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| Ayrton |
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Ayrton
World Chat Champion
Joined: 02 Sep 2010
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 Posted: 22:53 - 18 Apr 2026  Post subject: 1954 BSA C11 project |
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A friend asked me the other day if I wanted his grandfathers 1954 BSA C11 for a bit of a project and I just cant say no to getting another bike  I know nothing about old bikes but I have always fancied one for some slow rides around town and since last year I haven't got a road bike anymore.
haven't heard it run yet as I need a battery but apparently it was used last about 5 years ago. Everything on it has some surface rust so the plan is to get it running and then strip it all down for a quick paint, hopefully before the summer ends so I can use it a little.
Bonus is my step dad loves old auto memorabilia and old stuff and is more than happy for me to leave it in his garage which is a win for me as mines full of other bikes Looks pretty good in there I must say.
https://i.ibb.co/M5jMYsG0/bsa.jpg |
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to v or not to v
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| stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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Posted: 08:15 - 19 Apr 2026  Post subject: |
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Pre-unit AND plunger frame, you'll get the full "old brit" experience there.
They are simple to work on BUT very different to Japanese bikes in how they do things so there will be a learing curve. (for example, the forks are a taper fit in the top yoke, you need a pulling tool to fit them). On the plus side, there's bags of room to get at things.
My top tip is to keep track of your fasteners. If you dismantle something, bag and label them or make up a bit of card/pin-board to pit them on as you take them off. There will be at LEAST three different thread systems on it. Engine parts will be Whitworth, cycle parts will be british standard cycle thread. They occasionally throw something odball in there to keep you on your toes. Modern replacements aren't always what they say they are, either due to thread form or head size so if you can keep the original, do-so. You'll need some whitworth spanners. Also some good big screwdrivers for any slot or cross-heads. An old fashioned drill brace with screwdriver bits in is handy for tight casing screws.
If it's been sat for a long time, it might have wet sumped (the oil stays in a tank and is circulated round the crank, over time it can leak down and fill up the crankcase). I'd turn the engine over a LOT before starting. Either with the kickstart or take the plug out, put it in ger and take it for a walk about the place. Wont do any harm if it has but it'll puke oil all over the place and smoke like hell for the first five minutes if it's wet sumped.
When you first start it, take the lid off the oil tank and look in there with a torch, you should see squirts of oil returning from the pump. If it does, you're all gravy.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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| RhynoCZ |
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RhynoCZ
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| Ayrton |
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Ayrton
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Posted: 21:48 - 19 Apr 2026  Post subject: |
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| stinkwheel wrote: | Pre-unit AND plunger frame, you'll get the full "old brit" experience there.
They are simple to work on BUT very different to Japanese bikes in how they do things so there will be a learing curve. (for example, the forks are a taper fit in the top yoke, you need a pulling tool to fit them). On the plus side, there's bags of room to get at things.
My top tip is to keep track of your fasteners. If you dismantle something, bag and label them or make up a bit of card/pin-board to pit them on as you take them off. There will be at LEAST three different thread systems on it. Engine parts will be Whitworth, cycle parts will be british standard cycle thread. They occasionally throw something odball in there to keep you on your toes. Modern replacements aren't always what they say they are, either due to thread form or head size so if you can keep the original, do-so. You'll need some whitworth spanners. Also some good big screwdrivers for any slot or cross-heads. An old fashioned drill brace with screwdriver bits in is handy for tight casing screws.
If it's been sat for a long time, it might have wet sumped (the oil stays in a tank and is circulated round the crank, over time it can leak down and fill up the crankcase). I'd turn the engine over a LOT before starting. Either with the kickstart or take the plug out, put it in ger and take it for a walk about the place. Wont do any harm if it has but it'll puke oil all over the place and smoke like hell for the first five minutes if it's wet sumped.
When you first start it, take the lid off the oil tank and look in there with a torch, you should see squirts of oil returning from the pump. If it does, you're all gravy. |
Thanks some good advice there I think. I have been advised by the BSA C forum guys to take the oil pump off and check if it's seized so that should drain any wet sumped oil out. Hopefully it hasn't seized as I have kicked it over a few times and apparently it might strip the teeth on the drive shaft.
It's definitely a big learning curve for me but that's one of the reasons I bought it. It's super interesting to see how they built things 70 years ago and I spent a bit of time just looking at bits like the plunger suspension
Gave it a quick wash today and pulled the carb off so I clean it this week. The slide was gummed up so definitely a good idea. Also noticed there's lots of loose wires running nowhere, all spliced in with screw terminals. Someone's stuck a secret kill switch under the seat too and I'm not sure
I'm trying my best not to sink money into it too but I think it shouldn't cost much to just tidy it up a little. |
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| blurredman |
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blurredman
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Joined: 18 Sep 2010
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| Posted: 08:28 - 20 Apr 2026 Post subject: |
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Lovely find. I'm excited for your future picture posts.... 
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S, 1979 MZ TS150.
Current: 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 18k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 10k, 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (295cc) - 40k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 51k. |
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