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cleaning out a petrol tank cheap

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SnowTigeress
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PostPosted: 10:15 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: cleaning out a petrol tank cheap Reply with quote

On another forum there was a question on how to clean your petrol tank out

so i just thought id share the method I used to do the corporals,Tef was saying that the corporal tank needed cleaning as the petrol was coming out red,there was a lot of rust inside the tank...he was pondering on what to use....

I said to him, vinger as that would eat away at the rust,as vinger eats away lots of stuff....See I have Good ideas too:P


https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/104_0107.jpg
One bottle of cheap asda`s own vingar
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/104_0108.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/104_0109.jpg
Pour the whole bottle in to the tank and shake it round and then leave it over night shaking every couple of hours


Look at all the rubbish that came out of it yuk
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/104_0110.jpg
https://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x349/snowtigeress/104_0111.jpg

swill it round with water after and then leave to dry

and all for about 50p
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 11:07 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd be surprised if a highly dilute acetic acid solution (vinegar) did anything more than what a quick swill with water would have tbh.
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hellbound
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

drain tank...put some gravel in and rattle it about to break up the rust and repeat until satisfied.
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fiery tupp
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont think it's going to stop the rust on the underside of the tank eating through , which it probably already is doing Neutral
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Paxovasa
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellbound wrote:
drain tank...put some gravel in and rattle it about to break up the rust and repeat until satisfied.


+1

Vinegar Laughing
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cb1rocket
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PostPosted: 11:56 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or the electrolysis method even
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 12:08 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used strong Muraic acid (HCl) on a bad one. It's still sold in some hardware shops as "spirit of salts" for cleaning drains.

You DO need to wear goggles and gloves and you need to keep a careful eye on it because it WILL eat all the way through the tank if you leave it too long.

The old fashioned way though is to put a handful of pebbles in the tank along with some fuel and swill them about inside which physically removes the rust.

A couple of modern updates on that technique include substituting nuts threaded loosely on a bit of string for the pebbles (so they are easy to get back out again) and wrapping the tank in an old blanket then putting it in a cement mixer (saves a lot of tiring shaking and swilling).

EDIT: Chemically, vinegar is a good idea because the iron salt it forms is one of the few that is soluable (Iron Acetate). I reckon on normal dilute vinegar taking quite some time though. The glacial form is somewhat unpleasant to deal with in terms of fumes.
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ms51ves3
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PostPosted: 12:39 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

hellbound wrote:
drain tank...put some gravel in and rattle it about to break up the rust and repeat until satisfied.


Nuts and some string is better as you can actually get it back out.

Paxovasa wrote:
Vinegar Laughing


You laugh, but it does work.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the corporals tank does need stripping & painting on the out-side too....that job got interupted by Donna's dire need to transport! It will get done, but for now, just needed to stop the bludy inline fitler turning red!

She missed the first step which was to rince and slosh repeatedly with warm soapy water. And hell of a lot of friable shit came out on the first few shakes and swills.

And i was pondering the nuts on string idea when she suggested the vinegar.....

Not sure about the loose gravel idea Stink... there was 'something' in the tank she chose to prep for her bike.... it rattled every time we moved it and was infuriating... more so by refusing to come out the filler HOWEVER we shook it! In the end I cut a hole in the bottom of the tank to get it out! Gawd knows what it was, looked like a plastic disk with a bit of metal embedded in it!

Anyhow, she suggested the vinegar, and i remember it having been suggested as an 'old' de-rusting treatment, and we used to have a copper top table that was regularly cleaned with salt & vinegar! So said 'Why not?"

She tipped in a 36p bottle of ASDA's own brand that was on the shelf, and shook it around a bit, left it over night, shook it around a bit more, left it a few hours longer, then rinced it out with water, and all that shit in the bottom of the bath is what came out JUST with the vinegar.

Remember, swilling with water, no more crap was coming out, so thats just what the vinegar has loosened off.

Seems to have done a pretty good job, and 25miles later, the clear inline fuel filter is still yellow, not pink! So got a thumbs up rating from me as a trick that can work!

Certainly cheaper than tank-treatment, and at 36p, and a little shaking and rinsing? What you got to loose?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Far more effective (and more expensive, but hardly breaking the bank) is a gallon of phosphoric acid, about £15 delivered on ebay. Pour that in, then fill to the brim with boiling water. Leave it for a couple of hours, and the tank is spotless with a nice zinc finish.

Does eat rubber, although it doesn't appear to eat plastic. You need to remove the fuel tap and cork or blank off the hole.
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HD
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Won't water just make it rust again inside?
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

HD wrote:
Won't water just make it rust again inside?


Eventually yes, but you can get rid of water anyway.

Water will get into the tank anyway. Tanks are (mostly) simply vented so air will get in and water from that air will condense in the tank. One reason why some people say to store bikes with the petrol tank full.

All the best

Keith
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HD
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PostPosted: 17:03 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
HD wrote:
Won't water just make it rust again inside?


Eventually yes, but you can get rid of water anyway.

Water will get into the tank anyway. Tanks are (mostly) simply vented so air will get in and water from that air will condense in the tank. One reason why some people say to store bikes with the petrol tank full.

All the best

Keith


Ahh, I guess yeah.

Just makes more sense so swill with fuel?

I have only ever cleaned mine once cos I thought I dropped a bit of tissue in there and I did it with fuel. Although it is plastic Laughing
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Trouble with fuel is getting rid of it and spilling it.

I wouldn't worry too much about the water. If having water in there for a few hours is going to rot through the tank then it is about to fail anyway.

If you want to get rid of water then put a bit of methanol in with the petrol. Will absorb the water and will mix with the petrol and be burnt.

As an aside, I would be a bit careful about what is dropped in the tank to loosen rust. Last thing I would want in a tank with petrol vapour in it would be a spark. I wonder if what Teflon found in the tank was one of those things claimed to act as a lead replacement.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:21 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

As an aside, I would be a bit careful about what is dropped in the tank to loosen rust. Last thing I would want in a tank with petrol vapour in it would be a spark.


I think this is a theoretical danger. People have been putting handfuls of stones in their tank to clean out rust for as long as they've been making tanks out of steel. Never heard of one going up.

They'd make the nozzles of petrol pumps out of bronze or plastic if there was any real risk of a spark.

EDIT: Now I come to think on it. I strongly suspect flint and steel wont make a spark if they're soaked in petrol. Just ask anyone who's ever overfilled a zippo lighter.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 17:27 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

They'd make the nozzles of petrol pumps out of bronze or plastic if there was any real risk of a spark.


Not sure I have ever seen one made from steel.

All the best

Keith
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duhawkz
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer using a lenth o chain if i have to clear the inside of a tank as its easier to get out or nuts and bolts at a push as you can pick em out with a magnet if you cant shake them out
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 21:47 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Putting nuts, bolts gravel etc in the tank is a complete waste of fucking time. Just fill it with vinegar & leave it for a day.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Not sure about the loose gravel idea Stink... there was 'something' in the tank she chose to prep for her bike.... it rattled every time we moved it and was infuriating... more so by refusing to come out the filler HOWEVER we shook it! In the end I cut a hole in the bottom of the tank to get it out! Gawd knows what it was, looked like a plastic disk with a bit of metal embedded in it!


DataTag chip, they recommended one in the tank, one in the seat foam and one in each wheel IIRC.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:

Not sure I have ever seen one made from steel.

All the best

Keith


Usually aluminium alloy. Which is in many ways even worse than steel if there are traces of corrosion about on the filler neck.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 22:22 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

They look like it but not sure (plenty of other bits seem to be plated brass from memory).

Why would the oxidation be worse?

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

They look like it but not sure (plenty of other bits seem to be plated brass from memory).

Why would the oxidation be worse?

All the best

Keith


Because if the aluminium smears onto the corroded metal and is then struck (eg, clattering the nozzle), it can cause a microscopic thermite reaction.

Normally takes a high energy to initiate this reaction but the particle sizes involved are tiny and the energy at the exact point of impact can be extremely high on a microscopic level.

The result is a very intense, hot spark. Infrequent but when they happen, they release a lot of energy.

Mind you, most petrol pump fires are caused by static generated from the drivers clothing so one could equally argue that you shouldn't wear a wooly jumper when working on a petrol tank.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Interesting

There was a big recall a few years ago on the BMW Minis due to the fuel filler orifices not having the coating they were meant to have.

All the best

Keith
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:10 - 18 Feb 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

From reading about, it first came to light in coal mines where aluminium fan blades struck the rusty steel safety cage round them.

I remember my Dad telling me years ago that they'd had to contact a load of people who'd bought their sparkproof hoists and send them a brass safety latch to fit on the hook in place of the aluminium one in case it caused a spark when it snapped shut.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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