle valve sticking closed if they are parked up full for a long time. I got into the habit of turning the fuel off as I turned into my road so the needle valve was sitting off its seat when the bike was parked.

Also the slow runing circuit is an utter bastard to get at and clean and most of them have a press-fit slow running jet so make sure you have an effective fuel filter.

With a carb fitted, it would fly through emissions tests anyway. Nitrogen oxides form in a hot, oxidising environment and if you've set your carb up in the usual way to be running slightly richer than strictly necessary, that's not what you have. 2-strokes produce almost zero NOx.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

I was wondering whether I could use the "choke control" on the handlebars (actually just a fast idle) but having dismantled said control structure I can see it only has a very weak friction system to hold onto things. As you say, the thing really needs to be held open semi-permanently.

I've read some ppl take the choke slide out entirely. I'm 5 mins into this so I'm still investigating how the carb works. A more convenient control would be nice but handlebar real estate is at a premium on this bike.

Talking of convenience, I've ordered some more petrol tap copper/rubber washers. As they're the crush type you're meant to have more scope to clock the tap to a good position. There are no good positions At the moment the tap location counts as a security feature and I can't turn to reserve as there's a engine mount bolt in the way.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Only a small amount of time on the bike today but I've at least got the air and idle screws set. I did a lap of the town to warm up the engine a bit before final adjustments.

I deliberately attempted to start the bike with no choke and no tickling just to see what it does. Probably with the right jiggling of the throttle it'd go but it certainly wasn't happy. Good. That'll fuck with the minds of the scrotes I gave it a little tickle and dropped the choke - started straight up. After that it seems to like pulling the choke almost immediately. Might need longer in winter.

I haven't filled the tank back up as I'm waiting on a longer bolt from Hitchcock's for one of the engine mounting plates. They were a bit "oh really?" but sent out a replacement anyway. Anyhoo, even the short warm-up excursion immediately revealed a difference: the engine is a lot more zippy now It's not a screamer like the Husky of course but at least now the engine doesn't feel like it's filled with treacle. (Hmm, 15W50... not far off!)
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

You may have noticed the dirt on the frame in one of the previous photos. As far as I can tell this has been from the front wheel and the inadequate mudguard. Royal Enfield sell a proper bolt-on extension "mudflap" which is strangely expensive to buy from India but cheap as chips from Hitchcocks I ordered both the front and back ones at the same time which gave me the opportunity to order some replacement front spokes...

These are the problem items:

https://i.imgur.com/RdOlKBG.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/yKDbaFG.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/pgG6ZM0.jpeg

And in a classic case of overthinking it I considered whether to take the wheel to a garage to get the tyre off or do it myself. Erm... these are straight spokes, why the fuck to I need the tyre off? Just unscrew them...

Except they're no longer straight spokes:

https://i.imgur.com/8YKvKlU.jpeg

Oh dear. BFI* to the rescue!

https://i.imgur.com/FvuPWaY.jpeg

The first two new ones were easy enough to slide in but the third has to pass by the brake disk. Luckily it almost cleared so I just unbolted things and didn't bother removing the wheel:

https://i.imgur.com/klwRao4.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/5omLl26.jpeg

May as well take a better look at the pads while I'm about it:

https://i.imgur.com/ux8BSFL.jpeg

Right on the edge of an MoT advisory IMO but I resolved to change them fairly soon anyway.

*Brute Force & Ignorance
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[blurredman]

There's loads left on those pads. 1mm minimum for MOT for bikes.
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k.

[to v or not to v]

how about some bling for the beast...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167434591119?

the colour should go quite well with the rest of the bike.
____________________
current bike Yamaha Thunderace.
Moto Guzzi V7.

[sickpup]

Those pads are fine.
The cut out in the material should stop below the backing. As long as the cut out can be seen, the pads are good to go, or stop.

[Easy-X]

Next GT project: more idiocy I've got a wiring loom and TCI unit from the Classic 350/500 UCE bikes. The aim is to rewire the bike to drop the semi-redundant ECU and simplify everything.

It seems in Europe we all got EFI Royal Enfields starting in 2008, but in India they carried on with carbs for a few more years. So say it was 2010 and you were in Delhi, you could choose to buy a 500 with either carb or EFI. AFAIK the GT 535 was never sold with a carb, but it's pretty much the same engine.

I have spent the evening scrutinising and comparing various wiring diagrams and the good news: RE are even less imaginative than the Chinese The iron barrel wiring is 99% the same as this UCE loom which in turn is maybe 80% the same as the GT. Almost all the wiring colours are the same as well, which is nice.

As far as I can tell, the only thing the GT doesn't have is an ammeter. Spending £10 to ship one from India isn't a problem, where to eventually fit it might be Yes, you can bypass them but I shall endeavour to make it work somehow.

There are some features on the GT this new loom is missing. For starters, both the speedo and rev counter are electronic so I'll have to augment the loom. There's the side stand switch that used to cut pump and injector power which maybe could be incorporated into the neutral/clutch starter cut-out system but that's not essential. What I'm unsure about is the ignition pickup...

AFAIK people started converting EFI 500s using the iron barrel components and they tended to refit the older magneto, pickup and TCI. As I'm using parts from what is essentially a carb'd version of the same engine I'm hoping this step is unnecessary

The next step will be to appraise the connector compatibility with the GT. I suspect I'll have to make some adapters up - especially for the clocks - and there's very little space behind the headlamp compared to the cavernous cask on the 500s After that I'll try wiring up just the ignition circuit and see if I get spark.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Well! Looking at the bike it could barely be any better

Almost everything between the looms is identical bar the following:

* While both looms have a single pin connector for signal ground the GT one is a bit bigger. Same deal with the +12V pickup from the starter relay. I'll replace the connectors on the new loom to match the GT.

* On the GT the regulator is at the back of the bike and the magneto connects straight to it, +12V is then passed to the loom. It seems the Classic 350/500 route the 3 phases up the loom to the front of the bike. I'll keep the regulator as it is and loop a bypass on the new loom's regulator connector.

* The GT clocks have 2 connectors. An older style 9-pin which exactly matches the Classics for function but the order is different - just needs a re-pin. The newer style 6-pin sealed connector has all the new functions of the GT not present on the Classics: fuel, speed and rev sensors. At most I'll need to run four extra wires to the back of the bike, given the speed sensor comes off the front wheel.

* The new loom requires a small H4 harness for the headlamp that's not present on the GT. Hitchcocks do make one but it's missing DRL so I'll make my own.

And that's it! Everything else is exactly the same: brake light switches, rear lights, handlebar switches, etc. Same connectors, same wiring. Worst case scenario, some of them need extension cables. Bonus items left over: side stand switch, engine temperature sensor, a multitude of relays and a bank of fuses.

Now to wait for the ammeter from India and the assortment of connectors I've just ordered from AliExpress
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

The experiment continues. If you've missed the news: our government (and the previous one) are c*nts so the old pictures won't appear in the UK. Everyone else will see them and run BCF through a VPN with a non-UK endpoint will make them magically reappear. Anyhoo...

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/20251011_122321.jpg

I hooked up the replacement loom in the minimum number of places to operate. At the front I connected the right hand switch (kill switch and starter buttons) ignition switch, clutch switch (to bypass needing to connect the neutral) and left the clocks and lighting disconnected. The coil is under the tank and a bit awkward to get to so instead I used an old one from the junk pile and a spare plug. At the back I hooked up the crank pickup coil (trigger for TCI box) along with the main battery to loom connections. Rear lighting and magneto/regulator connections left disconnected. Phew! After all that I hooked up the cute little ammeter and TCI box, all set...

And turning it over got me some spark, yay!!! Checking things over there's a deflection on the ammeter, as expected, when turning the engine over and it won't start unless the clutch is pulled in and the kill switch is on "run". I have a few more things to tidy up in the wiring at the back end before trying to fire up the engine but it all looks good so far.

Again, why? Well, consider this new loom will run the bike just through switches, two fuses, a TCI box and no relays other than the flasher. Simple, minimalist, less to go wrong - I can pretty much hold the whole wiring arrangement in my head Going in the bin will be three relays and the ECU. The tip-over sensor is redundant with a carb and the only thing left disconnected will be the side stand switch.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Damn, put a pin it for now. I was looking for more connectors and "no, let's fire it up before buying more stuff." So this time I used the coil on the bike but that meant a bit of a stretch on the cabling.

First it wouldn't turn over because I forgot to connect the clutch switch then I realised the ignition wasn't connected. Turned over and over and over. Best I could manage was a slight cough... I think.

"Fuck it, put the original wiring back." And that wouldn't start either Then I realised I forgot to connect the cam pickup coil and it started right up

Given there is spark, is fuel, etc. and the old EFI system works I can only surmise timing as in past 90 degrees out in timing. TBH I was starting to get a bit emotional with it all so when I calm down I might look at what magneto/pickup arrangement the Indian bikes had, possibly a matching rotor too.
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

From memory, there are several trigger "bumps" on the rotor of different sizes on the EFI models to trigger the sensor. Presumably so the EFI system knows exactly where the crank is. I presume this is your crank position sensor.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/571062-1200.jpg

There's a single larger "bump" on the rotor on the non EFI ones with a single sensor. As such, it could be triggering several sparks per rotation.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/502037-1200.jpg

The sensor externally looks pretty much like the same thing on pictures of both. I'm guessing just a straight-up hall effect sensor.

Thinking aloud, I wonder if you could file off the extra bumps. Assuming one of them is in the right place and you can decide which you want to keep.

Or potentially keep the biggest "bump" then dial in the ignition timing by positioning the rotor on the taper without the key in. Once you're happy with it, file a new keyway on the rotor in the appropriate place. Or leaver it keyless, there are plenty of bikes without a key on the rotor (pretty much every electrex ignition system for one). A good taper fit SHOULD hold it solid although there's a non-zero risk of it spinning up.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

Here's a clue: in the wiring diagram it shows the sensor up against a sort of cog marked "24T". One might think that represents the 24 coils of the stator but there are also 24 of these "nubs"

I notice one nub slightly larger than the rest which follows the same pattern for crank position sensors I've seen on cars, e.g. 1 long indexing pulse, 23 small pulses therefore an ECU can calculate the exact position of the crank (to +/- 15 degrees accuracy).

Looking at all the stators, they're probably all the same thing for decades but with different terminating connectors. I suspect the pickup coil hasn't changed either. It might indeed be that I only need to swap the rotor. I'd lay money on it not even needing clocking, considering where the slot is positioned in both those photos. However...

The rev counter runs directly off the pickup coil therefore it would be expecting 24 pulses per revolution. The Indian Classics don't have a rev counter so not a problem for them. And a generic rev counter wouldn't have all the indicator lights.

Well thank you, Mr. Stinkwheel. I'm now much informed and also much in a huff
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

The pickup will just be a straight-up hall effect sensor. Produces a voltage spike when a moving piece of metal (I presume it has to be magetic but not necessarily magnetised) passes it. On the EFI system it'll produce a specific waveform the computer can interpret. On a CDI system, it'll just act as a trigger voltage for a semioconductor to discharge the capacitor and pulse a spark.

If you're interested, this is the output of the hall effect sensor on the CDI system I fitted to my Minsk (which has a single tab on the rotor).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AP1GczMJ_lp1usj_JkAofdYUcfVP6eNeBPlXhuGYTdpOd1051MdcJNru-_72lJn4wDcFhXPNlSBin1EO5XN8Nn0yBv-EPnvlmWu187ypUZfm9xq2NMRPsoI4anfJwfTnpT8W8TmARIN6aVCl5MTZbYfQU6yu=w1669-h939-s-no

EDIT: Re the rotors, I'd almost put money on them being the same, they are probably cast with a complete ring round them then the "tabs" produced by machining off specific parts of it.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

I'm fond of the idea of simplifying the bike over the usually route of "moar powa, baby!". Losing something like the side stand switch is nothing, losing the rev counter is a deal breaker - I find it quite useful and it fits with the neo-café racer aesthetic

In theory I could come up with some 1:24 or 24:1 pulse converter but that defeats the whole point of keeping it simple. That being said, while I've heard of people converting EFI 500s to TCI I'm not sure anyone's done a 535. It's bad news when you type "GT535 EFI to TCI conversion" into google and this very thread turns up A frequency multiplier (24x) would probably be the best method along with using the single pulse rotor. If the gubbins fails, the rev counter stops working - no biggie - rather than the engine cutting out.

I keep forgetting the oscilloscope function on my multimeter Worth seeing what sort of output there is from the pickup coil. In the mean time I have an idea to utilise the redundant temperature sensor on the engine...
____________________
Royal Enfield Continental GT 535, Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[stinkwheel]

Be interesting to see what pulse count the rev counter is actually receiving. Is it taking 24 pulses/rev or is it taking one pulse/rev from the ignition part of the affair?

The latter seems more likely and usual.

Be easy to check if you have a 'scope.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.