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Headlights, better-uns?

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mr.z
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Joined: 04 Feb 2004
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PostPosted: 01:01 - 21 Dec 2004    Post subject: Headlights, better-uns? Reply with quote

As some of the more astute of you may have noticed its winter.. and its dark!

Theres allot of companys makeing ultra mega bright bulbs, some legal, some a bit less legal..

I've heared that the phillips bulbs are pretty good...

Anyone tryed them? will be worth a try before geting some smaller driveing lights... (anyone know of any decent priced small driveing lights?)
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aqualung1
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 15 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:28 - 22 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ride did a survey last year, philips not the best very odd

more important to keep lenses clean modern bikes 100% better than old
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K!K @
Nova Slayer



Joined: 22 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 01:45 - 22 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just buy a new normal bulb form your local dealer but buy one with a bigger wattage.
Just as good and costs less.
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Jrod
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Joined: 02 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 03:33 - 22 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you increase the wattage you could potentionally overload the wiring and set the bike on fire. Neutral
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meyrick
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Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 17:05 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zxr400er wrote:
If you increase the wattage you could potentionally overload the wiring and set the bike on fire. Neutral


Would it not have fuses to stop that from happening? Seems like pretty basic safety wiring to me, especially on a device full of flamable liquid.

Paul Smile
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 17:07 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

meyrick wrote:
Zxr400er wrote:
If you increase the wattage you could potentionally overload the wiring and set the bike on fire. Neutral


Would it not have fuses to stop that from happening? Seems like pretty basic safety wiring to me, especially on a device full of flammable liquid.

Paul Smile


The whole point of a fuse is to provide a safety "cut off" to stop the current exceeding the rating of the insulation of the cable. So I would have thought so. Thumbs Up
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having said that, the actual lamp holder may have a maximum Wattage rating.
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MAYHEM4
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 17:11 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: 1 Reply with quote

Have any of you heard of HID lights...........High Intensity Discharge..................for bikes...
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mr.z
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PostPosted: 17:22 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

meyrick wrote:

Would it not have fuses to stop that from happening? Seems like pretty basic safety wiring to me, especially on a device full of flamable liquid.


Even if they do, having the main fuse go while your rideing arorund a corner on a dark winters night is not good!

Yep i'd got an "uprated" wireing diagram ready, complete with higher rated wireing (23amp) and relays... but for now, i'd rather not bucher my electrics Very Happy i'll do it when i can properly and put in a fuse/relay junction box (for the many other goodies going on)

Acually, while im here, if it was in a state where it will cope with 20amps, when i put the standard bulbs back in would it loose any significant power? i'm guessing not but just though i'd ask..
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: Re: 1 Reply with quote

MAYHEM4 wrote:
Have any of you heard of HID lights...........High Intensity Discharge..................for bikes...
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Yes, but quite a bit more expensive unfortunatley Sad.
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MAYHEM4
Derestricted Danger



Joined: 23 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 23 Dec 2004    Post subject: hid Reply with quote

Yes, but HID is the way to go if you want bright lights.....
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stinkwheel
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Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:38 - 24 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

True Blue wrote:
The whole point of a fuse is to provide a safety "cut off" to stop the current exceeding the rating of the insulation of the cable. So I would have thought so. Thumbs Up


In practice this doesn't always happen. As anyone who has had a main fuse blow due to a short will tell you. Especially with the ceramic fuses they fit on bikes which take too long to blow. I have seen a fuse holder metled into a twisted mess and the insulation scorched on several occasions.

If my drunken electronics node is working, in theory a 15A fuse should allow a maximum of 180W or thereabouts. A 10A fuse = 120W tops (remember the taillight is in there too)

Someone check my maths as I am well pished!
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 24 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:

In practice this doesn't always happen. As anyone who has had a main fuse blow due to a short will tell you.


Changing the lamp to a higher rating will have no bearing on whether the bike could develop a short or other wiring fault though. Thumbs Up Wink

If the cable was to melt due to too much current then the fuse or cable is faulty or incorrect.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 24 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

True Blue wrote:

Changing the lamp to a higher rating will have no bearing on whether the bike could develop a short or other wiring fault though. Thumbs Up Wink


Agreed.

Quote:
If the cable was to melt due to too much current then the fuse or cable is faulty or incorrect.


I was using a short as the absolute example of too much current. I can tell you for a fact that standard bike wiring WILL melt in the time it takes a ceramic fuse to blow. Blade fuses are a bit quicker to blow. I converted all my ceramic fuses to blades on the basis that I can buy blades at any petrol station.
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True Blue
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 24 Dec 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
I can tell you for a fact that standard bike wiring WILL melt in the time it takes a ceramic fuse to blow


No point having a fuse then, cause it's purpose is to prevent that happening Confused
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