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Dynoing on the rollers?

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binge
Emo Kiddy



Joined: 03 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 29 Nov 2004    Post subject: Dynoing on the rollers? Reply with quote

My speedfight should be ready by tomorrow but Ive been wanting it setting up again professionally for a while... Would taking it to be dynod on the rollers encourage it to blow up again?
I just want some first hand advice on scooters which have been tuned like that and what their experience was. Thanks...

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 23:30 - 29 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

2 stroke + dyno = bang
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Keith
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PostPosted: 23:42 - 29 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct me if I'm wrong, but hasnt your scoot just had a complete rebuild and new top end?

If so, It'll obviously need running in first, unless you feel like seizing it. Confused

I have seen videos of 2 smokes on the dyno and they didnt sound like they enjoyed it very much! Laughing

You should get some advice on scooter forums, buy a handful of main jets and just a process of trial and error IMO.

Get in contact with John at www.moped-spares.co.uk and he might be able to point you in the right direction. Thumbs Up
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 23:45 - 29 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, just had a complete rebuild...
I have a feeling that the carb not been set up great helped the engine towards death row Confused
Thats why I want it setting up properly...
I suppose it dosent "Need" to be dynod, just the carb setting up correctly...

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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 00:07 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had my speedfight 100 set up on Taffspeed's dyno. Its the best way of setting up the carburation from tickover to full throttle, as you cant ride the bike constantly at different throttle opening as well as look at an AFR monitor. It might take 1-2hours of dyno time to set up, but they will do everything, like set up the clutch and fit the best compromise rollers for the whole speedrange. My SF100 went from 9.4bhp with all the bits i had fitted at home, up to 10.6bhp after being set up on the dyno. i think you might be able to get the main jet close by riding and testing the bike, but to get the pilot, needle, and needle jet functions set up perfectly for faultless carburation, a dyno set up is a must. Ask Divuk83 he can probably find you a dyno graph of someone with a dragster172 thats a before and after a dyno set up be a proper tuner.
there's no reason why a 2stroke should blow up on they dyno, if its tuned correctly!
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 00:16 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, Ive seen the dyno graph of the wacky racers dragster... Its somthing like 27bhp...

Ive got a malossi clutch what I really dont like because its a race clutch and it doesnt engage until the scooter is reving at about 7k Shocked ...
Its horrible because when it does ingage, the scooter takes off at about 20mph...

I dont want it tuning to "Go faster", I just want it setting up so it rides smoothly again, and also so I KNOW that the carb settings are correct. Because I really dont think they are as my plug is always sooted up!

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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 00:38 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude run it in first, then run it in some more before doing a dyno run.
Go over the recommended run in miles as it's going to get caned at a dyno.
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 01:15 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, 500 miles is about the right running in distance right?
So ill do about 800 miles (about a month)

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 05:42 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:

there's no reason why a 2stroke should blow up on they dyno, if its tuned correctly!


There's a very good reason why 2 strokes often blow up on dyno's.

On a four stroke as long as the engine is turning the oil pump works to the required capacity. On most 2 strokes the oil pump is linked to the throttle and the engine. Come off the throttle and the oil pump is not working to full capacity and due to the fact that even with a fan you have relatively little air flow past the engine so less cooling your 2 stroke goes bang. Remember a dyno has a nice big one ton wheel you have to turn and then you have to stop it, not easy when you have no engine braking and want to keep your rear brake in one piece. Not all dyno's have inertia brakes.

The answer to this is run pre=mix when using a 2 stroke on a dyno but then your bike will appear less powerful.

Now shall we discuss physics? maybe how when your bike is moving the air pressure outside your air box is at a lower pressure than that inside. The effect of this is that when you tune a bike on a dyno to perfection you take it out for a ride and it runs a little rich. Now most dyno operators set the bike to run slightly rich anyway for safeties sake. Work it out.

A dyno is a diagnostic tool and nothing else. Your bike may run perfectly on a dyno but that doesn't mean it will run perfectly on the road.
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divuk83
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PostPosted: 09:55 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:

The answer to this is run pre=mix when using a 2 stroke on a dyno but then your bike will appear less powerful.

A dyno is a diagnostic tool and nothing else. Your bike may run perfectly on a dyno but that doesn't mean it will run perfectly on the road.


Pre mix is no safer on the Dyno as when you shut the throttle off the oil flow stops, where as with an oil pump it would keep going. As long as you run the bike down properly it shouldn't be a problem though.

I have dynoed loads of my cylinders from new. They have all been nicosil lined 172/185 cylinders. I have had a few that have been great on the dyno, but the compression was to high for the road and subsequently the rings went 4 miles down the road!

I don't really see a problem with dynoing water-cooled nicosil cylinders from new. They are very strong and well cooled. The only thing not to do is run them on to max speed. When the power starts to tail off then its time to stop. Max speed runs are stupid and are the best way to blow them up.

I reckon you should go for it. Get it on a dyno. Back when mine was a 125 I gained 2hp from changing the jetting. I will post the chart tomorrow as my bandwidth has gone over for the month on my site. Doh!

Dave

edit: good old image shack!

https://img107.exs.cx/img107/1464/dynorunaug03.jpg
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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 18:01 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good 2T oil as well Thumbs Up
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cagiva gezzer
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PostPosted: 18:16 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Had my 50&125 set up on the dyno. As long as the person using it knows how to use it, it should be fine. I would rather know that my jetting is spot on and risk the very slight chance that the dyno will push the engine over the edge, than guess using a plug chop.

+Dynos are fun! Hearing your ickle engine having the life screwed out of it!
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 20:08 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

The other problem with dynoing a 2 stroke is that most of them run slide carbs. If you just give these full throttle (which you would do with a CV carbed bike) then the only thing that is affecting the mixture is the main jet. Basically you need someone who knows what they are doing so sort the jetting out on different throttle openings.

The other problem is that 2 strokes tend to be more prone to spectacular failure when thrashed from cold, and few dyno sessions are going to be long enough to get it up to temperature before each run.

All the best

Keith
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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 21:36 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Hi

The other problem with dynoing a 2 stroke is that most of them run slide carbs. If you just give these full throttle (which you would do with a CV carbed bike) then the only thing that is affecting the mixture is the main jet. Basically you need someone who knows what they are doing so sort the jetting out on different throttle openings.

The other problem is that 2 strokes tend to be more prone to spectacular failure when thrashed from cold, and few dyno sessions are going to be long enough to get it up to temperature before each run.

All the best

Keith

True, my KR-1S had slides and you have to open them up gradually with the speed of the engine. You can't just open them right up as it actually is slower and bogs the engine.
KR-1S is the king of spectacular engine failures and it's all Kawasaki's fault Evil or Very Mad
The piston ring pin was the cause. The rings were made to cover the pin on the recall and later models. One of the most simplest things to fix, most expensive when gone wrong especially if it went into the crank.
Unfortunately the goon who had mine before me didn't take it back to the recall.
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binge
Emo Kiddy



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PostPosted: 21:53 - 30 Nov 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, Ok. Razz I might skip the Dyno...

Quote:
Now shall we discuss physics? maybe how when your bike is moving the air pressure outside your air box is at a lower pressure than that inside. The effect of this is that when you tune a bike on a dyno to perfection you take it out for a ride and it runs a little rich

My scooter dosent have an air box, its got K&N on it.

Quote:
even with a fan you have relatively little air flow past the engine so less cooling your 2 stroke goes bang.

My scooter is Liquid cooled and it works well too Wink

Ok not so much dynoing now, But I defonatly need my carb setting up cos the prev owner just went and bought a 21mm carb and stuck it on, Adjusted the air until it was running and then left it...

I have no clue how to change my jets. I can adjust and probably change the main jet as ive taken my carb apart to clean it before.
But I have no way of telling how well tuned it is?

Its not so much the performance of the bike im after, its the reliability...

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sickpup
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PostPosted: 03:01 - 02 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

binge wrote:

My scooter dosent have an air box, its got K&N on it.
<|Binge|>


So the entire dyno room acts as an airbox giving a false reading.


binge wrote:
My scooter is Liquid cooled and it works well too Wink <|Binge|>


The liquid is cooled by the air.

Sorry I meant run the premix with the oil pump so it over-oils and protects the engine while the roller slows down.
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Kickstart
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PostPosted: 11:28 - 02 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
Sorry I meant run the premix with the oil pump so it over-oils and protects the engine while the roller slows down.


Which makes any jetting changes fairly inaccurate as the oil added to the petrol will lean out the mixture (possibly causing it to run lean on the dyno as well).

All the best

Keith
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 02 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes your right. As I said 2 stroke + dyno = bang.
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divuk83
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PostPosted: 19:43 - 02 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

All this stuff is only a problem if your at a crappy garage who don't know what there doing. Take your bike to somewhere like Chiselspeed, PSN or Taffspeed or any of the other 2stroke or scooter specialists and you won't have any problems.

Dave
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 03:18 - 03 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes I am sure they have never had a bike blow on there dyno.
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divuk83
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 03 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few have gone pop, buts its pretty rare.

Dave
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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 17:16 - 03 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two stroke racing bikes are more highly strung than most of what we own. Yet they seem to do it ok.
I think it's a bit of a myth as I've heard of 4 strokes go bang too.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 19:42 - 03 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fortuna wrote:
I've heard of 4 strokes go bang too.


I've been in a Dyno-room when a GSXR1100N has blown a rod through a crankcase. I don't recommend dyno's at all, they expose any weakness in an engine which often means they go bang.
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mchaggis
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PostPosted: 19:54 - 03 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

They rag the engines before they let them out of the factory anyway though, to make sure there aren't any duff ones. Have heard a story from a lecturer about a diesel engine piston exiting the crankcase at very high speed during this testing.
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Fortuna
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PostPosted: 19:55 - 03 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had no choice with the amount of tuning my R1 had. Plus it had to be re jetted.
I would rather get it dyno'd and running right or the very low chance it goes bang.
Ironically if I didn't have a dyno run it would have blown up eventually through not running correctly.


Last edited by Fortuna on 19:59 - 03 Dec 2004; edited 1 time in total
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