tight and loose spots in chain

[BLOFLY 636]

Hey all, Just noticed that my chain has now develloped a loose and tight formation. I was out trying to wheelie as instructed by R1-lad! and returned home to check a weird vibration that I could feel in the foot pegs, I lifted the bikes rear with a paddock stand and slipped the bike into neautral. I then checked the chain in all areas for tightness as I rotated the wheel, it appears to be that there is about 10mm of difference between the tightest and loosest spots on the chain. Is this a major problem? what should I do? if I need to replace the chain should I also replace both sprockets? so far the bike has travelled 10,300 km on the same chain and sprokets since new
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Those bloody footpegs......they ought to do away with em!

[mchaggis]

Taking the chain off and thoroughly cleaning it might be a start, mine was rusting stiff, it had stiff links all over the place.

So I removed and cleaned it properly and got most of the links free again. (With pliers and a hammer for some of them ) Then I used copious quantities of 3 in 1 chain lube and it's been fine since (3 weeks ago).

Having a metal workbench is useful to hit it on, and a steel bristled brush isn't a bad thing either, especially for cleaning sprockets and split links.

10k klicks isn't dreadful life for a chain, but it's not great. And you don't even have to contend with British winters!
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I must not be a troll...
Mmmm, Guinness
Discovering the delights of Hammerite and a 3/4" brush.

[bish777]

Soak the chain in WD40 or light penetrating oil-heavy grease will not penetrate the o-rings and get into the rollers. use LOTS. let it soak, then gently work the links until they all move freely. Whilst your at it scrub off all the crap, avoid damaging the orings.

Once the chain is nice and clean, and reinstalled, lube your chain with goo of choice. If you regularly look at your chain, engine oil is good, if you dont chain wax seems to work well enough.

[Kickstart]

Hi

Do not use WD40 as it has a reputation for screwing up the O rings, and once one of those is damaged then the chain is on borrowed time.

If you can take it off and soak it in oil, but doing that with a rivit link chain will mean removing the swinging arm or splitting the chain then reriviting it.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[BLOFLY 636]

oh! I thought that maybe the chain had stretched in some places from me trying to do wheelies I will see if I can remove the chain easily
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Those bloody footpegs......they ought to do away with em!

[BLOFLY 636]

Nope looks like a bugger of a job!, just priced a new X-ring chain $155 Aussie smackaroo's BUT........do I need to also change the front and rear sprockets if I am fitting a new chain?
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Those bloody footpegs......they ought to do away with em!

[Kickstart]

Hi

They do tend to stretch a bit, while other bits seize up. Look at a worn chain and you can see how the pins have changed shape making it longer.

Although you do not have to change the sprockets as well, they will be worn and will increase the rate of wear on the new chain. As such given the cost of a chain compared to some cheap sprockets it is generally worth replacing them as a set.

All the best

Keith
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Traxpics, track day and racing photographs - Bimota Forum - Bike performance / thrust graphs for choosing gearing

[BLOFLY 636]

yep I checked the price it is an extra $80 AUD for a set of front and rear sprockets but I guess if you only do it once do it right
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Those bloody footpegs......they ought to do away with em!