 Wqah L Plate Warrior
Joined: 24 Oct 2025 Karma : 
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 to v or not to v World Chat Champion

Joined: 24 Nov 2020 Karma :   
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 stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist

Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :    
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 Posted: 08:01 - 25 Oct 2025 Post subject: |
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I would go for the most motorbike shaped motorbike you can. If you asked a 5 year old to draw a motorbike, that's what you want.
You don't say how big you are or what sort of budget you're working with.
If I was going used, I'd probably go Japanese. Condition is more important than mileage or age. They will have been owned and maintained by 17 year olds who have funny ideas about what's important. Stay away from ones which have been messed with, especially "tuned" or if anyone's been at the wiring. The "sportier" the model, the more likely it has been thrashed or messed with.
The ideal would be if you can find a bike that's been owned by someone middle aged. One of the "dull" models, you sometimes see one that's been used as a shuttle bike on a big camper van when people go and do big euro tours. These are often in really good nick.
If I was picking a 125 to learn on for a friend, I'd be looking for a clean CG125. There are also the Honda Innovas, these are great BUT with a semi-auto gearbox, you wont be learning clutch control for progression to a bigger bike.
New, I'd at least consider Chinese, they have come on a lot in the last few years. CFmoto are worth a look.
Budget for a really good set of tyres, these are the most important bit for you staying on the road, especially in winter. I personally can't see past Michelin road series. For small bikes, they do a Michelin city extra which is what I have on the wifes wee honda. They are excellent.
Gear wise. Good boots, good gloves. A well fitting helmet. For the rest of the gear, warm and comfortable is as important as safety. Have a look at some of fortnines videos on youtube. If you have the budget, I can highly recommend altberg boots. I like klim gloves for all weather, I like Weisse for summer gloves.
Fit is more important than price with helmets. Get something that fits well and gives you a good field of view.
I personally think there is protective gear and there is waterproof gear. Gear which claims to do both seems to land up doing neither unless you are going very high end. For the vast majority of my riding, I wear a pair of merlin single leayer ballistic jeans and a traditional bellstaff leather biker jacket. I add merino underlayers for warmth. I have a waterproof overlayer for if it rains (currently frog-togs trousers and a Lidl waterproof overjacket).
Training, there's no substitute for experience. Don't overthink initially. My main tip is to look where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid. This is harder than it sounds and takes practice.
The throttle is an analogue control, not a switch.
Your tyres will grip very well in one direction (so acceleration/ braking or cornering), if you ask them to grip in two directions (eg, braking while cornering), you are dividing that grip between the two.
Smooth = fast.
Position yourself to see and be seen. People drive like arseholes when they see L-plates, you are just as entitled to be on the road as everyone else, take your position, don't let people force you to ride in the gutter so they can squeeze past you somewhere it isn't safe to do so.
Ride as if you're invisible to other traffic.
If you get flustered, the classic being stopping at a roundabout, you're in the wrong gear, you've stalled the engine, you can't work out what's going on and now there's some arsehole behind you revving his engine and sounding his horn. Get off the bike, push it to the side and sort it out. You being off the bike signals to people you're having trouble. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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 panrider_uk World Chat Champion

Joined: 23 Sep 2007 Karma :  
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