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Rewire the lights? Bad idea?

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meyrick
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Rewire the lights? Bad idea? Reply with quote

Just a quick hypothetical...and we're talking about the CB125T. Given the shoddy performance of my headlight on a recent ride it occured to me that the coverage would be much better if the low beam stayed on with the high beam. Sort of a twin beam arrangement, like when you press the flasher button with the high beam on, only permanent.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't rewire the switches etc. to make this happen? Or would I get more 'value' out of a brighter bulb (assuming one is available for my bike) and if so what sort of surplus electrical power output am I likely to have on such a small bike?

Cheers.

Paul Smile
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Scotsman37
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Aug 2004
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PostPosted: 03:38 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, do try the better bulb first because my pal's phillips bulb is much brighter than the standard ones you normally get with a bike. I can see that because we have the same model of bike but mine has the standard bulb and his has the phillips bulb!
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G
The Voice of Reason



Joined: 02 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 10:51 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

If your bike only uses a single bulb, it may well overheat if you are running both filatments at once all the time.

You will be using twice the power or so anyway, so if your bike can take that you might as well just get a brighter bulb in the first place.
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 12:37 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Presume it is a 60/55 bulb. Using both lights at the same time will add an extra 5.5a current drain, which the electrical system might not take. If the headlight reflector is plastic then that might get hot enough to melt. The wiring of the bike might be seriously strained and start to melt.

If you do try it I would suggest wiring it up using a relay with an extra fused feed direct from the battery. This way you will not be putting any extra strain on the wiring.

All the best

Keith
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meyrick
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Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 13:00 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kickstart wrote:
Presume it is a 60/55 bulb.


Meh...it's a 45/40...maybe that's the problem? Laughing

I'll look around for a better bulb.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy yourself a pattern headlamp that takes a halogen bulb and fit it with relays. The CB125 takes a tungsten filament bulb, they are and always have been shite. The charging system should cope with it OK, it is a 3-phase alternator and has the world famous superdream reg/rec unit. Do use relays though as the wiring is not built to take the extra current.

250LC headlamp units are popular and decent, just a simple round headlamp. Pay attention to the wiring if you change it over though (label the connectors before moving them), the inside of those headlamps is like a birds nest.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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meyrick
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Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 21:58 - 30 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Buy yourself a pattern headlamp that takes a halogen bulb and fit it with relays.


Hmmm...I'm assuming then that I couldn't get hold of a halogen bulb and just stick it in the stock lamp holder. I guess that would probably melt the unit and the wiring, eh? Eh?

Now then, I know a fair bit about electronics theory, but nowt about how it relates to cars/bikes. I'm assuming what you mean is that the wiring leading to the headlight unit isn't up to the current draw of a halogen bulb, but the charging circuit/alternator is. So the relays would go where the bulb used to be and the power for the light would come along some new chunky wires I'd have to put in from somewhere else on the bike that could take the current draw. Is that the basic gist? Obviously I will make sure I have the procedure down in more detail before I start buying parts and taking it to bits.

Thanks for the info. Thumbs Up
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Kickstart
The Oracle



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
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PostPosted: 00:01 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="meyrickHmmm...I'm assuming then that I couldn't get hold of a halogen bulb and just stick it in the stock lamp holder. I guess that would probably melt the unit and the wiring, eh? Eh? [/quote]

I have fitted a 60/55 halogen bulb into an Aprilia which was meant to run a 45w tungston bulb. Fitted straight in and never had a problem.

Check and see if you can find a halogen bulb of the same wattage and the same fittings.

A relay not only stops you frying the wiring and switchgear, but also means the bulb gets a supply direct from the battery with a lot less sections where there will be some resistance.

All the best

Keith
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binge
Emo Kiddy



Joined: 02 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 00:06 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a speedfight 2 for about 7 months. It had the twin bulbs on but it was High beam / Low beam.

I used to sort if ballence the switch in the middle so both bulbs were on at once. It looked better and also gave much better lighting.

I had no problems with the electrics, But when I braked or indicated, my lights would dim a bit.

Id say, go for a "Bosch" or a "phillips" pattern bulb, They are VERY bright! Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 01:59 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

meyrick wrote:

Hmmm...I'm assuming then that I couldn't get hold of a halogen bulb and just stick it in the stock lamp holder. I guess that would probably melt the unit and the wiring, eh? Eh?

Now then, I know a fair bit about electronics theory, but nowt about how it relates to cars/bikes. I'm assuming what you mean is that the wiring leading to the headlight unit isn't up to the current draw of a halogen bulb, but the charging circuit/alternator is. So the relays would go where the bulb used to be and the power for the light would come along some new chunky wires I'd have to put in from somewhere else on the bike that could take the current draw. Is that the basic gist? Obviously I will make sure I have the procedure down in more detail before I start buying parts and taking it to bits.

Thanks for the info. Thumbs Up


If you can find a halogen bulb that fits in the existing holder then go ahead Thumbs Up

I was suggesting that the usual H4 halogen bulb is drawing up to and perhaps over 200% of the power of a standard bulb and as such the wires and switches may not be heavy enough to do the job. Running a wire direct from the battery (with an inline fuse) to two relays (one for dip, one for beam) and using the original wiring to trigger the relays ensures this is not a problem.

Depending how much electronics you know, you will certainly be able to work out the current draw of any new bulb you are putting in. You may be able to work out how thick the wire needs to be to carry this current (I could have myself maybe ten years ago). Obviously, if the wire is thick enough you don't need a relay, if you are not sure, safer to use one, it is not a big job.

Joining wires

Here is a (scruffy, my techy teacher would have kicked my ass for having so many wires crossing over) circuit diagram:
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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meyrick
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 15:02 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers guys Thumbs Up

I think I will try to find a halogen bulb first. Maybe do the job properly if and when I have the cash to spare. That diagram looks pretty much like what I had pictured in my head, thanks for that stinkwheel.

EDIT: Oh, BTW, what does 'pattern' mean in this context?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

meyrick wrote:
Oh, BTW, what does 'pattern' mean in this context?


Pattern referrs to a replica part. These can be of varying quality.

I was wondering does yours have a square or round headlamp? If it is a round one, you can get CIBIE sealed beam inserts for them (which replaces the standard lens and reflector), these are the muts nots (although not cheap).
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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meyrick
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 05 Dec 2004
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 31 Jan 2005    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Pattern referrs to a replica part. These can be of varying quality.


Ahhh, I see Thinking

stinkwheel wrote:
does yours have a square or round headlamp?


Meh...square. Sad It's a pain in the arse. I was looking for a windscreen that would cover the handlebars as well and the only ones that were a sane(ish) price were for round headlights. I think it's got to go. Although I am currently violating a pair of acerbis brush guards with aluminium mesh and fibreglass resin to solve the wind chill problem. It passes the time Laughing
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