Renthal style scooter bars...

[binge]

Right. Im well chuffed. Ive just bought a set of Downhill bars and a stem bracket for my moped from Halfrauds and they are designed for a push bike...

The stem Fits perfet onto my moped forks and the switch gears and grips fit perfect onto the bars. Also Ive fitted a Digital speedo...
A couple of little things I want to know tho...

Will it pass an MOT because I was told that the steam needs to be welded to the bars?
How do I go about fitting a fuel light or gague
And whats the score with fitting a tempertature light. Can I just wire my thermstat up to a LED which requires certain voltage to light so when the bike is too hot, the bulb lights?

<|Binge|>

[binge]

Sombody must know
Oh, got a problem with the Speedo, It only reads up to 62mph then goes bonkers...

<|Binge|>

[stinkwheel]

Your digital speedo, the sensor is probably too far away from the magnet. You might need a stronger magnet if you can't get it closer, there are usually some rediculously strong button magnets for sale on ebay.

Fuel indicator, depends if the bike has a fuel guage normally, if it doesn't, there will be no sensor in the tank which would make it tricky. In my experience, they aren't all that usefull on bikes anyway (especially scooters), the fuel slops about too much. My cub 90 would read as full if facing uphill and empty if facing downhill.

Temperature. If the bike usually has a temperature guage, you will need to use a guage as it is a thermocouple whos resistance varies with temperature. If it normally has a light, then the sensor is usually a bimetallic switch which closes at a certain temperature (like a central heating thermostat) and allows current to flow through it in which case you could use an LED.

I am not certain, but normal motorbikes use a clamp to hold the bars on, I don't see why it should be any different to a moped providing it is nice and secure. I doubt an MOT tester could tell if the bars are off a pushbike by looking at them.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

[binge]

Haha, No it doesnt lie ...
My speedfight is an extremely fast moped weather you believe it or not, I know it is capable of 60mph+ because ive been clocked by various big bikes and cars...

Sorted out the speedo, It reads good now, I moved the sensor closer to the passing magnet....

Thermostat... It used to have a temp gague but it broke ages ago and hasnt had one since. Ive not had a problem with over heating so im guessing that the engine cooling system dosent work off the thermostat...

Fuel gague... Its got a float and it is pretty accurate and usefull... Ive got the 2 wires leading from the float resistor to the front of the bike (through the origional wireing loom) Is it hard to fit a universal fuel gague to the existing wires?

Apart from that its all good. And im impressed with the bars as they are secure and the scooter handles a hell of a lot better with them on...

<|Binge|>

[binge]

heres some pics of the new bars!

[mchaggis]

They actually look pretty cool in an odd kind of a way, now all you need is a bell.
____________________
I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[stinkwheel]

you might be able to find a fan switch that would fit where your current sensor is if you can get one that switches at the right temperature and has the right thread. Otherwise you would be looking at making an electronic comparator circuit to switch the light on at the correct resistance. I used to know how to do this but it is nearly 10 years since I did higher tecchy.

An LED might also work in the centre of a wheatstone bridge type circuit as the need very little current to light them up, you would need to know at what resistance the current temperature sensor reaches the 'overheat' level to work this out properly. That is purely speculation as I have never tried it, it would certainly be more reliable and simpler than using op-amps/transistors.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[stinkwheel]

I am pretty sure you will need flashers on it for your MOT. Maybe I couldn't see them?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[binge]

So probably not worth the bother then.

Maybe after Xmas ill treat myself a sensor kit which goes in the bleed nipple on the engine...

[Rob W]

Just out of interest, how much money have you spent on that bike?
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TS50 > Senda 125 > ZXR400 > CB-1 > GSX-R1000 > Bandit 600 > ZXR750 H1 > GSX-R750 SRAD > '98 RR-W Fireblade > T595 Daytona > Hornet 900 > '04 Fireblade > GSX-S1000F (x2) > '23 XSR900

[paulodd]

i wondered where my push bike handle bars had gone. Looks very good! and very unique. ooooo get one of those horns where you squeeze it and it plays that cool tune!

Paul
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Paul
1999 Yamaha R6
www.coventrybikers.co.uk / www.norfolkriders.co.uk

[mrchips]

It looks well. What is its true power output if you know? BHP, Top Speed, 0-60 and all that.
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Northern Irish? www.nibikers.com

[Rob W]

I'm guessing 2.4bhp, 33mph and 22.4


____________________
TS50 > Senda 125 > ZXR400 > CB-1 > GSX-R1000 > Bandit 600 > ZXR750 H1 > GSX-R750 SRAD > '98 RR-W Fireblade > T595 Daytona > Hornet 900 > '04 Fireblade > GSX-S1000F (x2) > '23 XSR900