Plastic welding

[Jrod]

Is this something that you can atttempt yourself? or best left to the professionals?

[mr.z]

You'll have to be a bit more specific depends on what kind of plastic, what equipment you have and what your welding together (also how much stress it will be under)

I know many have had successfull results, ive done some before with cable ties and a lighter, didn't look nice but worked fine...
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[Frost]

It is plastic dependant. some can be done yourself no problem, others are a right bastard to do. Either way its a simple job for a pro and they are likely to have all the tools and be capable of a much better job than you.

Unless you have expirence and know what your doing, get a pro to do it.

[Jrod]

Umm, I dont really know what plastic it is, it's the front fairing off a ZXR400, I don't have any proper equipment. Just wondered if it's something you can bodge?

[mr.z]

If its stuff like the underneeth of a sidepanel that can't be seen (or can be stealth welded ) then you can make a messy job and not really care...

If it needs to look presentable and your not ready for it let somebody else do it
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[Hex]

As said if its not going to be in view, try using a soldering iron and zip ties.

Never had to do this myself but I guess it should be easy enough, as to how strong the end product will be is anyones guess.
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[Demonic69]

Halfords have a decent fairing repair kit you might wanna try.
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[goony]

https://www.bikemedic-kent.co.uk/graphical/index.htm

[DynaMight]

Like I said in the other thead, I did mine. Mostly out of boredom then anything and because I couldnt find a replacement one anywhere. I took it to a professional repairer/painter for them to check the welds (Well let them try to break them) the main ones were ok but one wasnt strong enough so snapped, But thats because on that weld I didnt remove all the paint from both sides which creates air bubbles... If your on a tight budget try it

I just used a 25w soldering iron and some sand paper.

[Jrod]

Right, I gave it a go. Look amazing, you can't see the join from the front at all. I banged it quite a bit to see how strong it was and it hasn't cracked at all. good stuff.

[mchaggis]

Before and after pics I think are required! Inside and outside?
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[Rory]

I did a great deal of fairing repair after I last chucked the bike through a hedge. I was able to replace missing chunks, weld cracks and rebuild lugs. Time, patience, spare plastic and a soldering iron can work wonders!

Tip: the leftover sprue from a plastic model kit makes great welding rods.
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[craigie b]

Is there any online or printed guides to plastic welding as I was thinking about giving it a go but to be entirley truthfull I have no idea where to start!

[mchaggis]

This is made up entirely on the fly as the way in which I would probably do fairing plastic welding if I needed to. If it's wrong, pipe up!

Get the plastic as clean as possible and free from any contaminants, paint or anything, by sanding down. Tape the plastics up on the outside, with the crack faces exactly mated, so there isn't any step or any difference between the two sides.

Using a hot tool (soldering iron or otherwise) melt the plastic rod* into and over the crack, slightly melting the fairing plastic in the process so that the two plastics mix slightly. Leave to cool and set solid. Once properly set, take the tape off and test your welds, sand smooth both sides with wet and dry, autosol or whatever, before painting.

As was stated before, sprues from plastic model kits would do for the rod of plastic to be melted. It's possible that you may need to chamfer the inside edges of the crack so that the plastic can get down the groove properly. Expoxy resin and vulcanising cement may also be options. Araldite and good old superglue might do a decent job as well.

Any thoughts on my made up method?
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Mmmm, Guinness
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[Rory]

When I was soldering cracks, I would run the soldering iron right up the back of the crack i.e. inside of the fairing. Then I would repeat using extra plastic. You actually need to melt the plastic quite a bit to make sure it's properly melted together or it'll break again.

If you've got bits which have snapped off to re-attach (chunks, lugs), you can pin the bits together for strength. I used a 1mm drill bit and a pin vise (very small hand operated drill), both available from modelling shops. Drill holes in the parts to be pinned, and use lengths of wire as pins. I used lengths of paperclip. Glue the pins into the holes in each piece to be attached. Then you can weld the join to finish the job.

Note, that soldering irons and superglue make for a really stinky, acrid smoke! Not that the melted plastic is much better, but still...
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